Aiming, parallel aiming system.

krychekrowe

krychekrowe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This thing made me, actually understand something I was missing in my PSR. It was mentioned in The Mastering Pool dvd with Mika. I understand this has been around for a long time, I must have missed it working through more advanced systems.

The parallel way of aiming actually improved my game in more than one way. It more or less instantly made me place my eyes in the correct place when coming in to the shot. It made me aware of the "area" on the cue ball which i intend on hitting the spot on the OB with. It also in some weird way helped me place my right foot in a better line with the shot. I had problem cutting to the right before this system entered my mind through the Mastering pool dvd. Now the cuts feel more alike and I have increased my cut shot percentage to the right by a fair amount.

This in symbiosis with a dash of TOI works fantastic. It's almost to simple I guess, and I gather a lot of systems on the market derives from this easy as pie aiming system.

Who ever came up with this, thanks.
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http://www.saluc.com/html/billiard-es/pdf/tucker_system.pdf
 
It's my understanding this is the system used, and possibly developed, by Willie Mosconi.

I'm not the best player on the forum, but I've made for than three balls in a row before, and this is the system I use.
 
Hi ,krychekrowe.
Thank you for introducing this aiming system which i have never known .
I download your PDF and i will study it .
 
I find it easier to match the point on the OB with the corresponding point on the CB. However, it works better if you aim with the CB instead of your shaft.
 
Its simplicity that helps players improve with this method. Its also this simplicity that deters people from using it. A complex aiming system isn't necessarily going to be more effective. I use this method primarily for long cuts in snooker. The way I set up is by placing my back foot along the dashed line in your image going straight down it. It makes the parallel shift to centre easier for me. What it also does is it makes it so easy to see the centre ball line of travel once you visualise the dashed line.
 
Pidge said:
Its simplicity that helps players improve with this method. Its also this simplicity that deters people from using it. A complex aiming system isn't necessarily going to be more effective. I use this method primarily for long cuts in snooker. The way I set up is by placing my back foot along the dashed line in your image going straight down it. It makes the parallel shift to centre easier for me. What it also does is it makes it so easy to see the centre ball line of travel once you visualise the dashed line.
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Are you aligning your cue with the dashed line, then shifting the cue parallel?
 
Mitchxout said:
Are you aligning your cue with the dashed line, then shifting the cue parallel?
Click to expand...
Yes, but not when I'm down on the shot. Here's a quick run through of what I do;

My instep of my back foot goes straight along the dashed line.
Other foot goes 'out' and is square to the shot line, but this isn't so important. It can be square or a little infront but its just down to how you naturally stand.
Once both feet are set my cue is by my side along the dashed line whilst standing.

*now I parallel shift over to centre ball*

The shift is done whilst getting down. Not whilst up, or down on the shot. I find this way of shifting to be the most accurate for me. So its basically leaning right or left whilst getting down.
 
Pidge said:
Yes, but not when I'm down on the shot. Here's a quick run through of what I do;

My instep of my back foot goes straight along the dashed line.
Other foot goes 'out' and is square to the shot line, but this isn't so important. It can be square or a little infront but its just down to how you naturally stand.
Once both feet are set my cue is by my side along the dashed line whilst standing.

*now I parallel shift over to centre ball*

The shift is done whilst getting down. Not whilst up, or down on the shot. I find this way of shifting to be the most accurate for me. So its basically leaning right or left whilst getting down.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your explaination. I'm using it as we speak. :yeah:
 
Pidge said:
Good luck with it, buddy. Its very robotic to start but once you have it down its quite fluent.
Click to expand...

For whatever reason, it seems to work well if I aim with the edge of the CB that bisects the OB. Right edge for right cut and visa versa.
 
Mitchxout said:
For whatever reason, it seems to work well if I aim with the edge of the CB that bisects the OB. Right edge for right cut and visa versa.
Click to expand...
So right edge to OB contact point for a right cut? Or more like a fractional overlap?

The first is how I aim. Basically stand behind the CB inside edge to contact point. From here focus on where you perceive centre CB. Then simply slide down into it.

I use the parallel method for long cuts. Seems to give me more confidence I guess.

The way I aim developed from using the parallel method with a bit of SEE thrown in. I think you are right on track already by finding a method and tailoring it to your self.
 
Pidge said:
So right edge to OB contact point for a right cut? Or more like a fractional overlap?

The first is how I aim. Basically stand behind the CB inside edge to contact point. From here focus on where you perceive centre CB. Then simply slide down into it.
Click to expand...

.Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Naturally, one cannot see the CB contact point from behind the ball. Using the CB edge seems a good way to perceive the both the CB contact point and centerball. Thanks. :thumbup:
 
Another thought:

This thread presupposes that the contact point on the equator of the OB that sends it to the pocket/target can be discerned. Like a cut to the left where the contact point is on the right side of the OB. Some cannot visualize this so other methods of aiming are useful.

If one can see the contact point and it's relation to the OB edge as a fraction of the OB, say 1/4 OB in from the right edge, then aiming the proportional (for the CB and OB are seen to be different diameters) fraction from the left edge of the CB at the contact point...while standing. One doesn't need to imagine where the contact point on the other side of the CB is (to the shooter).

Then bend over and shift to the center of the CB on that line and shoot.
 
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