The platters are going to be spinning awfully fast! The small pulley needs to go on the motor.View attachment 768653View attachment 768654
Ok everyone, a quick quiz...... What is wrong with the above 2 photos?????? Scott and Glen can't play right now because 1) They are both too busy laughing, and 2) Scott was kind enough to point out the error of my ways! I'll post the answer in a while if no one gets it
"Antique" Diamond Ball Polisher
- Thread starter RobM
- Start date
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
100,000rpm setting. I'm guessing the pulleys are switched.View attachment 768653View attachment 768654
Ok everyone, a quick quiz...... What is wrong with the above 2 photos?????? Scott and Glen can't play right now because 1) They are both too busy laughing, and 2) Scott was kind enough to point out the error of my ways! I'll post the answer in a while if no one gets it
All right everyone, I'm starting to think about the electrical for the timer to run this beast of a motor.
But that looks too modern and is the wrong color to blend in with the dark oak case.
I spoke with Intermatic (Hi Guys! Keep the league going strong and know I'm envious I can't join you on Wed. nights!!!) but they wouldn't do a special run of 1 Dark Brown timer....go figure a multi billion dollar company wouldn't set up an entire assembly line to produce just one for me
!!
I think I can use a dark brown toggle switch plate cover though and scribe the markings directly into the plastic, and paint the knob dark brown. Or possibly get a small piece of brass and create the timer inset portion to fit a dark brown decorator/rocker type cover shown in the above photo. Might be a nice accent.
Anyone with another idea?? Crowd sourcing the brain work here.
Thanks
(Dayton Split-Phase Belt Drive Motor, 1/3 HP, 48 Frame, 115V AC Voltage, 1,725 Nameplate RPM
Scott (and Diamond) used something like the following Intermatic timer.But that looks too modern and is the wrong color to blend in with the dark oak case.
I spoke with Intermatic (Hi Guys! Keep the league going strong and know I'm envious I can't join you on Wed. nights!!!) but they wouldn't do a special run of 1 Dark Brown timer....go figure a multi billion dollar company wouldn't set up an entire assembly line to produce just one for me
!!I think I can use a dark brown toggle switch plate cover though and scribe the markings directly into the plastic, and paint the knob dark brown. Or possibly get a small piece of brass and create the timer inset portion to fit a dark brown decorator/rocker type cover shown in the above photo. Might be a nice accent.
Anyone with another idea?? Crowd sourcing the brain work here.
Thanks
This kind of has a vintage look to it and would look even more vintage with the right wall plate.
www.zoro.com
Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 30 min. A530M | Zoro
Order Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 30 min., A530M at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
OOOOHHH!!!!! I like it!! What do you think about 15 vs. 30 minute timers. How long does everyone typically polish their billiard balls for??This kind of has a vintage look to it and would look even more vintage with the right wall plate.
Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 30 min. A530M | Zoro
Order Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 30 min., A530M at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
I usually do 5 minutes in my bucket polisher.
Same.
stewie
Active member
If you have smart things in your home you could use something like this relay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B74H2P6G. You can put it behind any "antique" switch and hide it. You set an automation to always shutoff x minutes after it's turned on.All right everyone, I'm starting to think about the electrical for the timer to run this beast of a motor.
(Dayton Split-Phase Belt Drive Motor, 1/3 HP, 48 Frame, 115V AC Voltage, 1,725 Nameplate RPM
Scott (and Diamond) used something like the following Intermatic timer.
View attachment 769210
But that looks too modern and is the wrong color to blend in with the dark oak case.
I spoke with Intermatic (Hi Guys! Keep the league going strong and know I'm envious I can't join you on Wed. nights!!!) but they wouldn't do a special run of 1 Dark Brown timer....go figure a multi billion dollar company wouldn't set up an entire assembly line to produce just one for me
I think I can use a dark brown toggle switch plate cover though and scribe the markings directly into the plastic, and paint the knob dark brown. Or possibly get a small piece of brass and create the timer inset portion to fit a dark brown decorator/rocker type cover shown in the above photo. Might be a nice accent.
Anyone with another idea?? Crowd sourcing the brain work here.
Thanks
2-4 minutes.
They also make a 15 minute.
Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 15 min. A515M | Zoro
Order Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 15 min., A515M at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
Sounds like a cool idea, but my home nor I are that Smart
stewie
Active member
you look very talented to meSounds like a cool idea, but my home nor I are that Smart
Live and learn! So previously I posted a photo of the top Plywood with the cans attached. I laminated the top with Formica, flush cut the edges and was pretty pleased with the results......until.......I dry fitted the cans with carpet, the Diamond Star insert, and 8 pool balls.
I was too upset to even take the photo. Apparently there is a difference between Schedule 40 10' diameter PVC and Schedule 40 SDR 26 10" diameter PVC of about 1/2". My inside diameter is about 1/2" too small. The entire thing is so tight that everything is bound up and the balls wouldn't spin freely.
So my choices are to redo the top with new PVC and Formica, or try to engineer a smaller Diamond insert. I've opted for the first option and awaiting the delivery of the new PVC, going to look for some more Formica and start again.
Who would have guessed "SDR 26" could cause such chaos?
I was too upset to even take the photo. Apparently there is a difference between Schedule 40 10' diameter PVC and Schedule 40 SDR 26 10" diameter PVC of about 1/2". My inside diameter is about 1/2" too small. The entire thing is so tight that everything is bound up and the balls wouldn't spin freely.
So my choices are to redo the top with new PVC and Formica, or try to engineer a smaller Diamond insert. I've opted for the first option and awaiting the delivery of the new PVC, going to look for some more Formica and start again.
Who would have guessed "SDR 26" could cause such chaos?
So after I discovered the mistake of the wrong PVC, I took a break from the project to regain my sanity, and rebuilt the can deck correctly. Then I took several scrap pieces of oak and started to work on the color for the stain. After several attempts I found one (Minwax Honey) that is close enough in color that I'm happy with it. Oak is a very hard wood and to get a really dark stain takes some work. I have stained the entire case three times and have hit the limit of what the wood will take up. Oak darkens with age and 100 years of patina is going to be impossible to replicate but I think I'm close. The polisher is a bit lighter than the table even though the photos make it look darker. A sample of the formica (WilsonArt "English Oak" that I'm trying to source without buying an entire sheet) is shown too. Once I clearcoat with a finish I'll be close to done.
tomatoshooter
Well-known member
Shhhhh! It's too late now!
tomatoshooter
Well-known member
I'd never heard of it before, but I was able to learn something. Thanks!