Another A-joint question

J

josie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am experimenting with different ways to do an A-joint. Atlas sells some solid phenolic rod and I was thinking of using that as an A-joint tenon. I was thinking of boring 1" into the forearm and gluing in a 5/8" phenolic rod that sticks out about 1". Then drill and tap it for a 3/8-10 pin and installing that. Tap and bore the handle and then attach to the forearm. Do any of you guys do it like this? Can you see any problems with that method? Atlas has two types of phenolic rod(double black linen or rolled and molded), would one be better than the other to use in this application?

I did a search but could not find my exact answers.

Thanks for the help.
 
you're gonna get as many answers as posters here. Personally I go .750 into forearm .750 long and .750 dia I cut my tenon .750x 1.25 and glue 1/2 phenolic tube to the handle. Some go into handle. Some meet in the middle. Some go into forearm. Some change it up for balance. I don't. I buy the tube from atlas. I usually have all sizes on hand
 
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josie said:
I am experimenting with different ways to do an A-joint. Atlas sells some solid phenolic rod and I was thinking of using that as an A-joint tenon. I was thinking of boring 1" into the forearm and gluing in a 5/8" phenolic rod that sticks out about 1". Then drill and tap it for a 3/8-10 pin and installing that. Tap and bore the handle and then attach to the forearm. Do any of you guys do it like this? Can you see any problems with that method? Atlas has two types of phenolic rod(double black linen or rolled and molded), would one be better than the other to use in this application?

I did a search but could not find my exact answers.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

You did say experiment, Didn't you?
This my friend is what Cue making is all about. I do have a question though?
If you use a solid phenolic plug with the exception of the bolt going through it, Do you think it will change the feedback into the handle, where it's a plug of phenolic and not part of the wood from the forearm or the handle?
Do more parts equal less feedback or less parts equal a more natural feedback and it's also easier to trouble shoot if something should go wrong?

Is more less?
Or is less, more?;)
 
Michael Webb said:
You did say experiment, Didn't you?
This my friend is what Cue making is all about. I do have a question though?
If you use a solid phenolic plug with the exception of the bolt going through it, Do you think it will change the feedback into the handle, where it's a plug of phenolic and not part of the wood from the forearm or the handle?
Do more parts equal less feedback or less parts equal a more natural feedback and it's also easier to trouble shoot if something should go wrong?

Is more less?
Or is less, more?;)
Click to expand...


Rep to you Mike, you know what for.
 
RFisher said:
Rep to you Mike, you know what for.
Click to expand...

Thank you, My thoughts for the New Year are, Instead of just giving the answer, why not a question so some actually think and hopefully learn something.
Happy New Year.
 
That is why I am asking. Do I need to use a wood tenon to make sure the feel is right. That is the way I have been doing it. I was just asking to see if using a phenolic rod is any better. I thought that is what this forum was all about, learning from others experiences. I thought a phenolic rod at the a-joint might somehow help the cue.

These may be stupid questions to you guys but I am still in the learning and experimenting stages.
 
josie said:
That is why I am asking. Do I need to use a wood tenon to make sure the feel is right. That is the way I have been doing it. I was just asking to see if using a phenolic rod is any better. I thought that is what this forum was all about, learning from others experiences. I thought a phenolic rod at the a-joint might somehow help the cue.

These may be stupid questions to you guys but I am still in the learning and experimenting stages.
Click to expand...
http://cgi.ebay.com/PHENOLIC-MICART...BI_Plastics_Equipment?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
Those ping like solid wood.
Expensive though.
 
josie said:
That is why I am asking. Do I need to use a wood tenon to make sure the feel is right. That is the way I have been doing it. I was just asking to see if using a phenolic rod is any better. I thought that is what this forum was all about, learning from others experiences. I thought a phenolic rod at the a-joint might somehow help the cue.

These may be stupid questions to you guys but I am still in the learning and experimenting stages.
Click to expand...

It is not a stupid question and I'm not trying to break your nuts but experiment and what do you think, conflict with each other, I personally would not do it, the less seperate parts the better, especially in this case. I do however still think you should do one and learn from it, then follow up on your own thread and tell your thoughts.
 
Thanks for the info, that is what I needed some opinions and ideas. I agree with idea of doing it yourself and see if it works, this forum just helps to narrow down the bad ideas from the really stupid ones.

Thanks again.
 
Just wanting others to try things like this, and draw your own conclusion. You might discover a "hit" that might not be for the cue's you usualy make, but down the road someone might say "I want a cue that hits like......." and using the phenolic insert maybe the difference.

I'm experimenting/heading in the direction of only having wood at the A-joint, You have to try different sizes, woods, how does it hit with ebony, maple, cocobolo, ext.......does it hit well with a cored forearm, does weight effect it? there are alot of variables in this conversation. 2 years ago I was discussing using other woods in the handle area other than maple to effect the hit of the cue, I wasn't convinced by here say that it would make alot of difference, not until I built some of our own, now I can say yes it does effect the hit, and some woods in the handle make the cue hit differently than others, not to mention balance differences. When I need to make a maple forearm/buttsleeve cue heavier, I use a jatoba/cocobolo handle, the cocobolo I use is not very figured. I am even experimenting with different woods for coring. Make a bem forearm hit like ebony for example.

Experiment, make cuemaking your personal playground. Unless you have 40-100 orders and feel like you don't have time to experiment, this is the time to learn for your self. Read stuff here, and go do it. Piece of cocobolo $4-9 from most places, maple Handle stock $2-5 depending on where you get it. Phenolic/metal pin/whatever less than $5 usualy? depending on what you use? $1-2 for glue? (i'm talking about the amount used not the price of the bottle I use) depending on what you use. Now for less than $20 you can put a cue together, and experiment. All things being equal. Don't know your abilitys or equipment, or the amounts you spend for your materials. But I think this is about accurate.

Remember guys, I'm not talking about putting together a $1000 wrapless cue, just a blah whatever kind of a cue.

Good luck, and sorry I haven't sent your moose yet, I'll cut it up asap.
 
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Thanks for the info. No big deal on the ferrules. I havn't used up what I got before. Just wanted more on hand so I don't run out.
 
I was discussing using other woods in the handle area other than maple to effect the hit of the cue, I wasn't convinced by here say that it would make alot of difference, not until I built some of our own, now I can say yes it does effect the hit, and some woods in the handle make the cue hit differently than others, not to mention balance differences.
RF, the handle is the largest mass of wood in a cue.
It will absolutely change the cue's hit imo.
When I see a lightwood forearm and maple handle and the cue is listed at 19 oz or over, I just wonder why maple was used as handle.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I was discussing using other woods in the handle area other than maple to effect the hit of the cue, I wasn't convinced by here say that it would make alot of difference, not until I built some of our own, now I can say yes it does effect the hit, and some woods in the handle make the cue hit differently than others, not to mention balance differences.
RF, the handle is the largest mass of wood in a cue.
It will absolutely change the cue's hit imo.
When I see a lightwood forearm and maple handle and the cue is listed at 19 oz or over, I just wonder why maple was used as handle.
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My point was until I experimented with doing it, I really didn't think it would make that big a difference, but that's why I experimented.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=124355

cue #4 shows a bem forearm/buttsleeve, with a jatoba handle, wanted to add some weight, and add to the hit. I could have used different woods like purpleheart, and others, but the jatoba added the proper weight, and balance I was looking for to this cue. I'm also experimenting coring tiger and bem with a different wood right now, to add to the hit, and forward balance I like in our cues.

Joey, I'm looking forward to hitting with a Brazilian rosewood/bubinga cue, after what you said about the hit I had to build one to:thumbup:
 
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