Any interest in some carbide sanding mandrels for $240 shipped and paypaled?
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lol Robin!
Actually, i believe that is your set man. Ive got 3 other sets done too. Im shipping these in the order i recieved a pm. They turned out pretty good for an amatuer, lol.
Joe
Joe
Joe, mandrels look great...nice to see you pull it off.
Have one concern and this in most cases would go in a pm but do to you being openminded i thought i would bring it to light here to see if more experienced people felt the same way.
With the female "butt side" aluminum insert, dirt, glue, etc. sitting in there is going to increase the wear substantially as alum. is fairly soft. The reason i say this is because when i use an aluminum pin, and the mandrel threads are dirty, i sometimes have to forcefully remove the mandrel. This, in most instances leaves fairly obvious marring on the pin. My concern would be that overtime, if the threads became a little worn, they would start to locate in a different spot...thus not matching there counterpart.
Just a thought.
Mandrels look good
Have one concern and this in most cases would go in a pm but do to you being openminded i thought i would bring it to light here to see if more experienced people felt the same way.
With the female "butt side" aluminum insert, dirt, glue, etc. sitting in there is going to increase the wear substantially as alum. is fairly soft. The reason i say this is because when i use an aluminum pin, and the mandrel threads are dirty, i sometimes have to forcefully remove the mandrel. This, in most instances leaves fairly obvious marring on the pin. My concern would be that overtime, if the threads became a little worn, they would start to locate in a different spot...thus not matching there counterpart.
Just a thought.
Mandrels look good
I just got done talking to the giy who grinds em for me, and he agrees with you. Im gonna get some phenolic and try plugging the aluminum on the female end. Ive been told phenolic will be a tighter fit on the threads and is more durable.
Joe
Use brass.
I have mandrels for 4 different threads. Only the one for Radial threads has any insert at all, and it's phenolic. After much use, it's still tight. On all the others, the threads are cut directly into the stainless arbor. I like this. If it doesn't represent too great an extra expense, that's the way I'd go.
Also, despite Eric's excellent idea of driving the butt end with a fixture and just using a live center on the mandrel, some may still want to chuck up on the mandrel itself. Both would be possible with stainless arbors.
I realize how much easier aluminum and brass are to machine, but it might be worth the (small) extra expense to go with SS arbors to eliminate a couple operations and an extra part while increasing durability and utility. In the end, the cost might be similar.
Having said that, your mandrel design looks excellent to me and whatever way you go I'm confident you'll put out a good product.
That you are going through this development phase in public on the forum and not rushing an undeveloped product to market speaks volumes about your good intent and your careful nature and elevates you far above those who are too lazy to bother with this process. I wish you success, but it seems assured with your thoughtful approach. Thanks for your efforts.
Now, if you could just taper 'em.....!
Robin
PS- This business of sending the mandrels out on approval, no-questions-asked, only pay if you like it.....I don't know about that......sounds pretty shady.
Just kidding, of course!
Also, despite Eric's excellent idea of driving the butt end with a fixture and just using a live center on the mandrel, some may still want to chuck up on the mandrel itself. Both would be possible with stainless arbors.
I realize how much easier aluminum and brass are to machine, but it might be worth the (small) extra expense to go with SS arbors to eliminate a couple operations and an extra part while increasing durability and utility. In the end, the cost might be similar.
Having said that, your mandrel design looks excellent to me and whatever way you go I'm confident you'll put out a good product.
That you are going through this development phase in public on the forum and not rushing an undeveloped product to market speaks volumes about your good intent and your careful nature and elevates you far above those who are too lazy to bother with this process. I wish you success, but it seems assured with your thoughtful approach. Thanks for your efforts.
Now, if you could just taper 'em.....!
Robin
PS- This business of sending the mandrels out on approval, no-questions-asked, only pay if you like it.....I don't know about that......sounds pretty shady.
Just kidding, of course!
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Will brass be more durable than phenolic? I made my first set with brass and they turned out great, but i was worried the softness of the brass would wear out quickly. Ill try it and see what happens, hell, the worst that could happen is id have to throw it away, lol.
Joe
Thanks for all the words of encouragement man, i appreciate it. I got a little frustrated the other day when i found out my aluminum threads wouldnt work on the female end, but im on a mission to make these the right way! I havent tried stainless yet, but if all else fails, i will. Using stainless might be above my capabilities and equipement. I will give it a shot if i need to though, lol. Ill keep you fellas posted on my progress :thumbup: thanks again!
Joe
I'm going to agree with Robin here. I don't know who made the arbors for Atlas that I bought(the maintenance), but they are worth the extra money compared to others. It might sound lame, but I take pride in using such a nicely machined tool.
Yeah, more durable. My first set of arbors had a phenolic insert for the butt side. It was great, smooth, tight. I used the arbors for about three cues & the insert split/cracked, which altered the way it fit just slightly & the alteration could be felt in the finished cue due to a slight misfit. Had them made with brass insert & have done a hundred or so cues & no wear, cracks, splitting, anything. Fits exactly the same today as it did new.
I might add that I had my pins & arbors made by the same guy, and the arbors are designed to fit the pin just like my shafts fit the pin. Screwed together, you cannot see or feel a seam in the arbors. I finish/sand/polish the butt then and shafts separately & they always fit dead smooth as if I had sanded & polished them together. The exact fit is why the phenolic split. I suspect if rolled phenolic was used, it likely would have held. But the brass is just fine and likely cheaper than rolled phenolic. I just wouldn't use flat lam phenolic if I were you, speaking from experience.
Ill try a set with with brass inserts and see how it goes. I do want to try a set with phenolic tho. By rolled phenolic, you mean phenolic rod correct? Does it matter if its canvas or linen?
Joe
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I would stick with metal. You know it is going to work. Let me see if I can make it to the garage and back without killing myself...
I agree with Randy. Stick with metal. By rolled phenolic, I mean the fabric is soaked in resin and rolled up like a joint. Flat laminated phenolic is sheets of fabric soaked & stacked like veneers. This means the seam on the flat lam stuff stretches across the piece, and therefore is the weak point of the material. With rolled, the seam is spiraled around the piece, not linear, so it gives much more strength and resistance to linear cracks & splits.
Sanding Mandrels
I got mine from Blud about 6 or 7 years ago. They have brass inserts and are
tapered. They were expensive but worth it. You just have to keep the faces clean. Good luck with your project and I agree with Eric--brass is the way to go for the threaded insert FWIW.
I got mine from Blud about 6 or 7 years ago. They have brass inserts and are
tapered. They were expensive but worth it. You just have to keep the faces clean. Good luck with your project and I agree with Eric--brass is the way to go for the threaded insert FWIW.
phenolic or brass
It's all very interesting. My TNS Radial mandrel is still going strong with it's phenolic insert after years of use. I agree with Eric that things need to be done right. I guess Tommy used the good stuff.
But metal is metal. I would rather have it too, but I wonder how tapping it is going to go? Hard brass with a Radial tap? OOOF! Phenolic is hard enough to tap with this particular thread. If someone can do it in brass, cool! Perhaps they can teach me.
Now, if you can cut a female Radial thread with live tooling, it's a different matter, but I understand it's a challenge. You need a special thread mill. I wonder what that baby would cost? Perhaps not too bad...I don't know.
Has anyone on here successfully cut a thread in brass with a Radial tap? I know I can't do it.
Don't all speak at once.
Eric, if you got your mandrels from the guy that makes your pins obviously it was no problem for him, but you use a 3/8-10, don't you? Radial pin is a special case I think. That was my only point.
Robin
"It threads just as easily if not easier." Are you sure about that? With a Radial pin??
It's all very interesting. My TNS Radial mandrel is still going strong with it's phenolic insert after years of use. I agree with Eric that things need to be done right. I guess Tommy used the good stuff.
But metal is metal. I would rather have it too, but I wonder how tapping it is going to go? Hard brass with a Radial tap? OOOF! Phenolic is hard enough to tap with this particular thread. If someone can do it in brass, cool! Perhaps they can teach me.
Now, if you can cut a female Radial thread with live tooling, it's a different matter, but I understand it's a challenge. You need a special thread mill. I wonder what that baby would cost? Perhaps not too bad...I don't know.
Has anyone on here successfully cut a thread in brass with a Radial tap? I know I can't do it.
Don't all speak at once.
Eric, if you got your mandrels from the guy that makes your pins obviously it was no problem for him, but you use a 3/8-10, don't you? Radial pin is a special case I think. That was my only point.
Robin
"It threads just as easily if not easier." Are you sure about that? With a Radial pin??
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