Anniversary Pro 8 Rehab and Moving a Table Yourself

I used a surface conditioning tool similar to this one with 120 and 240 grit drums to remove the deep scratches and get a uniform surface. It works fast, is easy to control and provides a nice base from which to begin sanding. Next step is a random orbit sander with 120 then 240 grit to get rid of the texture from the 240 drum. Polishing was done with a firm airway buffing wheel and brown tripoli on a handheld buffer.
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The corner I did last night took just over an hour total and it had several fairly deep scratches. The surface conditioning process takes less time than the sanding or polishing steps. I'd estimate 15 minutes with the surface conditioner, 25 minutes with the random orbit and 20-25 with the buffer.
 
I've been playing around with finishes. Today water based Transtint dye was wiped on all the wood surfaces. It looks good wet and horrible when it dries but that is the nature of dyes.
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Next step is a clear coat of dewaxed shellac. Dye mixed with shellac will be used over that as a toner to even out the color. I'm still undecided on the top coat.

Take care,
Brent
 
The legs have a shellac seal coat.
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The missing veneer on the stretcher was replaced using a piece of 1/2" birch ply as a donor.
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This is the stretcher with dye stain but no seal coat.
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Any idea how the stretcher could have received so many round dents over the years?
 
I'm not a woodworker by any means, why the Shellac seal coat?? I thought Shellac was mainly used to seal in odors.
 
I'm not a woodworker by any means, why the Shellac seal coat?? I thought Shellac was mainly used to seal in odors.
Shellac is used to seal raw wood to either avoiding blotching when staining or used to seal oily or tannin rich woods so you can topcoat. For example, polyurethane won't cure if put directly on rosewood. Sealing with shellac allows you to bridge from the raw wood to be able to topcoat with polyurethane.
 
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More shellac and dye toner coats tonight. The skirts are almost where I want them for top coat.

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If you finish wood shellac is a pretty amazing product. Google shellac as a seal coat and combined with dye as a toner.

It gives you a lot of control over the process and is easily removed with denatured alcohol if you want to back up.

It also plays very well with a lot of other finishes and can serve as a barrier between two that might be incompatible otherwise.

From what I understand it is non toxic to the point of being used in shiny candy shells.
 
The last toner coats are now on the legs and spreader.

In case I need to refer to this in the future here is the recipe for 16oz of toner.
2/3 cup Seal Coat Dewaxed Shellac
4/3 cup denatured alcohol
2 teaspoons Transtint Medium Brown

I used the same Transtint Medium Brown mixed with water for the initial stain. I'll have to look back to see what the dye to water ratio was but I believeit was 1oz/pint.
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All that remains of the wood refinishing is a light sand with scotch brite and the top coat.
 
The last toner coats are now on the legs and spreader.

In case I need to refer to this in the future here is the recipe for 16oz of toner.
2/3 cup Seal Coat Dewaxed Shellac
4/3 cup denatured alcohol
2 teaspoons Transtint Medium Brown

I used the same Transtint Medium Brown mixed with water for the initial stain. I'll have to look back to see what the dye to water ratio was but I believeit was 1oz/pint.
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All that remains of the wood refinishing is a light sand with scotch brite and the top coat.
I think the lighting is kinda poor to really see the color of the wood.
 
Sorry about that, it was getting late in the day. I'll post more once the top coat starts going on.
No need to apologize, I was merely pointing out that it is difficult to see the color. For some reason cell phone cameras can make colors look real odd compared to a digital camera if thats what you were using, I have problems getting my tables cloth to look right, its dark green but it looks blue/green on my cell phone.
 
It has been very humid in Central Florida as expected the last several days so I held off on putting top coat on the Anniversary.

Instead, on a detour, I started and nearly finished my take on something called a Carrooka table. Have I mentioned I'm easily distracted by shiny objects?

Carroka is like Carroms on a round table using snooker or pool rules. Not yet installed on this interpretation are the rubber bumpers. If you look close at the second image you can see the grooves for the bumpers. The commercial version uses solid wood rails but silicone bumpers seem like a fun addition.
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Back to the topic at hand, I learned a good deal about using shellac and General Finishes High Performance Top Coat. Namely that both laid down and dried without issue even in this humidity. With shellac I waited five to ten minutes between toner coats. With the water based top coat, two hours sanded well and accepted the next coat. As a result I should be back to applying top coat to the Anniversary soon.
 
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