aiming system ....

that can get to the "Ghost ball" contact point ...
as that simple?...



//

If we where to stay center ball maybe but since we cant gb- cc is bs.;)

cp is strong though,just got to know where to move.
 
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I'm just an old guy, weekend warrior, I usually run a 40 or 50 something in straight pool when I get to play. I use an aiming method so simple to use that anyone can learn it in seconds, and you can apply any english while aligning, and the method doesn't care.

Problem is everyone says it doesn't work, it can't work, or it's impossible to think it works, so, I guess you will have to be a Rhodes scholar before you can figure out the methods recommended here.

I don't want to pass on bad information. :thumbup:
 
I'm just an old guy, weekend warrior, I usually run a 40 or 50 something in straight pool when I get to play. I use an aiming method so simple to use that anyone can learn it in seconds, and you can apply any english while aligning, and the method doesn't care.

Problem is everyone says it doesn't work, it can't work, or it's impossible to think it works, so, I guess you will have to be a Rhodes scholar before you can figure out the methods recommended here.

I don't want to pass on bad information. :thumbup:

I'll guess: edge of ferrule at the contact point?
 
I'm just an old guy, weekend warrior, I usually run a 40 or 50 something in straight pool when I get to play. I use an aiming method so simple to use that anyone can learn it in seconds, and you can apply any english while aligning, and the method doesn't care.

Problem is everyone says it doesn't work, it can't work, or it's impossible to think it works, so, I guess you will have to be a Rhodes scholar before you can figure out the methods recommended here.

I don't want to pass on bad information.
Try me. Post here or a PM. This was some of the chat I had with The Drill Instructor last night--some top players can't tell you how they aim because they do things differently than they say they do or have locked in true automatic aim. (What I try to do unless I am working specifically on aim mechanics.)

Try me, I won't attack but may analyze your english compensations and etc. for your own review. I'm most curious.
 
I'm just an old guy, weekend warrior, I usually run a 40 or 50 something in straight pool when I get to play. I use an aiming method so simple to use that anyone can learn it in seconds, and you can apply any english while aligning, and the method doesn't care.

Problem is everyone says it doesn't work, it can't work, or it's impossible to think it works, so, I guess you will have to be a Rhodes scholar before you can figure out the methods recommended here.

I don't want to pass on bad information. :thumbup:

You can safely post your aiming system here.

I can't really remember anyone getting a hard time in these forums just over an aiming system.

The people here are mature, rational adults with exceptionally open minds when it comes to new ideas.
 
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LMAO...this is funny!!

Duc.

You can safely post your aiming system here.

I can't really remember anyone getting a hard time in these forums just over an aiming system.

The people here are mature, rational adults with exceptionally open minds when it comes to new ideas.
 
Na ... that's way too simple, that can't work. It's geometrically incorrect, physically all wrong and far too easy too grasp.

It works, but people want diagrams to prove it works. I use it all the time, especially when I'm warming up, tired, or out of stroke. It gets my eyes working with my brain. It's the nuts on long, thin cuts.

Best,
Mike
 
Na ... that's way too simple, that can't work. It's geometrically incorrect, physically all wrong and far too easy too grasp.

3andstop's Secret Aiming System (3SAS)
  • Geometrically incorrect
  • Physically all wrong
  • Far too easy to grasp.

If you can keep it under $20, I'd buy it.
 
3andstop's Secret Aiming System (3SAS)
  • Geometrically incorrect
  • Physically all wrong
  • Far too easy to grasp.

If you can keep it under $20, I'd buy it.


There's a guy out there somewhere named Dave Mullen (hope I have the last name right) who actually made a video tutorial on the same method.

I would only add, envision this aiming line not only as the left or right side of the shaft, but allow it to extend mentally from your entire stick.

For example, if you play right handed, when cutting left, feel that line along the left side of your stick all the way to your finger tips. Conversely, on right cuts feel the line going to the part of your hand that touches along the right side of the butt.

Allow the line to extend from the contact point on the object ball ( which is that point on the object ball opposite the portion of the pocket you are aiming at) all the way along your stick.

I would also add, very importantly, to see that line while you are standing behind the shot and drop into your stance along that line.

You should get down as low as comfortable, pause at the cue ball with your tip. As you shoot, be very sure there there is a subtle acceleration through the cue ball.

There are two lines here, the line along the side of your shaft, to the object ball that passes through the cue ball and the line from the object ball to the pocket. When you are down on the shot, pausing at the cue ball with your tip, take a glance at that other line from object ball to pocket, then return your focus to your aim.

Feel the shot happen and trust it. It doesn't matter what english you put on the cue ball. Just shoot through the cue ball along your line like the cue ball isn't even there.
 
There's a guy out there somewhere named Dave Mullen (hope I have the last name right) who actually made a video tutorial on the same method.

I would only add, envision this aiming line not only as the left or right side of the shaft, but allow it to extend mentally from your entire stick.

For example, if you play right handed, when cutting left, feel that line along the left side of your stick all the way to your finger tips. Conversely, on right cuts feel the line going to the part of your hand that touches along the right side of the butt.

Allow the line to extend from the contact point on the object ball ( which is that point on the object ball opposite the portion of the pocket you are aiming at) all the way along your stick.

I would also add, very importantly, to see that line while you are standing behind the shot and drop into your stance along that line.

You should get down as low as comfortable, pause at the cue ball with your tip. As you shoot, be very sure there there is a subtle acceleration through the cue ball.

There are two lines here, the line along the side of your shaft, to the object ball that passes through the cue ball and the line from the object ball to the pocket. When you are down on the shot, pausing at the cue ball with your tip, take a glance at that other line from object ball to pocket, then return your focus to your aim.

Feel the shot happen and trust it. It doesn't matter what english you put on the cue ball. Just shoot through the cue ball along your line like the cue ball isn't even there.

Edge of ferrule to contact point, we have a winner :) The Mullen method of aiming. There are many posts about this method around here, and a lot of happy shooters using it. Although not geometrically perfect for all angles on paper, it has been claimed that aiming with the ferrule edge compensates for the roundness of the balls and corrects the contact, regardless of english applied. At the very least it is adding an element of aim alignment as compared to say, ghostball aiming. This method should most certainly help anyone not already using a system. One counter-argument is (same with ghostball) finding the exact contact point accurately. The difficulty is expounded as you move to thinner cuts and bank shots.
 
There's a guy out there somewhere named Dave Mullen (hope I have the last name right) who actually made a video tutorial on the same method.

I would only add, envision this aiming line not only as the left or right side of the shaft, but allow it to extend mentally from your entire stick.

For example, if you play right handed, when cutting left, feel that line along the left side of your stick all the way to your finger tips. Conversely, on right cuts feel the line going to the part of your hand that touches along the right side of the butt.

Allow the line to extend from the contact point on the object ball ( which is that point on the object ball opposite the portion of the pocket you are aiming at) all the way along your stick.

I would also add, very importantly, to see that line while you are standing behind the shot and drop into your stance along that line.

You should get down as low as comfortable, pause at the cue ball with your tip. As you shoot, be very sure there there is a subtle acceleration through the cue ball.

There are two lines here, the line along the side of your shaft, to the object ball that passes through the cue ball and the line from the object ball to the pocket. When you are down on the shot, pausing at the cue ball with your tip, take a glance at that other line from object ball to pocket, then return your focus to your aim.

Feel the shot happen and trust it. It doesn't matter what english you put on the cue ball. Just shoot through the cue ball along your line like the cue ball isn't even there.


thanks and will try it.



//
 
Good luck. I hope you see the line in your mind's eye and simply stroke along it.

This method won't be discussed much because it's far too easy to use. There's no jumping, pivoting, (which in my opinion is an outrageous concept) or twisting involved.

You won't have to study pages of explanation, buy dvd upon dvd, there is nothing complicated to learn.

Just the left side of the shaft to cut a ball to the left and the right side to cut to the right. Apply your english ( whatever you desire, it has no affect on the shot) when you align, not after.

If you want, you can practice seeing this line by laying your stick on top of the long rail so the side of your shaft is along the line made where the cloth ends on the rail and the wood starts. Practice stroke along that line. LOL, that's about the extent of the difficulty of this method.

I like to think of my cue as having two laser beams, one along each side of the shaft. I turn the left one on in my mind's eye to cut to the left, and the right side to cut to the right. Point the beam directly at the contact point on the object ball.

Stroke along the line to the contact point on the object ball once your stick is placed, and forget the cue ball.

Way too simple. Can't work, no money to be made speaking those few sentences. :)
 
Good luck. I hope you see the line in your mind's eye and simply stroke along it.

This method won't be discussed much because it's far too easy to use. There's no jumping, pivoting, (which in my opinion is an outrageous concept) or twisting involved.

You won't have to study pages of explanation, buy dvd upon dvd, there is nothing complicated to learn.

Just the left side of the shaft to cut a ball to the left and the right side to cut to the right. Apply your english ( whatever you desire, it has no affect on the shot) when you align, not after.

If you want, you can practice seeing this line by laying your stick on top of the long rail so the side of your shaft is along the line made where the cloth ends on the rail and the wood starts. Practice stroke along that line. LOL, that's about the extent of the difficulty of this method.

I like to think of my cue as having two laser beams, one along each side of the shaft. I turn the left one on in my mind's eye to cut to the left, and the right side to cut to the right. Point the beam directly at the contact point on the object ball.

Stroke along the line to the contact point on the object ball once your stick is placed, and forget the cue ball.

Way too simple. Can't work, no money to be made speaking those few sentences. :)

Roger Griffis uses something similar to what you're describing except the part about "forgetting the cue ball," and he uses the edge, not the contact point of the object ball. I believe Shane does something similar as well.

"Forgetting the cue ball" seems unusual since you're hitting the cue ball, not the object ball with your tip. But to each their own, at least your positioned to the inside of the cue ball, that's a good thing, it just seems like you would tend to over cut shots frequently.

I'm curious, after the cue ball contacts the object ball do you watch the cue ball or the object ball's contact point?
 
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