Ok, here you go. These were my first two breaks. As you can see in Rack #1 the 1B is right behind the 6B. No shot here. Imagine that.
And in Rack #2 I actually made three balls but, as you can see, the CB got kicked around and there is no shot on the 2B. Imagine that.
This is the norm. And it's about this time after 3-4 racks of the same crap as this that I start to get that shitty attitude. Here we go again, that's what I say to myself.
I'm not entirely qualified to explain this but I'll try.
When breaking there are three main objectives.
The
first is to pocket a ball. The wing ball should be "wired" which is why they come up with all the different breaking formats for the pros. Basically with a template you could slow roll the CB and make the wing. Watch Corey Deuel soft breaks online.
The
second objective is to control the lowest ball. If you send the 1B toward the middle pocket there are three options. Option 1 is to try to keep the 1B near the side, you do this by trying to hit the rail about a diamond from the side pocket, toward the rack area. Speed and spin are important. Option 2 is to send the 1B toward the corner pocket at the end you are breaking from. To do this you want the 1B to hit the rail past the side pocket, about the 3rd diamond and then hit the end rail about 1/2 diamond from the corner pocket. Option 3 is to pocket the 1B. This is useful if you play where the 2B is racked in the back as you can control where it goes.
The
third objective is to keep the CB in the center of the table (or where you can make the lowest ball). Center table gives the best probability of getting a shot on the low ball. If you are doing option 3 above (1B toward breaking end corner pocket) then you can also draw the CB to the head rail for an easy shot on the 1B when it's near the corner pocket on the head rail.
Here's the kicker. Each of these breaking styles need quite a bit of practice to get proficient at. Think of SVB or Corey practicing breaks for hours upon hours.
Look up Dr. Dave's
info on breaking, both that PDF and the pages on his site. The important part here is seeing where each ball has a tendency to go. I've seen other diagrams of where they tend to go but I forgot where I saw them probably a Dr. Dave video or in his book. If you get good enough to read a rack you can break with the knowledge of where a ball should go. Like say the 2B is your wing ball. You want to pocket the wing ball, and also decide to pocket the 1B in the side. The 3 ball is sitting on the opposite side wing ball. So, the 3B is your next ball. The 3 has a natural tendency to go 3 rails and track toward the head of the table. This tells me to stop the CB in the center so I will have a shot on the 3. It's also a good idea in case I miss the 1B I will still have a shot at it.
Getting a shot on the low ball isn't just a matter of happenstance, but it takes discipline to learn this stuff.
This all sounds like a huge complicated thing doesn't it? Well, it is but at the same time it isn't. You must pay attention and observe (I suggest pattern racking balls in numerical order and keep them the same while learning, it's easier to extrapolate info that way). Eventually you will get an idea of what the balls want to do naturally from their position in the rack. Sure you have kisses and such but that isn't the point. You want to learn their natural tendency. If you do this enough you will have an idea of where the balls should end up and can break differently depending on where they are racked. This is an elite skill. To get a similar but not as strong benefit, learn the 3 objectives I listed above and practice consistency. It's dead easy to make a wing, send the 1B toward the head corner and draw the CB back for a shot.
Learn this first. It won't be insanely difficult, but it won't be dead easy. You have to take initiative and put in the work while carefully observing.
Also pay special attention to what the balls want to do with different speeds and spins and also with different CB starting locations. There's a million different combinations on the break but you'll find adjustments to do what you want to do. The PDF shows some of that (diagram 4) but the devil is in the details when making adjustments and different placements. Use that PDF as a practice tool and learn it by heart.
Now unless you're an elite level pro player this info isn't absolutely required. Quit worrying about running every rack from the break and instead focus on making a ball and getting the CB in the center of the table. You won't run every rack from there, but you are in control of the table and can initiate a safety battle or just straight up lock your opponent up. Running racks means something obviously but winning means just as much as long as you maintain control of the table and figuratively keep your hand around your opponent's throat you will win. Think of a boa constrictor, just suffocate the air out of them. A constricting style of play is tough to fade. How can your opponent win if they have no room to breath at every chance at the table?
The two breaks you posted are examples of still controlling the table. In the first photo do a "kick and stick" on the 1B. Send the 1B down table, preferably on the middle of the end rail. The CB is now behind the 6B and your opponent is at a huge disadvantage. You control the table and it's in your hands to win. Could your opponent get lucky? Sure, but percentages say you've won this rack from here.
The second break picture... sure, that's rough, but there are a dozen ways to play a safe here, a few including the jump stick. If you're not comfortable playing the safe here, push out. I'd probably try to kick 2 rail into the 2, hitting the first rail about 4-6" to the right of that chalk. It's about angle, speed and spin (top only for me here) but you should be able to easily hit the 2B. You're probably not going to get anything in the pocket but go for separation and try to leave them a tough shot. You may lose this match, but you could also win it with a smart move. Not all racks are winnable, but you would be
WISE to practice strategy and shooting at least the first shot after the break. Practice a push out, or just try a kick and stick or something, see just how hard of a shot you can leave the next guy... play a safe and lock him up, etc. These are great learning opportunities and if you're just re-racking instead of working out the strategy/puzzle, you're doing yourself a great disservice.
Good luck and enjoy the different aspects of this great (and cruel) game of ours.
