An 8-ball break question.

NewGuy

NewGuy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is how I usually break in 8-ball. If I hit it just right, with the right amount of speed I can get the 8-ball in. However, if I hit it just a little too hard, the cue ball goes flying off the table... and I mean really flying. I've actually hit it literally into someones wine glass 5 feet from the end of the table. :D What am I doing wrong?

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NewGuy said:
This is how I usually break in 8-ball. If I hit it just right, with the right amount of speed I can get the 8-ball in. However, if I hit it just a little too hard, the cue ball goes flying off the table... and I mean really flying. I've actually hit it literally into someones wine glass 5 feet from the end of the table. :D What am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...


You're making the shot too easy for yourself. In the future, see if you can get the speed just right to balance it on the top of an open beer bottle the next time.
 
I saw a guy break the other night and the CB went about 10 feet and to the left and landed right in a big styrofoam cup of beer like Mike Massey's boot shot.

That was almost as funny as the guy that accidentally maced himself. He thought it was a lighter.
 
NewGuy said:
This is how I usually break in 8-ball. If I hit it just right, with the right amount of speed I can get the 8-ball in. However, if I hit it just a little too hard, the cue ball goes flying off the table... and I mean really flying. I've actually hit it literally into someones wine glass 5 feet from the end of the table. :D What am I doing wrong?

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With the 8-ball break you do get a major chance of making the 8-ball, but there are added factors that you really have to take into account.

Speed - Should probably not use more than 3/4 speed or power. Otherwise, difficult to control the speed and power and stay on the table. Nice thing, is that even with this reduction in speed, this break can still spread the balls quite well.

Stroke - Very level stroke is critical. Of course, you can't be perfectly level when coming in from this angle, due to the rails, but you definitely want to be as level as possible. Every increase in angle (from being jacked up) will definitely increase the probability of flying off the table.

Smoothness - You also want the stroke to be as smooth as possible. Any unneccesary jerks in the strokes, will increase the chances that the cue ball will fly. Since you're not hitting square on the first ball, any jerkiness in the stroke will cause the cue ball to skip towards the rack of balls. If the cue ball catches the rack in an upward direction, or even if it's significant enough downward motion, then that'll increase the chances of ricocheting off the table.
 
i break 8 ball just like 9 ball.........from the side rail, stop whitey in the center.........break a little harder though. get a good spread most of the time.

VAP
 
NewGuy said:
This is how I usually break in 8-ball. If I hit it just right, with the right amount of speed I can get the 8-ball in. However, if I hit it just a little too hard, the cue ball goes flying off the table... and I mean really flying. I've actually hit it literally into someones wine glass 5 feet from the end of the table. :D What am I doing wrong?

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%eC0b2
)END
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Hey Mike,

If you're like me (and most people for that matter), then your mechanics for breaking are different than they are for shooting. As it was stated earlier, this type of break calls for less speed. In fact, significantly less. Properly played, it should be as though you were pocketing the secondary ball firmly into the corner pocket. In fact, you shouldn't even be using your break-cue. If, on a scale of 1-10, 1 is a tap and 10 is a break-shot, you should be hitting this no greater than 7.

It does require some practice but if you're playing APA 8-ball, it's well worth it. It really is an incredible way to improve your chances of winning the set AND you can use it whenever necessary whereby legally keeping your handicap intact.
 
what's important

We have leagues where I live that the 8 on the break doesn't count
as a win, which I think is good because it helps focus on what's really
important which is:

1) Making a ball on the break
2) Having decent position with the cueball.
3) Having as good a spread on the table as possible.

That's what is important for most, not all but most, Pool games.
If you get your game where it should be, you won't be worrying about
snapping the game ball so much on the break, because you will know
that if you get a good break, you can get out anyway.

But I must concede though, it is NICE to snap the game ball on
the break when you are in a hill-to-hill match with someone.
 
Snapshot9 said:
We have leagues where I live that the 8 on the break doesn't count
as a win, which I think is good because it helps focus on what's really
important which is:

1) Making a ball on the break
2) Having decent position with the cueball.
3) Having as good a spread on the table as possible.

That's what is important for most, not all but most, Pool games.
If you get your game where it should be, you won't be worrying about
snapping the game ball so much on the break, because you will know
that if you get a good break, you can get out anyway.

But I must concede though, it is NICE to snap the game ball on
the break when you are in a hill-to-hill match with someone.
Click to expand...


You must understand Snapshot, in APA eight-ball, using this form of break is the correct strategy. It's virtually risk free since if you miss-hit the rack and foul, the 8-ball has almost zero-chance of going in. If you hit it correctly, the cue-ball has virtually no chance of scratching. What's more, there is a positional advantage if the balls spread well and you make a ball on the break AND if the balls fail to spread, you've lost nothing. This is in contradiction to the head-on-give-it-all-you-got break where if you fail to pocket a ball, you've pretty much sold out.
 
Thanks FLICKit. I think I know my problem now. I tend to jack the cue up a bit too high. I'll have to practice keeping it as level as possible. I've also noticed that when my stroke isn't smooth it flys off the table more... been trying to fix that.

Jude, I'll have to try it with my regular cue. My break cue has a phenolic tip which gives it a little pop. I've been trying to get the optimal speed down where I get a nice spread if the 8 doesn't go in. I really like this break, it's paid off a number of times in my APA matches.
 
NewGuy said:
I've been trying to get the optimal speed down where I get a nice spread if the 8 doesn't go in. I really like this break, it's paid off a number of times in my APA matches.
Click to expand...


I couldn't agree more. Side-breaking smothers the cue-ball, keeping it from racing around and finding a pocket. Also, it gives you an inside-out perspective rather than an outside-in which is typical when breaking head-on.
 
Snapshot9 said:
We have leagues where I live that the 8 on the break doesn't count
as a win, which I think is good because it helps focus on what's really
important which is:

1) Making a ball on the break
2) Having decent position with the cueball.
3) Having as good a spread on the table as possible.

That's what is important for most, not all but most, Pool games.
If you get your game where it should be, you won't be worrying about
snapping the game ball so much on the break, because you will know
that if you get a good break, you can get out anyway.

But I must concede though, it is NICE to snap the game ball on
the break when you are in a hill-to-hill match with someone.
Click to expand...

True, but as Jude said, it doesn't hurt in a league where 8 on the break is a win. If I hit it right, I usually make the 8 in or get a nice spread while making a ball or two. Right now I'm just trying to correct the cue ball flying problem.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
I couldn't agree more. Side-breaking smothers the cue-ball, keeping it from racing around and finding a pocket. Also, it gives you an inside-out perspective rather than an outside-in which is typical when breaking head-on.
Click to expand...

Can you explain the inside-out vs outside-in. I'm not sure I get it.
 
NewGuy said:
Can you explain the inside-out vs outside-in. I'm not sure I get it.
Click to expand...


In an inside-out perspective, I mean you're in the middle of the mess with options all around. Usually, it give you an opportunity to clear some center-table balls first. In this scenario, you're often pocketing balls that are blocking the paths of other balls.

In an outside-in perspective, you're clearing away perimeter balls, looking for an opportunity to get inside clustered areas. In this scenario, you're often taking your easiest shots early, looking for an opportunity to clear paths for others.


In a side-rail break, the cue-ball usually ends up right in the rack area, giving you middle-position (not necessarily for the table but for the majority of balls). If you have an opening (which is common), you can often times eliminate your biggest problems first.

In head-on breaking, the cue-ball often snaps back toward the headside of the table. Under normal circumstances, this usually leaves you with only perimeter shots which rarely clear paths for obstructed balls.
 
Jude Rosenstock said:
In an inside-out perspective, I mean you're in the middle of the mess with options all around. Usually, it give you an opportunity to clear some center-table balls first. In this scenario, you're often pocketing balls that are blocking the paths of other balls.

In an outside-in perspective, you're clearing away perimeter balls, looking for an opportunity to get inside clustered areas. In this scenario, you're often taking your easiest shots early, looking for an opportunity to clear paths for others.


In a side-rail break, the cue-ball usually ends up right in the rack area, giving you middle-position (not necessarily for the table but for the majority of balls). If you have an opening (which is common), you can often times eliminate your biggest problems first.

In head-on breaking, the cue-ball often snaps back toward the headside of the table. Under normal circumstances, this usually leaves you with only perimeter shots which rarely clear paths for obstructed balls.
Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks!
 
Im in the same boat as you... ive been trying to learn the 8 break for the past couple weeks and through it all ive learned a lot of what not to do. As they said if you jack up over the cue you are almost guarenteed to have it come flying off the table to the right side (my gf wont stand anywhere on that end of the table anymore when i break) The other mistake I was making seems to be another common one. I have a fairly strong straight on break... I was using the same speed trying to break the 8... The other mistake I was making is if I mishit the second ball I would scratch almost everytime in the right corner pocket. (I break from the right side)

Ok now for what I have learned works: As they said the break speed is important and I was shocked at how easy I could hit a tight rack and still send the 8 to the side pocket. The other benefit to this in my opinion is if hit correctly it spreads the balls enough to get a fairly good shot at a couple balls but keeps the table bunched up some so it makes for more of a thinking mans game which I prefer against people that can run the table on me if I give them a chance. Also as far as the problem about being too jacked up over the cue... im not comfortable holding the cue down against the rail so I actually take my fist and make an open bridge using my fist and the rail to make the V for the cue. This works for me because im using less speed so the cue doesnt pop out of the V. I also use a little bit of low right to draw the cue into the long rail to help make scratching in the corner less likely.

After a week and a half or two weeks of practicing I can pretty much get the 8 ball moving towards the side pocket 8 out of 10 times. Sometimes it goes in sometimes it hangs and a couple times its gone toward the side pocket, got hit my a ball and went in the left corner instead. I pocketed it twice in a row against someone that said he was going to kick my A$$, he packed up his cue and went home. :) Good Luck! btw Id only use it in the league if I was up a game or two because i still scratch from time to time. (league being APA)
 
Do as Jude says. The break shot is just as important in 8-ball as it is in 9-ball, but most don't give it enough consideration.

I break from the left side (I'm right-handed) as it allows a flatter cue and more stable bridge (exception: a skewed rack). I use a hair of left english so the cueball hits the rack, goes to the left cushion just as it loses its side spin, then dies on the foot end rail or thereabouts, below ever other ball on the table. This position is old hat for me, but rarely good for my inexperienced opponents.

Usually the shots available from the end rail are:

a tough back cut into a foot corner pocket (which releases the cueball), or
a carom into a foot pocket (carom science....hah! who reads books?), or
a combo into a foot pocket (open table means hitting any ball first is permissable), or
a long shot to a head corner pocket (tough starter ball for most), or
a carom into a side, or
a thin cut into a side, or
and this is one of my favorites, a safety. A safety where I'm "forcing" my opponent to take the troubled group and leaving me the better group.

Practice these shots and you'll be ready if you make a ball on the break. Your opponents (especially those 9-ballers) will struggle with them if you don't make anything on the break.

Keep the cue level and think, "53% speed" and your break will work wonders for you.

Jeff Livingston
 
8 ball break ...

Loun said:
Im in the same boat as you... ive been trying to learn the 8 break for the past couple weeks and through it all ive learned a lot of what not to do. As they said if you jack up over the cue you are almost guarenteed to have it come flying off the table to the right side (my gf wont stand anywhere on that end of the table anymore when i break) The other mistake I was making seems to be another common one. I have a fairly strong straight on break... I was using the same speed trying to break the 8... The other mistake I was making is if I mishit the second ball I would scratch almost everytime in the right corner pocket. (I break from the right side)

Ok now for what I have learned works: As they said the break speed is important and I was shocked at how easy I could hit a tight rack and still send the 8 to the side pocket. The other benefit to this in my opinion is if hit correctly it spreads the balls enough to get a fairly good shot at a couple balls but keeps the table bunched up some so it makes for more of a thinking mans game which I prefer against people that can run the table on me if I give them a chance. Also as far as the problem about being too jacked up over the cue... im not comfortable holding the cue down against the rail so I actually take my fist and make an open bridge using my fist and the rail to make the V for the cue. This works for me because im using less speed so the cue doesnt pop out of the V. I also use a little bit of low right to draw the cue into the long rail to help make scratching in the corner less likely.

After a week and a half or two weeks of practicing I can pretty much get the 8 ball moving towards the side pocket 8 out of 10 times. Sometimes it goes in sometimes it hangs and a couple times its gone toward the side pocket, got hit my a ball and went in the left corner instead. I pocketed it twice in a row against someone that said he was going to kick my A$$, he packed up his cue and went home. :) Good Luck! btw Id only use it in the league if I was up a game or two because i still scratch from time to time. (league being APA)
Click to expand...

I use low right on the 8 ball break too, and use the 8 ball break all the time now, because it seems to be more consistent for making a ball on the break than straight on breaking. I use to use low left, but it still caused too many miscues or jumping off the table too much, so I switched after watching a very good player that used outside english for 8 ball breaking rather than inside english, and it seems to work pretty well. The overall object is to get your game, including the break, to have more consistency at a higher level.

I have noticed a few guys mentioning they play in the APA, which IMO I would rate behind the BCA and Valley. Does the APA still have a handicap
system that only rates a top player as a 7? The less handicap definitions used in a league, the more disparities that exist between actual skill levels.
Apa used to go from 1 or 2 to 7, Valley here goes up to 13, and of course
BCA is much more defined. What I am saying is that a low 5 in the APA and a high 5 in the APA would be a larger swing in actual skill levels than the Valley or the BCA. The more handicap skill levels, the more exact to actual skill levels it is.

I have played in the APA, Valley, and the BCA, as well as different city type leagues, and I liked the APA the least.
 
8BallBreak2ndBall.GIF
 
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