AR6100 - Gold Crown - K-55 or K-66

laserbrn

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I just purchased a Gold Crown I and I'm trying to figure out what rails should go on the table. I believe it came with K=55's, but there is so much conflicting information out there. I'd like to put it back the way it was intended to be.
 
Then you better find some new old stock Monarch cushions. For today...the k55 are a close fit and you will be happy with them.
 
Unless you modify the rails for new k55's i would use k66 as they measure the closest to the original cushions that were on it.
 
What a confusing endeavor. I didn't realize it was going to be so complicated. It seems obvious to me that the profile on k-66 is off. I haven't really ever dealt with k-55 in the past.

K-66 looks too short if that makes any sense. It seems like the playing surface will be larger than it should be.

I was leaning towards K-55's and now I'm leaning towards k-66! The mechanic I have working on the table has explained the problem, but I just can't seem to figure out what to do about it.

Does anyone here have a Gold Crown that is using either profile that can chime in?
 
If you have a GC1 with the original monarch cushions. If you do not change the angle of the subrail and take off about an 1/8" of the subrail new k55 cushions will sit to low and shrink the playing area. The original monarch cushions that fit your table properly are almost the exact dimension of k66 cushions. I would recut the subs for new k55
 
Where are you located? The real solution to this problem is to have your rails modified to fit the modern K55 profile cushions. There is not a cushion on the market today that fit the old GC rails perfectly. With the rails modified the table will play like it never has before.
 
Thanks for the reply, but that didn't help clear up any confusion at all. I suppose the answer is that the subrails need to be cut back to fit new k55 rails, but k66 is a close match out of the box sorta speak?

My table mechanic seems pretty knowledgeable, but he doesn't seem to savvy to this problem or it's solution. I've paid him to set up the table and agreed on a price for the move and setup. I don't know how to approach having this done properly.

I hate it, but for now I think I'll go with K-66 at the lowest setting on the strip and if it's noticeably unacceptable I will have to wait and find a mechanic that can resolve this issue on this table and redo all of this work.
 
table

Thanks for the reply, but that didn't help clear up any confusion at all. I suppose the answer is that the subrails need to be cut back to fit new k55 rails, but k66 is a close match out of the box sorta speak?

My table mechanic seems pretty knowledgeable, but he doesn't seem to savvy to this problem or it's solution. I've paid him to set up the table and agreed on a price for the move and setup. I don't know how to approach having this done properly.

I hate it, but for now I think I'll go with K-66 at the lowest setting on the strip and if it's noticeably unacceptable I will have to wait and find a mechanic that can resolve this issue on this table and redo all of this work.

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Where do you live??
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I am in Santa Clarita, Ca.

Anyone have any idea what this rail modification should/would cost? I'd like to get it done the right way, but I feel a little stuck on this one. He's coming by tomorrow to finish up a couple of things and I'll have to talk to him about this rail situation. If he doesn't know anything about doing this modification do I really want him to do it? Is there someone I can send the rails to that's willing to do this for me and I'll have him reinstall when they are ready with k-55 rubber?
 
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I second to get a hold of Donny from SDbilliards. He is from Long Beach. If you want to go somewhere where you can play both configurations, drive up to Sharky's Billiards in Lancaster Ca. The tables in the back have
K66 on them, Table 4 and 13 have k55 cushions on them.

Take a guess on which tables gets played on the most by the players----------Table 4 and Table 13. We have a mixture of gold crown 1s and 2s.

K55's are your answer. I put the k55's on table 4 and table 13 (Black Diamond) brand. I didnt modified the existing subrail. The nose height was correct but the playing area is about 1/4 shorter.

K66's are installed on the back tables. Correct playing surface 50x100 but the cushion nose height are on the high side causing the table to play slow.

Donny from Sdbilliards has the capabilities of modifying your rails to install
k55s so that you have a true playing surface.

I hope this make sense to you. Im kinda of lucky, I guess, to be able to experience two of the same tables with different cushion profiles side by side.

Im the top table mechanic for the Palmdale/Lancaster area, unless of course Donny is in town.
 
I have contacted SDBilliards and we worked out an agreement. I can't tell you how thankful I am for all of the responses and for pointing me in the right direction.

I know it's kind of a stickling point and that most would probably just install K-55's or K-66's, but the K-66's seem wrong altogether. K-55's (which Brunswick recommended when I called them) would lead to an incorrect playing area. That doesn't sound like a big problem, but when I think about it it's a big problem.

If the K-55's are going to make the table 1/4" off wouldn't that mean it's a 1/4" longer and 1/4" wider? If the table is twice as long as it is wide (100x50) and now it's 100 1/4" x 50 1/4" it's not twice as long and any bank involving more than two rails will be off. Maybe not by a lot, but when kicking at balls that's going to piss me off knowing it may be the table that was off.

I just don't think I can play and especially own a table that's gaffed like that. So, I'm working with SDBilliards and we are going to do this thing right and I'll take pride in knowing that I have a GC1 that's not jacked and most of the others out there that people have aren't right. It takes care and time to do things right and I'm willing to pay to do it right the first time around.

This forum is fantastic, and again thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction.
 
Good choice and you will be very happy with your table, The only reason I didnt have the rails calibrated on the two tables at sharky's is because the owner didnt want to spend the money to have it done so I chose the best cushion profile for the subrail.

Now a real problem, your table will play absolutely perfect after Donny is done with it, but there are alot of Gold Crowns here in SoCal with K66 cushions installed, so just be aware of that when you go to a pool hall to play.

Take some pictures and post them after Donny is done with it.
 
That's an interesting point. Really the only other places I play are Sharky's (nice tables BTW), and Plush Pocket in the valley. Living where I do I'm stuck with Shooters and that place is a sh*thole with junk tables and an asshole for an owner. I refuse to walk in there anymore and with other spots a bit far from me, I've decided the only solution is to bring the table to me.

I haven't been able to play pool for a few years now because the Santa Clarita Valley doesn't have a legitimate pool hall. I wish someone would come down here and put Shooters out on their ass. The last I heard the owner is installing a mechanical bull.
 
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