Aiming Masse Shots
- Thread starter mszelis
- Start date
As Pete pointed out, Byrne covers the theory of aiming masse shots in his Advanced Technique book. Beyond that, you need to practice. There are three articles on masse shots atmszelis said:
http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/BD_articles.html
around the end of 1997.
mszelis said:
Yes, as stated, there is a science behind the masse (which Byrne goes over quite well). The point that Jewett and others will make is that no matter how much you read, the masse has a lot to do with personal knowledge. All of the usual factors that are involved in a shot are multiplied 10-fold when the employed spin takes on a verticle plane.
That isn't to say it shouldn't be used. On the contrary, great players and amateurs alike will liberally use masses especially when the situation makes it a reasonable shot. I think, most beginners will look to it sooner than they should because they look cool. If you take a conservative approach, you can find a plethora of situations where you can use a rather inaccurate masse yet achieve fairly consistent results.
for semi-masse (the only masse i use), you have to consider three main things:
1. initial aim point: where is the CB's starting path?
2. 'break' distance: how far will the CB follow the initial path before it bends?
3. 'break' amount: how much will the CB bend when it does?
when i think of the shot in these terms, i have good success.
-s
p.s. the farther the break point, the harder it's gonna be to make it turn much.
1. initial aim point: where is the CB's starting path?
2. 'break' distance: how far will the CB follow the initial path before it bends?
3. 'break' amount: how much will the CB bend when it does?
when i think of the shot in these terms, i have good success.
-s
p.s. the farther the break point, the harder it's gonna be to make it turn much.
Eric Yow's got a couple articles here:
http://www.professorqball.com/archive.php?RecordID=Eric J. Yow
You definitely need to practice and get a feel for what the variables are and how each affect the final shot. Play around with the hit point on the cue ball, cue elevation, and speed of stroke.
http://www.professorqball.com/archive.php?RecordID=Eric J. Yow
You definitely need to practice and get a feel for what the variables are and how each affect the final shot. Play around with the hit point on the cue ball, cue elevation, and speed of stroke.
I try to reduce a masse' to only one variable. If I always use the same elevation and the same contact point on the cue ball, the only variable left is the speed of the stroke. By doing this, I have much better control of how the cue is going to respond. However, I usually look for a kick shot which is usually easier to control. Masse' is my next to last resort.
Steve
Steve
If you get a little more specific with your question, I might have a better answer. If you are asking about half masse then here is a little bit of what I do.
If the ball blocking the shot you mean to hit is in the way by half a ball then you should aim past the outside esge of that double the distance so a full ball outside the balls edge you mean to go around. This is the first thing you should look at. This also gives you a distance you must travel before the curve begins. Knowing this will increase your odds of clearing the ball and also keep the bend to a happy medium. The most popular way to masse a ball is hard but, much more important is accruracy and your stroke is very precise and steady through the cue ball even at soft speeds. I have put some babble about masse on the home page of my website. Adjusting only the angle of the cue and the spot you hit the cue ball is how I do it. Like everyone before me has said practice is the real key to successful masse get a little table and wack away.
I have won the world records in masse so anyone can. If you would like some lessons I do teach masse. I can teach you a great deal about masse/trickshots in a one day lesson. You can also look at my credintials while your are at my site. Either way good luck to you and start buying Sniper tips from Tiger Products now it will save you a bundle.
Jamison
If the ball blocking the shot you mean to hit is in the way by half a ball then you should aim past the outside esge of that double the distance so a full ball outside the balls edge you mean to go around. This is the first thing you should look at. This also gives you a distance you must travel before the curve begins. Knowing this will increase your odds of clearing the ball and also keep the bend to a happy medium. The most popular way to masse a ball is hard but, much more important is accruracy and your stroke is very precise and steady through the cue ball even at soft speeds. I have put some babble about masse on the home page of my website. Adjusting only the angle of the cue and the spot you hit the cue ball is how I do it. Like everyone before me has said practice is the real key to successful masse get a little table and wack away.
I have won the world records in masse so anyone can. If you would like some lessons I do teach masse. I can teach you a great deal about masse/trickshots in a one day lesson. You can also look at my credintials while your are at my site. Either way good luck to you and start buying Sniper tips from Tiger Products now it will save you a bundle.
Jamison
START( %A[3D4%Ea9N1%Ph0V8%US1D0%Vh5W0%W]3G2%Xg9V7%Y[7F0%Zc1]6%[a8D0 %\j0]4%eC1`4%_[8E9%`_6O2%ag5V4 )END
This Wei table diagram shows all the lines that I look at when I shoot this type of shot. The speed is indicated by the line that goes to the top long rail near the two diamond, from the cue ball. This is also the line to aim the cue ball on.
The angle of the cue and amount of spin is up to your stroke, type of tip shaft etc. Everyone and there cues are different so, whatever you read or hear is not exact, they are just good starting points.
I would jack up 20-30% and use right hand spin under normal conditions. Remember this part, after the cue ball bends the right is really high spin. If you use low right spin, then you are fighting the forward motion and making it easier to turn the ball too much. If you use high then you will have a lot more speed than you probably set out to use and the cue ball will travel further down the aiming line before the spin takes and the curve begins.
The real idea on these little ones is to curve it into a roll. If this makes since to you then this babble will have helped you. I hope it did have a good one.
Jamison
This Wei table diagram shows all the lines that I look at when I shoot this type of shot. The speed is indicated by the line that goes to the top long rail near the two diamond, from the cue ball. This is also the line to aim the cue ball on.
The angle of the cue and amount of spin is up to your stroke, type of tip shaft etc. Everyone and there cues are different so, whatever you read or hear is not exact, they are just good starting points.
I would jack up 20-30% and use right hand spin under normal conditions. Remember this part, after the cue ball bends the right is really high spin. If you use low right spin, then you are fighting the forward motion and making it easier to turn the ball too much. If you use high then you will have a lot more speed than you probably set out to use and the cue ball will travel further down the aiming line before the spin takes and the curve begins.
The real idea on these little ones is to curve it into a roll. If this makes since to you then this babble will have helped you. I hope it did have a good one.
Jamison
JamisonNeu said:
Very nice diagram and explanation. Thanks.
I'm sorry, I don't follow you. Do you mean, jack up 20-30 degrees? And what are "normal conditions" that dictate right hand spin? It seems to me that either right or left spin should be used, depending upon the side to which you want to bend the shot.
DonKarmon said:
I was refering to that diagram about the spin of coarse the opposite is the same but, opposite I guess.
Yes, about the degrees I put a percentage symbol before.
Normal conditions: being a broke in table with cloth that has been played on for a while three months or so. Excuse my lack of terminology about this game. You should see where I learned about this game. But, this brings up another useless piece of knowledge about pool. Worn in cloth will grab sooner than new cloth. So on new cloth you may want to jack up a little more or hit the ball softer. Both of these are solutions if you are having trouble getting enough curve.
The speed of the stroke dictates how far the ball travels before it will turn. Along with your best hypothosis at the angle of the cue. Usually the rule is the more verticle the more curve.
Jamison
PS This is really fun I never thought this much about it. It is nice to write down my thoughts about this subject. Thank you very much for asking these questions I am really enjoying this.
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JamisonNeu said:
I think it's dirt that increases the friction, causing spin to grab sooner. Clean worn cloth would be smoother, providing less traction.
Yes, similar to bowling. Watch a bowler's hand when he's putting major spin on the ball - it's 'way out to one side at the start of his delivery. The twist he gives it upon release gets the ball spinning almost perpendicular to its verical axis. Perhaps a bowler could shed light on judging speed and how much spin to apply.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, which inspire more thoughts.
Let us know how it goes.