Am I all set to re-tip my own cues???

Maniac

Maniac

2manyQ's
Silver Member
Today I ordered a Cue Top Sander Machine, a Porper Tip Clamp, and a Porper Mushroom Grazer. I already have a good utility knife, Super Glue Gel, and all kinds of sanding boards, files, and tip-tappers. So, am I ready to start replacing my own cue tips or is there anything else I'm gonna need? What's the best way to burnish the sides of the new tip once it's properly shaved down?

BTW, I'm gonna start out with my Valley Supreme house cues and I will not even consider doing my more expensive shafts until I get it mastered.

Is there any advice that you can give me to help me better understand this process. What kind of problems may I run into (aside from using too much glue)???

Thanks in advance for any advice you may give me.

Maniac

P.S. I'm gonna start out putting Triangles on my house cues but later on I plan on trying the Sniper and/or the Moori medium on my shafts.
 
If that Porper tip clamp is the same one I have, it's designed to replace tips already shaped that have popped off a cue. I have had varied results with them. But, since you are using super glue gel, I don't think you need a clamp. Just apply pressure for a couple minutes. That should do it. I usually lay a 12 inch piece of 2X4 on the floor and press the shaft with newly applied tip against it while I'm watching TV.
 
I suggest that if you plan on having "layered tips" on your cues that you have it done by someone with the proper equipment. You will never be able to do as good a job on the layered tips as someone with a lathe. The layered tips last a long long time when properly installed and thus the cost of having someone do it with the proper equipment is well worth it.
 
Maniac said:
Today I ordered a Cue Top Sander Machine, a Porper Tip Clamp, and a Porper Mushroom Grazer. I already have a good utility knife, Super Glue Gel, and all kinds of sanding boards, files, and tip-tappers. So, am I ready to start replacing my own cue tips or is there anything else I'm gonna need? What's the best way to burnish the sides of the new tip once it's properly shaved down?

BTW, I'm gonna start out with my Valley Supreme house cues and I will not even consider doing my more expensive shafts until I get it mastered.

Is there any advice that you can give me to help me better understand this process. What kind of problems may I run into (aside from using too much glue)???

Thanks in advance for any advice you may give me.

Maniac

P.S. I'm gonna start out putting Triangles on my house cues but later on I plan on trying the Sniper and/or the Moori medium on my shafts.
Click to expand...

I wouldnt worry about a tip clamp at all, its just another way of putting a dent in the shaft. If you are using the superglue gel, just hold finger pressure on the tip for a minute or so and let go of it, prop it against something where its not going to fall and nothing is touching the tip. Leave it there for 5-20 minutes and you are ready to start trimming.
I use the big shaver as opposed to the mushroom grazer as it allows a little more adjustment to what you are trimming. Other than that.... a little sandpaper (I dont go rougher than 800 on tips) and you can spin the shaft with one hand while lightly holding the sand paper around the tip.
If you want to get really fancy, you can make a spinner for a hand drill that will simulate a lathe for sanding the side of the tip after trimming. There is a post on this forum.... I think the inventor called it a crutch tool. Its a bolt and one of those rubber feet like on the bottom of a walking crutch or cane.
Ive replaced tons of tips for many years and never had a problem doing them by hand. So dont let people tell you that you MUST have a lathe. Im gonna try the sniper soon and see if I can figure a way to do it without a lathe. :D
Chuck
 
Used Willard Tipper?

There is a "used" Willard tipper available in the Wanted/For Sale section!?

A lathe would definitely be better ;)

Happy Holidays!
 
mooseman said:
Does the Big Shaver prep the ferrule for the tip?
Click to expand...

Not really. This is where top sander comes in .. to flat sand the top of the ferrule. Big shaver is good for one thing .. trimming tips after installation. The burnishing and ferrule prepping (non) functionalities are useless, in my experience.

Also, it's a bit of learning experience to trim layered tips (i.e. Moori medium) on Big Shaver. Single piece tips are a lot easier to trim.

From my experience I agree that tip clamp is useless. Just press down on the tip for few minutes until it's set. I've seen other people use mushroom grazer to trip the tips but I ain't got that level of patience. If I can't do it in few turns using Big Shaver, I'm glad to pay someone else to do my tips for me.
 
Last edited:
mooseman said:
Does the Big Shaver prep the ferrule for the tip?
Click to expand...
No that is what the top-sander is for. Big shaver trims the side of the tip flush with the ferrule.
 
mooseman said:
Does the Big Shaver prep the ferrule for the tip?
Click to expand...
No, just the willard retipping machine. The big shaver is a very fancy mushroom grazer that you can adjust, specifically meant to retip cues. It has other tools built onto the side of it (a tapered burnishing tube and shaper), but they arent needed and dont work very well anyway. It would be better not to put those on there, and cut the price by 10-20 dollars.
Chuck
 
Maniac said:
Is there any advice that you can give me to help me better understand this process. What kind of problems may I run into (aside from using too much glue)???
Click to expand...


Three things I can add that I do. First, take a short piece of vinyl tape, about the width of Scotch Tape, electrical tape works well, and cover the ferrule so the top edge is flush with the top edge of the ferrule after you have removed the old tip. Leave this on until after the glue has dried and any excess glue that runs down will come off with the tape. This will save you from having to scrape or sand dried super glue from your ferrule.

Second, wrap the top of your shaft with a piece of plastic food wrap overlapping the tape. I always end up with glue on my hands and would hate to get any on the shaft.

Lastly, if you don't want to use the clamp you've bought, after you've held the tip on with your fingers for a few minutes, I just place my shaft, with butt attached, in a corner tip end down for a while until I'm confident the glue has dried. The weight of the cue will keep the tip pressed nicely.

Other than that, have at it and good luck!
 
Sand the back of the tip with some coarser sandpaper. Basicly so there is a place for the clue to grab hold.
 
One more thing ... I use loctite GEL glue. This is a lot easier to control overusage than liquid superglue.

Using too much glue was one of my problem as well .. it's another learning curve to get it right and I'm still learning.
 
lights_out said:
Three things I can add that I do. First, take a short piece of vinyl tape, about the width of Scotch Tape, electrical tape works well, <snip>
Click to expand...

Instead of electrical tape, you can buy a special masking tape that won't leave any glue residue. Any paint shop or a hardware store like Ace would have it. You can cover the ferrule and wood with it without leaving them sticky, and it works well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top