any truth to slight elevation on draw shots?

Tim5000 said:

RIGHT!! And as is there for all to see, Landon not only did NOT have a level or nearly level cue on ANY of his draw shots...he made NO ATTEMPT to have it "as level as possible" because on the short draws played over the rail, his cue never touched the rails and therefore, the cue was not as level as it could have been.

But the REAL proof of the pudding was the last shot in the series where the rail was no factor. In that shot he COULD have achieved an actually level cue and not just "as level as possible" but instead, when drawing for a considerably longer distance than the first few shots, he actually jacked his cue WAY above level and got essentially a full table draw...thank you very much...with an almost effortless stroke.

I am personally much more interested in scientific studies on such topics as this.

But like all the others posting here, all I can go on is what works for me and pass that on as grist for the mill...instead of suggesting that what works for me MUST be correct and will work for everyone else.

JUST NOW, I went to my table (with newish 860) and set up the following shot.

1. OB at center table...1 diamond off the left rail.
2. CB at the 1st diamond off the head rail positioned for a straight in shot.

So, I had 2 full diamonds of separation between CB and OB. Then I executed the shot with as level a cue as possible i.e. with the shaft in constant touch with the head rail...but it was not dead level due to the necessity of cueing over the head rail.

I shot a HARD draw...but not a monster mash stroke and got 6 1/2 diamonds of draw...i.e. back to the head rail and forward 2 1/2 diamonds.

Then I executed the same shot with the cue a good 1/2 inch above the rail...clearly not as level as possible...and got...6 1/2 diamonds of draw.

Then I elevated my bridge fingers to a near vertical position almost (but not quite) as though jacked up over a ball...but CERTAINLY higher than I would ever attempt unless it was necessary...and got....6 1/4 diamonds of draw. I write off that difference to the impossibility of a human being shooting at exactly the same pace and making exactly the same tip contact with the CB...so, within that margin of error, the outcomes were not meaningfully different.

C'mon Scott...chime in here. During our recent lesson you commented specifically that I had "a sporty draw stroke" right??? (-:

Just because I am unaware of scientific experiments on this subject doesn't mean that they don't exist but I have not seen one.

But my sort of "pet peave" on this subject is the FACT that the supposedly ideal level cue RARELY is permitted on a pool table due to the existence of the rails.

SEE FOR YOURSELF...the CB must be nearly 4 diamonds away from a rail before the cue can be oriented dead level and a small percentage of shots in pool are struck with the CB that far off a rail.

So...my point is...why advocate a not impossible but RARE situation instead of teaching the FACT that most draw shots MUST of necessity, be struck with at least a slightly elevated cue.

I agree that "slightly elevated" is a synonym for "as level as possible" but the former term more accurately conforms to the real world and does not set "level" which can only be rarely achieved, as the ultimate goal.

Rather, "slightly elevated" is the ultimate goal because it is the most likely possible orientation and therefore should be taught as such IMHO.

Finally, we have all seen the video of Cory's "draw shot heard 'round the world" which many have suggested was one of the most powerful draw shots ever struck in competition and WATCH IT AGAIN!

His cue was meaningfully elevated!

I mean absolutely no disrespect to anyone posting in this thread and again, I fully admit that what works for me might not work for any other living human. But on the other hand, I own hundreds of championship match videos dating back to the 1960s through today...and watch every single pro match that is televised so I know for a FACT that A) the vast majority of draw shots are executed with a somewhat elevated cue and B) MANY, MANY pros quite obviously make NO ATTEMPT whatsoever, to orient their cues "as level as possible" as can clearly be seen by simply watching the match videos.

Therefore, IMHO the "normal" draw shot is stroked with a slightly elevated cue...because the conforming definition of "normal" in this case is "a wide spread or usual practice" and nothing is more wide spread than shooting draw shots with a slightly elevated cue...because mostly, we have no choice.

Having said all that, I would be GREATLY interested in being pointed to any scientific study that shows that "exactly level" is fundamentally superior to any other cue orientation for a draw shot.

That won't change my or anyone else's ACTUAL draw stroke because we can rarely achieve level if we wanted to but I think the science would be interesting to read.

Regards,
Jim
 
Cornerman said:
Yup. And everyone should notice that on the one shot at 1:00 that Landon could actually get his stick nearly level, he was nowhere near level. In fact, he was even more elevated than the other shots. Just like how every decent player shoots that same shot. Mirrors and videos are a wonderful thing.

Fred

TAP...TAP...TAP...(see my later post).
 
Jim...I did chime in...in an earlier post. IMO, keeping the cue "as level as reasonable" for the shot, produces the most consistent, accurate and predictable effect on the CB, for draws of most any length. This is what I believe is pertinent for a majority of players. There are always exceptions to the rule, and the video of Landon certainly proves this. I still believe that most players do not strike the CB as low as they think they do...much the same as they don't know where true center is either! :D

Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com

av84fun said:
C'mon Scott...chime in here. During our recent lesson you commented specifically that I had "a sporty draw stroke" right??? (-:

Regards,
Jim
 
Everyone seems to favor the "level" cue theory for maximum draw and I can understand and respect that.

What I don't understand is why so many people on here think that they will miss a shot if it is hit with a "SLIGHTLY" elevated cue.

If you have a good stroke, there is no reason to miss the shot.

I was shown the "SLIGHTLY" elevated cue method and incorporated it right away. On long draw shots, I am more consistent and pocket the OB without any problems (masse, jump, throw, etc.)

I don't elevate my cue far enough to bring those issues into play.

I say, if it works, go with it !!

Russ.....
 
PKM said:
I've heard a few people say you should elevate your cue slightly on draw shots (I'm thinking specifically of power draw shots, where I have some trouble). Mostly though I've heard to keep the cue as level as possible, obviously it will not be completely level.

What do you think of the advice to have slightly more elevation than strictly necessary for power draw shots? Perhaps it is to give the CB a slight jump to maintain spin? What if it's not quite that much of a power shot where you'd need that? Is it one of those things where good players have a habit that might not be good to teach?

Of course I'm aware of the danger of hitting the CB off-center if you use an elevated cue.
I'm not an instructor, just a learning student. My personal belief is that there's no right or wrong, it's just a matter of how well the individual executes the draw stroke. I was taught 1 degree elevation = 3-5 % error. (I'm not saying elevating the cue is wrong).

I recall a senior member here saying something like "toss the cueball"..similar to Phil Capelle's 9ball-power floaters. 'Cool Cat' Ray Martin's 99 critical shots has a similar version:

Follow through is most essential, at least 4-5 inches to put extreme back spin on the cueball. Keep the cue as level as possible, lower bridge hand so that the cue passes through the cueball at 6 o'clock. The trick is pretend that there's a 'ghostball' 4-5 inches in front of the cueball. Shoot at this 'ghostball' as if the cueball doesn't exist. The idea is to ensure a full follow through and achieve terrific back spin. If you can master the stroke completely, you should be able to draw the cueball automatically and effortlessly, even power draws.

Do try it and you'll be surprised at the spin, no need strength..19oz going at 6oz plus our human acceleration is a lot of power. Of course balls must be reasonably well polished and chalk properly.
 
it does generate additional spin but if you are even slightly off center it also introduces masse. masse is good when you want, and can control it, or are at least expecting it. Masse when your not expecting it gets you horrible shape every time IF you manage to make the ball. the more you elevate your cue the more this will become a factor.

just my experience
 
a level cue with exagerated follow through will net nearly the same results you are looking for. IME
 
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For a power draw I do elevate the butt of my cue. For a short "touch" draws it isn't necessary. But remember....the elevation is slight, just a touch above level. I can't describe the elevation, but just enough to notice you're not level anymore.
 
softshot said:
a level cue with exagerated follow through will net nearly the same results you are looking for. IME

What does an "exagerated follow through" have to do with the results?????

Where do you play at in Mankato????/....SPF=randyg
 
Cornerman said:
It won't kill anyone to simply try it. I swear, it won't kill anyone. There's no "danger." There's no "doom."

The advice works wonders for many people. It doesn't work for others. Life is too short to not try it and find out.

Fred

Hehe, I agree :) . But if I answered all my questions by actually trying it out on the pool table, what would we talk about?

Thanks for the all responses, it looks like we got some good discussion going.
 
JimS said:
Don't elevate. That's the wrong method. Learn to hit lower and follow through properly.

Nope. You can hit just as low with an elevated cue...you just end up with tip-to-ball contact at a higher position on the tip. And as is discussed in the Onoda article linked to elsewhere, you lessen the possibility of a miscue when striking the CB abd the lowest possible point in order to impart maximum draw.

And as I have noted before, I think it would be REALLY useful to spend less time discussing theory and more time watching how champions actually execute shots. Doing so will yield the fact that even in those instances where they COULD achieve a "nearly level cue" they generally make no attempt to do so...just as was shown in the Landon clip.

Regardless of theory, recommnending a technique that is simply not used by champions is pretty hollow.

Regards,
Jim
 
Will a flexible cue draw better? I use a really stiff shaft, and can only draw 0.5-0.75 table. With my breakcue, with white diamond and really flexible shaft, I can draw 1 table. I also used a 314 and can easily draw 1-1,5 table.
 
WesleyW said:
Will a flexible cue draw better? I use a really stiff shaft, and can only draw 0.5-0.75 table. With my breakcue, with white diamond and really flexible shaft, I can draw 1 table. I also used a 314 and can easily draw 1-1,5 table.

The kind of tip you are using. A harder tip with good coefficient of friction will always give you the best draw. Playing cue most of the time has a softer tip than break cue just to minimize feedback to your arm.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Jacking up increases the spin-to-speed ratio but reduces RPMs.
First, before reaching such general conclusions, we have to be sure we keep all the other variables constant, and that the only variable changing is the angle of the cue.

If we assume the same contact points on the CB for both cases? If we are, then I disagree with your conclusions and argue that the RPMs actually increase with an elevated cue, simply because you're hitting the CB more below center. In other words, when elevated the cue is hitting the CB surface at a smaller angle, thus imparting more torque on the CB, and thus more spin.

Now, if we assume the same angle the cue makes to the CB surface (different contact points), I might still would argue (though less sure than the previous case) that the elevated cue could give you more RPMs than the non-elevated cue. It is true that for the elevated case you are hitting more down at the table. BUT, you are also increasing the amount of time the cue stays in contact with the CB. The longer the contact time, the more the tip "slides" underneath the CB, thus decreasing the overall cue/CB-surface angle, and thus imparting more overall spin than the initial contact.
 
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First, before reaching such general conclusions, we have to be sure we keep all the other variables constant, and that the only variable changing is the angle of the cue.

If we assume the same contact points on the CB for both cases? If we are, then I disagree with your conclusions and argue that the RPMs actually increase with an elevated cue, simply because you're hitting the CB more below center.

To compare apples and apples for spin produced by level vs. elevated cues, we have to compare equal tip offsets, not identical contact points. For one reason, the same contact point might be a miscue with an elevated cue, especially if you're trying to compare maximum spins.

... It is true that for the elevated case you are hitting more down at the table. BUT, you are also increasing the amount of time the cue stays in contact with the CB.

I doubt it.

pj
chgo
 
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crosseyedjoe said:
The kind of tip you are using. A harder tip with good coefficient of friction will always give you the best draw. Playing cue most of the time has a softer tip than break cue just to minimize feedback to your arm.

Can someone confirm this?

ps. I use a Sniper tip, really soft.
 
randyg said:
What does an "exagerated follow through" have to do with the results?????

Where do you play at in Mankato????/....SPF=randyg

I adjust spin and speed by varying my follow through. more follow through = more spin. if I want a full table draw I exaggerate the follow through as far as I can. maybe this is the wrong way to shoot but it works pretty well for me.

in Mankato you can occasionally find me at "the underground" though I get most of my big table games in my buddies basement. I Shoot a lot of barbox at Hermies outside of St. Peter thats probably the best place to find me.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
To compare apples and apples for spin produced by level vs. elevated cues, we have to compare equal tip offsets, not identical contact points. For one reason, the same contact point might be a miscue with an elevated cue, especially if you're trying to compare maximum spins.
Alright, I agree with you here.

Patrick Johnson said:
I doubt it.
Think of an 80-degree masse shot. Sure, it's a very extreme example of an elevated cue, but don't you think a masse shot has a greater cue/CB contact time than if the same stroke was executed completely level?
 
jsp said:
Think of an 80-degree masse shot. Sure, it's a very extreme example of an elevated cue, but don't you think a masse shot has a greater cue/CB contact time than if the same stroke was executed completely level?
If you are at 80 degrees, but still contacting at the same offset as a draw stroke, there should be no difference.

Otherwise, this is apples and oranges => since a severe angle masse with a very small offset "squeezes" the cue ball to get spin.

-td
 
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