Any one used bevel cutters to mill a tapper

Newton

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Was considering to try a bevel cutter (60' version) in my CNC as a tool for tapering some of the species. I use KJs sawlade setup for some operations but the normal wood cutters I else use has only 2 cutting sides.
I know about the wing cutters but was just considering the bevel as a potential 3rd option.
Any one tried it ?
K
 
Newton said:
Was considering to try a bevel cutter (60' version) in my CNC as a tool for tapering some of the species. I use KJs sawlade setup for some operations but the normal wood cutters I else use has only 2 cutting sides.
I know about the wing cutters but was just considering the bevel as a potential 3rd option.
Any one tried it ?
K
Click to expand...

I am not sure that you are using the correct name. What exactly is a "bevel cutter"?? Is it a router bit? Look up the correct name or please give a better description.

Kim
 
Sorry Kim, but here is a pic.
Might be a stupid idea:(
 

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If you do a lot of tapering

You need a carbide tool to do any volume of tapering with. Get the Whiteside #6805 six tooth bit and the shank they make (shanks can be had in either 1/4 or 1/2 inch diameter) and you are set to go! They cut nice and last a long time before one needs to sharpen them. A HSS bit will dull too quickly when doing repetitive work like tapering. I think I bought my cutters from Amazon for maybe about $25.
 
I was just considering something else as the hoggers while turning things round. The ones I have used on the cnc setup is just the normal wood cutters cutting frim the side.
The lathe setup uses a horisontal router with a pocket cleaning mill-but the router died on my last time.
Hmm, would have a look at some wing cutters then.

Joey-as hoggers I think the push off is not that critical, the finnishing passes would go with KJs saw setup-works well.

Thanks
K
 
Newton said:
Was considering to try a bevel cutter (60' version) in my CNC as a tool for tapering some of the species. I use KJs sawlade setup for some operations but the normal wood cutters I else use has only 2 cutting sides.
I know about the wing cutters but was just considering the bevel as a potential 3rd option.
Any one tried it ?
K
Click to expand...

No, But I have been using a cutter that is concave on the sides.
Another cutter I have used is one that is vertical with a 15 deg bevel.
I set it up so the bevel is the 1st cut and the vertical is the second cut, about .05 mm difference.Seemed to work very well.
Forgot to mention, when the piece is tapered, the bevel is at differing arc points on the different diameters. The small end ,the bevel is hardly touching, the big end the bevel can take too much if you are not careful .
 
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olsonsview said:
You need a carbide tool to do any volume of tapering with. Get the Whiteside #6805 six tooth bit and the shank they make (shanks can be had in either 1/4 or 1/2 inch diameter) and you are set to go! They cut nice and last a long time before one needs to sharpen them. A HSS bit will dull too quickly when doing repetitive work like tapering. I think I bought my cutters from Amazon for maybe about $25.
Click to expand...

How do you prevent the tool from pushing your piece when using carbide cutters? I ask this question because a machinist friend of mine told me once that I should be using HSS cutters for wood because carbide cuts with pressure and not a sharp edge. So I switched to HSS for my tool bits and it cuts much easier. I agree it damages easier and may not last as long but I am more concerned with using the right tool and getting the best results at this point.
 
Funny you should say that. I had to get an internal threading tool made. They (the machinist) asked what I was using it for. I told them it was for aluminum. They said that HSS would work better on AL than carbide would, even if it didn't last as long.
 
opiesbro said:
How do you prevent the tool from pushing your piece when using carbide cutters? I ask this question because a machinist friend of mine told me once that I should be using HSS cutters for wood because carbide cuts with pressure and not a sharp edge. So I switched to HSS for my tool bits and it cuts much easier. I agree it damages easier and may not last as long but I am more concerned with using the right tool and getting the best results at this point.
Click to expand...

The machinist doesn't know we use router bits to cut wood.
He's talking tool bits I bet.
Inserts made for aluminum usually cut wood fine.
If it ribbons, it's cutting fine.
 
JoeyInCali said:
The machinist doesn't know we use router bits to cut wood.
He's talking tool bits I bet.
Inserts made for aluminum usually cut wood fine.
If it ribbons, it's cutting fine.
Click to expand...

So because the router bit is powered and spinning at a very high rate of speed carbide is fine. But when u change to a static tool then switch to hss?
 
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