any tricks or tips on reigning in your stroke?

scottycoyote

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
im trying to keep my stroke consistent......i do the spff and on shots where i need to let my stroke out it works great, i get superaction on the cueball and make my shots. My problem lately is transitioning to softer and finesse shots. If i try and use the same stroke but softer, i still end up overhitting the ball. If i modify my stroke, it seems like i end up without a good followthru, or even worse it will take root and then my other shots feel awkward. Do you guys use different strokes for different shots....i mean other than the obvious lite tap versus a power draw. Other night i was playing and moving the cueball all around the table like a pro, running out........then it seems like when i had some finesse situations i would totally blow the shot, one time i even jumped the cueball over the object ball on a short shot lol, that was embarrassing.
 
Do you use a full stroke for every shot? For instance if your bridge is 8 inches, do you draw the cue back 8 inches for every shot, hard or soft?

I control the power of the shot to a great degree with the distance of my backstroke. I use a 10 inch bridge, for most shots I use 4-5 inch back stroke. If I need more power I draw the cue back 7-8 inches. On the very soft shots I sometimes draw the cue back on a couple of inces.

It's kinda like the clock system that Annika Sorennstain (sp?) uses in golf. She controls the power of the swing by the length of the back swing.

Watch Alex Pagualyan though he does what I described above. He has an incredibly long bridge but he rarely uses all of it.
 
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well thats part of the problem......if i shorten the bridge ill end up shortening my followthru. I was tryin to use the same stroke........all the way back then follow thru completely....that i do on my long shots. I guess there is the problem. I just hate to have to think about bridge length........i shorten my bridge on this shot, i lengthen it on this one........its more clutter in my mind.
 
I think the shorter and longer stroke is the best for speed control.

I could write pages on the differences in bridge length. Some say use a longer bridge for harder shots and shorter bridge for soft. But if you do the exact opposite it will work well with your pivot point. Also some recommend a shorter bridge for draw and a longer bridge for follow. I think it's all up to whatever you're comfortable with.
 
scottycoyote said:
well thats part of the problem......if i shorten the bridge ill end up shortening my followthru. I was tryin to use the same stroke........all the way back then follow thru completely....that i do on my long shots. I guess there is the problem. I just hate to have to think about bridge length........i shorten my bridge on this shot, i lengthen it on this one........its more clutter in my mind.

Another thing is to learn different strokes for different shots. A short punch stroke will do wonders for the types of shots you described. Hell, almost my entire game is short, punchy strokes. Works for me.

Regards,
Koop
 
Although I agree that a shorter stroke is key to a softer shot, you can try slowing down your stroke, too. Practice lagging one length of the table and one width of the table to see what works best for you. My biggest problem with finesse shots is when I need to go to the rail and come back out. I either hit 'em way too hard or way too soft.
 
scottycoyote said:
well thats part of the problem......if i shorten the bridge ill end up shortening my followthru. I was tryin to use the same stroke........all the way back then follow thru completely....that i do on my long shots. I guess there is the problem. I just hate to have to think about bridge length........i shorten my bridge on this shot, i lengthen it on this one........its more clutter in my mind.

I am not recomending you change your bridge length. I think you should just change the length of your back swing depending on the shot. Watch Alex Pagualyan, long bridge, short stroke. Unless of course he needs to hit it harder.

Try it, see what happens.
 
scottycoyote said:
im trying to keep my stroke consistent......i do the spff and on shots where i need to let my stroke out it works great, i get superaction on the cueball and make my shots. My problem lately is transitioning to softer and finesse shots. If i try and use the same stroke but softer, i still end up overhitting the ball. If i modify my stroke, it seems like i end up without a good followthru, or even worse it will take root and then my other shots feel awkward. Do you guys use different strokes for different shots....i mean other than the obvious lite tap versus a power draw. Other night i was playing and moving the cueball all around the table like a pro, running out........then it seems like when i had some finesse situations i would totally blow the shot, one time i even jumped the cueball over the object ball on a short shot lol, that was embarrassing.

Whaty is spff????
My bridge lenght depends on the table clutter......you often have to put you hand different spotsto get over or around obstructions. I prefer to use a longer bridge

McCue Banger McCue
 
Hi Scotty: We address this very issue in school. See you in Charlotte, all will be taken care of.....SPF=randyg
 
Pool School

Scotty, your going to Pool School?

Don't worry then Randy will have your stoke looking purty by day 3!!!!
 
delawhoo......spff is set pause finish freeze........what randyg teaches at cue-tech.

thanks cameron I did work on that a little bit last night and it did help alot on my finesse shots.

good randy, im looking forward to it.........and yeah txpoolshrk im going back to randy for the expert class in october, I did the advanced class last year :)
 
Koop said:
Another thing is to learn different strokes for different shots. A short punch stroke will do wonders for the types of shots you described. Hell, almost my entire game is short, punchy strokes. Works for me.

Regards,
Koop
Little room for Error right, i find myself using a short back swing now days and a good follow through. As when i find using a longer one i have more room for error.
 
If you lost you Good Stroke, Return to the Basic Drills that help you have it in the First Place.

Also I think everyone goes in a Slump once in a while, where they need to return to Practice Routines that made them what they were.
 
steev said:
I shorten my bridge for softer shots. I get much more control this way.

-s

Steev's right here, shorten the bridge you have to shorten the backstroke...
 
I have the same issue, what I did was start playing different games to try and calm things down. Straight pool is great for it, you HAVE to slow your stroke down to play it well. Things are very pinpoint so you don't really have a chance to air out your stroke.

Just a suggestion.
 
Scott,
One important thing to remember...when you shorten your bridge, you also must choke up on the cue the same distance. So if you shorten your bridge by 3 inches, you need to move your grip 3 inches up on the cue. That is how you keep the same stroke on the softer shots.
We'll get together at pool school in October if you are still having problems...
Steve
 
scottycoyote said:
im trying to keep my stroke consistent......i do the spff and on shots where i need to let my stroke out it works great, i get superaction on the cueball and make my shots. My problem lately is transitioning to softer and finesse shots. If i try and use the same stroke but softer, i still end up overhitting the ball. If i modify my stroke, it seems like i end up without a good followthru, or even worse it will take root and then my other shots feel awkward. Do you guys use different strokes for different shots....i mean other than the obvious lite tap versus a power draw. Other night i was playing and moving the cueball all around the table like a pro, running out........then it seems like when i had some finesse situations i would totally blow the shot, one time i even jumped the cueball over the object ball on a short shot lol, that was embarrassing.

Well, you probably won't want to take this advice, because you're being trained otherwise by very highly qualified instructors, but I think set pause finish freeze is part of the problem. I agree with the finish and freeze part of that technique, but I truly believe the set and the pause make it more difficult to deliver the final stroke smoothly and with "touch".

For me, too much stillness immediately prior to the final stroke (the set and the pause) cause my muscles to tense a little, especially when I'm nervous. Overcoming this tension makes the stroke jerky, and makes the cue speed at contact less predictable. If I concentrate on very smooth practice strokes with very little pause (like a free-swinging pendulum), I find my arm muscles can deliver the cue in a more relaxed, smooth, and much more predictable way. This helps on all speed control, but especially those soft touch shots.

Anyway, now that I've said that, you probably still want to listen to your pool school instructors, who are vastly more experienced and knowledgeable than I am. I'm only offering a differing point of view.

-Andrew
 
If you watch pros, most of them play to avoid the finesse shots as much as possible. It's true that it's more difficult for everyone to get a great contact on the OB while keeping speed down.

Your ultimate goal, however, should be to make a great contact on the OB and guide it through the heart of the pocket. If you are focused on this goal and know before you get down to shoot exactly what kind of stroke you put on the ball, it makes it much easier to control contact and follow through gently.

One think I find that helps me tremendously in finesse shots is to visualize the spin of the CB at the moment of contact (easier with measles ball) and visualize the imparted spin on the OB that makes it roll toward your target in the pocket. Maintaining visualization and being prepared to execute the exact shot you want are the ONLY way to be consistent with a shot you may not be comfortable with in general. Otherwise, doubts and distractions will dominate your mind. These shots are a mental battle. Focus on the outcome, not the physical steps you will need to achieve it.
 
Andrew Manning

Andrew Manning said:
Well, you probably won't want to take this advice, because you're being trained otherwise by very highly qualified instructors, but I think set pause finish freeze is part of the problem. I agree with the finish and freeze part of that technique, but I truly believe the set and the pause make it more difficult to deliver the final stroke smoothly and with "touch".

For me, too much stillness immediately prior to the final stroke (the set and the pause) cause my muscles to tense a little, especially when I'm nervous. Overcoming this tension makes the stroke jerky, and makes the cue speed at contact less predictable. If I concentrate on very smooth practice strokes with very little pause (like a free-swinging pendulum), I find my arm muscles can deliver the cue in a more relaxed, smooth, and much more predictable way. This helps on all speed control, but especially those soft touch shots.

Anyway, now that I've said that, you probably still want to listen to your pool school instructors, who are vastly more experienced and knowledgeable than I am. I'm only offering a differing point of view.

-Andrew

You may not be the instructor but I agree with you. While I think there is value in the pauses before and in between the back and forward stroke, the trade off is the lack of tempo and feel on a shot. Maybe it just takes a lot of hitting shots with the built in pauses to get used to it but I'm a believer in what you beautifully described.

The pause system is very big in the snooker world so it must have great value.

On the other hand, maybe it's my imagination but most pro pool players have flowing strokes of one type or another. That must mean something in regular pocket billiards.
 
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