RichardCranium said:
"THE RESPONSES"..... There you go...now hows bout that explainin...
alrighty lets see if i can make this as short as possible. you must be able to imagine lines on the table for this one. most people who play pool can do this i'm sure, but if you're one of those people who find that difficult, this isn't for you. also this requires a VERY straight stroke as any glancing off the cue ball will alter the course of the object ball.
first take your cue and look at your ferrule. pretend it is a square. you have five different part on your ferrule you can use to aim with. the two edges, the center line, and the two quarters.
ok, now take and ojbet ball and place it on the table. draw an imaginary line from the center of the intended pocket through the object ball. that is the "contact" point and is the only spot on the object ball that you need worry about. NOTE: make sure you draw the line all the way through the object ball. just like any other way of aiming you are focusing on the part of the object ball farthest away from the target pocket.
now, set up a straight in shot. naturally for this shot all you need to do is line the center of your ferrule to the line you drew through the object ball. this works for shots that are straight in and anything slightly off straight. i.e. very small degree cuts.
ok now set up a medium difficulty cut. i haven't gotten on a table with a protractor but it seems this next one works for 30 to 60 degree cuts. now if you are cutting the ball to the LEFT, all you have to do is line the LEFT quarter of your ferrule up with the line on the object ball. if you are cutting to the RIGHT line the RIGHT quarter of the ferrule up with the line on the object ball. don't ask me why, becuase i don't know right now, but it automatically compensates the cut.
now, set up a maximum difficulty cut 60-90. for cutting to the RIGHT line up the RIGHT edge of the ferrule to your object ball line. for cutting to the LEFT line up the LEFT edge of the ferrule to the object ball line.
agian, it compensates.
now for english
there are only two spots on the ferrule to use for english, the two edges.
NOTE: this is very important. this ONLY works when using NO MORE than ONE tip of sidespin. which is usually plenty to get around a 9 ft table.
this works on any cut angle. depending on how good your eyes are and how straight your stroke is, you may have to adjust a little for very thin cuts using sidespin.
ok, set up any cut.
say you are cutting the ball to the left and you want to use right hand spin.
you would line up your shot with ONE tip of side spin and use the LEFT edge of your ferrule to the object ball to pocket line.
now take the same shot. and you want to use inside english (left hand spin) line up the shot using ONE tip of sidespin. aim the RIGHT edge of your ferrule to the object ball to pocket line.
i know this is imposssible but try this on a table a few times before you start your naysaying. (previous statement only applicable to the few people on here who like to bash everything that isn't the way they use it.......LOL)
i have tried this method using a 13 mm tip and my usual 12.4 mm tip and it works for both. i'm not sure if a higher deflection shaft will make a difference, but i wouldn't think so since its only using no more than a tip of sidespin.
i learned this system from a local player, and my ball making percentage went through the roof. it does take some practice like anything else. it took me a week to get fully used to it, incorporating it into my practice routine which lasts about 5-6 hours a day. after a little bit of practice you'll be able to swing down on the line just like you were before.
is anyone else using this or a variation of this? i've never read about it in any book or seen it on any video. (although i haven't seen or read everything)
ok, i think i covered everything, so let me know if this works for you if you try it or if it seems i explained something incorrectly.
thanks
