Anniversary Pro 8 Rehab and Moving a Table Yourself

I hope this is the right place for this thread and my apologies if not.

In case someone is considering picking up something similar on their own I thought I’d share my experience as a first time pool table buyer. I'll also document some of the work that is being done to it fix it up a bit.

I was pleasantly surprised that my top choice for a table in the size I wanted lasted more than a day and a half before I reached out to the seller. He was beginning to think he would have to cut it up and put it in the dumpster. After we agreed terms he got a lot of offers. He is a man of his word and never flinched. There are good people out there.

It needs some work but nothing too serious. It included two dozen house cues, a box of replacement tips, three new boxes of blue chalk, two 8 ball racks, a 9 ball rack and two old sets of generic balls. The last might make a nice looking shifter knobs.
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It took 3 hours and 15 minutes to do all the tear down and load out by myself with two important exceptions noted below. I’d never worked on a pool table before and never seen an Anniversary in person until that moment. The disassembly is simple if you can check a manual first to see how it comes apart.

I cut the cloth and did not remove any staples on site which probably saved more than an hour on location.

The two exceptions:
1) One guy in the building helped flip the frame over and set it back on the slate to be disassembled.
2) The same guy and a coworker lifted the slates from the frame and loaded them into my van. They did not want to accept payment but I assured them it was the best $40 I've spent in a long time. Even on a Pro 8 those three pieces have significant mass.

Nothing else would really qualify as heavy. At first I had some concern that the two oval bases might have been filled with some ballast. I could not budge them even a little. It turned out they were just stuck to the linoleum by years of floor was and who knows what else. Both pulled up layers of linoleum when I finally got them to break loose by pushing against one with my feet and the other with my back.

That said, I did unload them by myself and get them into the house and down two carpeted steps using only a hand truck and two short pieces of 2x4. I would have happily shelled out another $40 if two volunteers had been close. Now that all the cloth is off the heavy lifting will fall to the mechanic.

Everything fit easily into the back of a Honda Odyssey with room to spare. Those things have a surprising load rating so it was no problem. I brought a hand truck and a furniture dolly and used neither.

Be prepared to work with straight head screws, thankfully all of these came out. One thing I was not prepared for was removing ¾” square head bolts when the heads were in recesses. I was very fortunate that all could be loosened with a pair of linesman’s pliers but that is not something I would count on. $14 later I now own a ¾” four point ½” drive socket.

Tool list:

9/16” socket deep for sure and shallow too if you have it.

Ratchet and extension.

An electric impact was handy but not essential same with a driver drill.

Big flat blade screwdriver

Smaller flat blade screwdriver

7/16 combination wrench, a speed wrench is handy if you have one.

Rubber mallet

Adjustable wrench and pliers as you never know.

Razor knife to cut cloth or staple remover is you are trying to save it.

Small tool to pry with in case pockets are tacked.

Allen wrenches for bolted pockets.

Someone chime in with what I missed.

Thanks for reading,

Brent
 
The ad clearly showed four of the five skirts were missing sections along the bottom. The original plan was to remove as little material as necessary with a saw or router to create a straight edge and glue a piece back on. The resulting straight edge would have been on a diagonal so each piece would need to be custom fitted. Before cutting started a new plan popped into focus.
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The damaged head skirt had a long enough good section to replace the missing sections on the two short foot skirts. The damaged side skirt could provide enough good material for the head skirt. Only one piece would have to be made from scratch and it would be the same width all along its length.

Ripping the skirts on the table saw was fairly easy. It would have been very easy if the skirt mounting blocks weren’t glued and screwed on to the skirts. As a result, I left them on and made a jig with a 2x4 to rip the four skirt pieces ranging from 10” to almost 8’ long.

A 2” wide section was sawn off the bottom of each foot skirt, 2-1/8” off the head skirt and 2-1/4” off the side skirt. The 1/8” increase made up for the saw kerf. The 2-1/8” section was glued to the foot skirts and the 2-1/4” section to the head skirt.
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This is where it stands now.
 
The jig used to cut the 2-3/8" x 96" tapered blank from a piece of poplar.
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The tapered section shown here was sawn off, and a groove cut into the tapered face to match the grooves on the skirt it will be glued to.
20250314_190741.jpg

Hopefully I'll get a chance to glue it on and sand it to final shape tomorrow.
 
Well, I did get it glued on but not sanded yet.
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The foot and head skirts are sanded and looking pretty good. It is fun to see the mix of wood used in the skirts. The foot skirt has three poplar sections and some as yet unidentified wood that varies from reddish to blackish brown along its length.
 
It looks identical to the frame under my GCI. Brunswick must have used that frame for a long time and justifiably so.
Make you wonder why they changed it for the late III's and early IV's before going back to the original design. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
Make you wonder why they changed it for the late III's and early IV's before going back to the original design. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
What did they change on the IV's? I heard of the end sagging issue but never saw a IV frame.
 
What did they change on the IV's? I heard of the end sagging issue but never saw a IV frame.
Late III's and Early IV's had frames that had longer end pieces that weren't sandwiched between the side runners. The end pieces capped off the side runners, if that makes sense.
 
Late III's and Early IV's had frames that had longer end pieces that weren't sandwiched between the side runners. The end pieces capped off the side runners, if that makes sense.
Do you think they were attempting to make the sides shorter for transport and it backfired?
I haven't come across one yet so something to keep an eye out for. Thanks
 
Do you think they were attempting to make the sides shorter for transport and it backfired?
I haven't come across one yet so something to keep an eye out for. Thanks
It's possible. Not sure why they would have changed it. Maybe RKC has some insight.
 
I've been playing around with polishing methods to find the line between what works and what is more work than I'm willing to do.
This piece took longer than I want to invest but showed promise. Random orbit, some hand sanding, and a really old, really dirty buffing pad.
20250319_193842.jpg

I picked up a surface conditioning tool. This only took about 15 minutes with the 120 grit wheel.
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The current plan is to follow up with the 240 grit wheel, then 360 on the random orbit before moving on to the now clean buffing wheel. I'm hoping total time per corner will be under an hour.
 
Well, I did get it glued on but not sanded yet.
View attachment 812522
The foot and head skirts are sanded and looking pretty good. It is fun to see the mix of wood used in the skirts. The foot skirt has three poplar sections and some as yet unidentified wood that varies from reddish to blackish brown along its length.
It's good to see the work you're doing on this table but I'm curious.

Maybe someone could correct me if I'm wrong but weren't the anniversaries made with Walnut. Wondering how staining these will look.
 
I've been playing around with polishing methods to find the line between what works and what is more work than I'm willing to do.
This piece took longer than I want to invest but showed promise. Random orbit, some hand sanding, and a really old, really dirty buffing pad.
View attachment 813382
I picked up a surface conditioning tool. This only took about 15 minutes with the 120 grit wheel.
View attachment 813383
The current plan is to follow up with the 240 grit wheel, then 360 on the random orbit before moving on to the now clean buffing wheel. I'm hoping total time per corner will be under an hour.
You have to remove all the old clear anodizing and it's tough stuff. A chemical dip is the easiest, most effective.
 
Maybe someone could correct me if I'm wrong but weren't the anniversaries made with Walnut. Wondering how staining these will look.
The people who designed and built these tables weren't the only creatives in the company. The marketing department also employed an artist or two. Some quotes from the 1957 catalog:
"The beautiful Anniversary model combines the traditional beauty of natural walnut..."
"Table aprons are from select cabinet woods..."
"Though appearing to be natural walnut, the rugged FORMICA..."

The Formica rails mean this is not an early model Anniversary. Perhaps the earlier tables with solid wood (or was it veneer?) rails used actual walnut for the aprons.

For what it's worth furniture makers often used poplar as "poor man's walnut". It can be finished to look very much like walnut but it is cheaper (good), lighter (neutral) and softer (bad depending on the application).

Also from the 1957 catalog:
"The massive hardwood frame..." I'm not debating the massive part and poplar is classified as a hardwood but there are softwoods with higher hardness ratings.
 
The people who designed and built these tables weren't the only creatives in the company. The marketing department also employed an artist or two. Some quotes from the 1957 catalog:
"The beautiful Anniversary model combines the traditional beauty of natural walnut..."
"Table aprons are from select cabinet woods..."
"Though appearing to be natural walnut, the rugged FORMICA..."

The Formica rails mean this is not an early model Anniversary. Perhaps the earlier tables with solid wood (or was it veneer?) rails used actual walnut for the aprons.

For what it's worth furniture makers often used poplar as "poor man's walnut". It can be finished to look very much like walnut but it is cheaper (good), lighter (neutral) and softer (bad depending on the application).

Also from the 1957 catalog:
"The massive hardwood frame..." I'm not debating the massive part and poplar is classified as a hardwood but there are softwoods with higher hardness ratings.
We also use poplar in a lot of trim for residential construction because it's pretty stable as well as ease of use compared to other choices.
 
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