Are all ferrules heavier than maple?
- Thread starter Flex
- Start date
Perhaps I posted this in the wrong section, but the reason for the initial post was to find out if cue ball squirt might be reduced by changing one ferrule for another, say a shorter one, and/or a lighter one, as Bob Jewett wrote in an article on increasing the 5% of one's game that can make a difference between winning and losing. Sure wish the forum allowed the original poster to reword the title to a thread....
Flex
Flex
advanced edit
Flex,
Go to advanced edit to change a title. I just verified it still worked. I'm going to try drilling a hole in my next plain maple shaft and just covering the end with a thick pad and putting a tip on that. Results when I get a roundtuit, which sometimes takes awhile. I'm still a strong believer that the effective mass of the tip is what is more important, not the actual mass. Guess it is one more forever debate because it is subjective without a robot.
Hu
Flex said:
Flex,
Go to advanced edit to change a title. I just verified it still worked. I'm going to try drilling a hole in my next plain maple shaft and just covering the end with a thick pad and putting a tip on that. Results when I get a roundtuit, which sometimes takes awhile. I'm still a strong believer that the effective mass of the tip is what is more important, not the actual mass. Guess it is one more forever debate because it is subjective without a robot.
Hu
ShootingArts said:
It let me change the title of that post, but not the thread name...
Drilling out the end of a maple shaft will indeed reduce cue ball squirt. I've done it on three shafts. While it reduces the squirt, it also definitely changes the hit, and makes it similar to a Predator 314 hit. Whether you want that is up to you.
One thing I'd suggest after you drill out the shaft is to put a small balsa wood plug in the end of the shaft, or something to fill the top of the void. Of course if you put a pad there, that will also help.
Flex
Thanks
I may put a plug in it after I try it. Buying pads by the hundred and tips fifty at a time it doesn't bother me to cut one off and replace it. I don't know how big a hole I am going to drill and I may follow that up by grinding a tiny boring bar to back bore behind the first half inch or so to root out a little more wood. Having several hundred shaft blanks on hand is a good thing too when I want to play. I have made some very nice ink pen blanks out of some of them after my experiments.
I see what you mean about the title change. The board software doesn't actually recognize it. One more good idea gone to hell.
Hu
I may put a plug in it after I try it. Buying pads by the hundred and tips fifty at a time it doesn't bother me to cut one off and replace it. I don't know how big a hole I am going to drill and I may follow that up by grinding a tiny boring bar to back bore behind the first half inch or so to root out a little more wood. Having several hundred shaft blanks on hand is a good thing too when I want to play. I have made some very nice ink pen blanks out of some of them after my experiments.
I see what you mean about the title change. The board software doesn't actually recognize it. One more good idea gone to hell.
Hu
Flex said:
Just playing
One of the major joys of having all of the toys and supplies to build cues is that I can play with some ideas that are fairly far out. Most of the time they don't work but I often learn from the experiments and occasionally something I thought was a long shot turns out to work great.
I have shot with an OB-1 and I have mixed thoughts about it. My current opinion is that I don't like one enough to buy a blank from them for my personal cue. That is not a reflection of the quality or play of the OB-1, simply my opinion of how it affects my play.
Hu
One of the major joys of having all of the toys and supplies to build cues is that I can play with some ideas that are fairly far out. Most of the time they don't work but I often learn from the experiments and occasionally something I thought was a long shot turns out to work great.
I have shot with an OB-1 and I have mixed thoughts about it. My current opinion is that I don't like one enough to buy a blank from them for my personal cue. That is not a reflection of the quality or play of the OB-1, simply my opinion of how it affects my play.
Hu
it would be interesting to get some ferrule data though. there are so many kinds of ferrule materials, and I don't know what the characteristics of each of them are. I would be particularly interested in the density (weight) of the different types, as this affects deflection the most. any cuemakers out there that can answer this?
Curious if someone has (or would be willing to) tried measuring the squirt of a typical snooker shaft with a brass ferrule. The brass part is pretty thin, I seem to recall. But watching Hendry, Davis and O'Sullivan, it seems to do the job.
Is there an applicable rigidity-to-mass ration that can help? Perhaps one day pool cues will have thin brass ferrules, and less squirt than the heralded Predator 314! ...or... maybe we'll all just learn to adjust?
Is there an applicable rigidity-to-mass ration that can help? Perhaps one day pool cues will have thin brass ferrules, and less squirt than the heralded Predator 314! ...or... maybe we'll all just learn to adjust?
I'm also curious as to how the structural integrity of the ferrule affects squirt.
Ivor-X talks a lot about (T) and (L) characteristics in directional hardness. How relevant is this to perceptive human experience? This is ignorant of weight/density of course, so how might it be a factor (hardness and density).
Ivor-X talks a lot about (T) and (L) characteristics in directional hardness. How relevant is this to perceptive human experience? This is ignorant of weight/density of course, so how might it be a factor (hardness and density).
McChen said:
i play quite a bit of snooker and a snooker cue squirts pretty similarly to a pool cue. the mass of the end of the cue is lower, because the shaft is thinner and ash is slightly less dense than maple. but the balls are smaller, so it pretty much evens out. the ferrules are brass, but they are thin and fairly short compared to a 1" pool ferrule. 10mm is the standard length for a snooker ferrule, and there are also very short 5mm ones now. i think maybe a typical snooker cue deflects slightly less than a typical pool cue, especially if you have one of the 5mm ferrules, but if there is a difference it is probably fairly small. but there is no equivalent to a predator type shaft in the snooker world as far as i know