Any thoughts on the "correct" forward weight
- Thread starter Rak9up
- Start date
Maybe you should un-ignore us long enough to realize we're not 'Slandering' you, just offering our opinions, on a subject, as was asked for by the OP, and even yourself. There was Nothing posted that was directed at you, or slanderous in the least, we all have differing opinions as to hit, stroke, etc. No one way is the right way.WheatCues said:
BTW I'm sure you read our posts, as when on ignore, Unless they changed it, you can't even see that we posted...... so how do you know we did?? because you read it in the other's quotes, and therefore you did see what we posted, and you know it was not about you, and didn't need to post the way you did. Why lie and try to make us look bad? why try to make us look like we're always attacking poor Eddie? Why be that way?, life is way to short for that kind of behavoir. I really hope that someday, you realize that, and move on with becoming an adult.
My apologies to the original poster, and others, I have no intention of promoting an arguement with Eddie in this post or any other. Hopefully, he will feel the same.
Dave
Actually, Jerr, it's just a tad behind me, say about 2-3" back. When I contact the cueball, my arm is pretty close to 90 degree to the floor. I don't have a long stroke like some do. I tend to be towards the table more in my stance, on a normal type shot. Not saying it's the right way, but it seems to work for me. I have my good nites and bad. Tonite at 9 ball league, well, let's just say, my breaks were good, but where not frequent.BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I'm now shooting with a SP that I just completed, Rosewood fullsplice with maple forearm (blank from Shmelke) and it shoots good, just still getting used to the heavyer weight and stiffer hit. Get great english, just to much now...never a happy medium.Dave
wow, I post no comments attacking anyone, just pointing out I'm not wanting to get involved in a huge debate and pointing out that scientifically it's not quite possible to determine what weight is the best weight because it is not the only deciding factor against miscuing and I get attacked and challenged by Eddie. I guess I must find a way to avoid all of Eddie's posts. It takes a real man to be critiqued and not go to the defensive. I guess there's something lacking in someone's character...
but I digress...
but I digress...
nick_s said:
..............................................
thought twice about it......shame on me.....
Last edited:
The sky is falling.
Last edited:
WheatCues
Banned
nick_s said:
Nick, I'm sorry if you took that as a direct attack on you.... it was NOT !
I was speaking in general.. not so much as biting your head off, especially with the last couple of statements... please do not take offense... I have been building cues way too long with balance and counter balance w/ hand position etc. and I can get a little carried away when discussing the subject !
And YES there is a way to determine EXACTLY how much forward weight is needed depending on the measurements of the person's physical attributes in question.. this is what I have been trying to PROMOTE the whole time... this is NOT a game to me it is what I DO and what I KNOW and I would never try to mislead anyone regarding any construction info. about my ONLY source of income !!!!!
In other words I guess I want to show just how friggin serious and knowledgable I am about cuemaking regarding relevant balance points !!!!
- Eddie Wheat
Last edited:
Wheatcues,
I'm a 6'3" player. I play with a 59" cue. My grip hand is placed on the cue so that there is typically about 1" of cue showing behind my pinky. This position is with my arm at 90 degrees when my tip hits the cue ball. When the cue ball is frozen to the rail, I generally choke up on the cue quite a bit on both my bridge lenght and grip hand. But most shots my grip hand leaaves 1" of space behind my pinky.
In other words the back of my grip hand is usually 58" from the tip of my cue on most shots.
I'm a borderline C+/B- player (5 balls racked ghost speed).
I've been thinking of trying a longer cue for a while. 58" is definitely too short for me. The cue often falls right out of my hand on my follow through. I can only play with predator shafts, and I order them now at 30" to get a 59" total length.
I have read some of your posts, but I am not clear on a few things. You say you build the wrap around the grip hand. Does that mean that for me you would recommend the balance point of the assembled cue is where my hand currently is (58" from the tip of the cue)? Does this also mean you would have to extend the length of the cue several inches to enable this to happen?
I use a rubber "condom" grip now that goes past the rubber bumper so I don't care at all about aesthetics of the wrap.
Thanks for your input.
I'm a 6'3" player. I play with a 59" cue. My grip hand is placed on the cue so that there is typically about 1" of cue showing behind my pinky. This position is with my arm at 90 degrees when my tip hits the cue ball. When the cue ball is frozen to the rail, I generally choke up on the cue quite a bit on both my bridge lenght and grip hand. But most shots my grip hand leaaves 1" of space behind my pinky.
In other words the back of my grip hand is usually 58" from the tip of my cue on most shots.
I'm a borderline C+/B- player (5 balls racked ghost speed).
I've been thinking of trying a longer cue for a while. 58" is definitely too short for me. The cue often falls right out of my hand on my follow through. I can only play with predator shafts, and I order them now at 30" to get a 59" total length.
I have read some of your posts, but I am not clear on a few things. You say you build the wrap around the grip hand. Does that mean that for me you would recommend the balance point of the assembled cue is where my hand currently is (58" from the tip of the cue)? Does this also mean you would have to extend the length of the cue several inches to enable this to happen?
I use a rubber "condom" grip now that goes past the rubber bumper so I don't care at all about aesthetics of the wrap.
Thanks for your input.
WheatCues
Banned
iusedtoberich said:
If I understand you correctly...
Yes I do build cues longer as needed to compensate for each player's unique style of play... I am finding that 60" cues are becoming quite the "norm" in my little corner of the cuemaking world...
I do build them even longer if required but that is only if we are targeting the center of the wrap as your "normal" avg. grip I can offset the center balance of the grip backward if needed to compensate for any additional length past 61" inches without having to make the cue any longer than that...
Your armspand and combined stroke range is what determines your required counter balance point so that you have adequate forward balance all the way out to the tip of the cue to insure complete control over top english shots as a main focal point so this in turn obviously gives you complete control over the rest of the primary english factors...
Also, I buy predator 314 blanks at cost and these automatically give me a minimum of 30" to play with as well.. so I can appreciate the extra length too !
- Eddie Wheat