Are Gold Crowns Still Being "Diamondized?"

Somewhere in this thread, a person asked if Diamondizing a Gold Crown would make the GC play better. In my experience, the answer is yes. Fourteen or fifteen years ago, there was a thread to that effect. A guy named RealKingCobra, who was, and may still be, a well-known table mechanic, discussed the process at length. I followed his posts closely because I wanted to learn to work on pool tables. I used to be in the cabinet business, so I already had all the tools and the skills needed to Diamondize my early 1960's Gold Crown I. Using RKC's numbers, I changed the pocket angle and the bevel of the sub-rails at the pockets. That improved my table's ease of play especially for shooting hard into the pockets straight down the rail or from a low angle from the rail. The number of balls that rattled in the jaws and spit back out of the pockets was greatly reduced. Unfortunately, I did add a thicker facing to the cushion going into the pockets to reduce the width to 4 3/4 inches. Next time I recover the table, I will go back to 5-inch pockets.
 
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Ok, here you go. These were my first two breaks. As you can see in Rack #1 the 1B is right behind the 6B. No shot here. Imagine that.

And in Rack #2 I actually made three balls but, as you can see, the CB got kicked around and there is no shot on the 2B. Imagine that.

This is the norm. And it's about this time after 3-4 racks of the same crap as this that I start to get that shitty attitude. Here we go again, that's what I say to myself.
Those are good spreads, and making 3 balls on the break is excellent. Just looking at these two, I doubt anything is wrong with your table. It is probably a matter of getting just the right amount of cut and speed on the 1 ball so that the corner ball goes, cue ball minimally gets kicked and stays near the middle of the table (or hits the rail and comes back out), and the 1 ball drifts up near the top right pocket. If you can do that consistently you are ready to hit the road! Seriously, pool is freaking hard man.

Personally, when I start getting that frustrated, it is time to try something else. I switch between practicing straight pool, rotation games, and various drills. It needs to be challenging, fun, but not to the point of frustration. Otherwise the practice is defeating the purpose, getting my head space all messed up. Maybe find some progressive drills instead of playing the 9-ball ghost all of the time.
 
FYI,
I did manage to break and run out a few minutes ago. I also screwed up a runnable rack. And to finish the runout I had a fairly long straight in shot on the 7B to draw back for the 8B. I manage to make the 7B and draw back for excellent position on the 8B, and finish out the rack.
 
Oh, I forgot to mention.

I did take a dry white towel and wipe off all the balls. Then I took a damp towel and wiped down the table bed and the rails.

Not sure but I think doing so might have actually helped. See my post directly above this one.
 
Ok, here you go. These were my first two breaks. As you can see in Rack #1 the 1B is right behind the 6B. No shot here. Imagine that.

And in Rack #2 I actually made three balls but, as you can see, the CB got kicked around and there is no shot on the 2B. Imagine that.

This is the norm. And it's about this time after 3-4 racks of the same crap as this that I start to get that shitty attitude. Here we go again, that's what I say to myself.
I'm not entirely qualified to explain this but I'll try.

When breaking there are three main objectives.

The first is to pocket a ball. The wing ball should be "wired" which is why they come up with all the different breaking formats for the pros. Basically with a template you could slow roll the CB and make the wing. Watch Corey Deuel soft breaks online.

The second objective is to control the lowest ball. If you send the 1B toward the middle pocket there are three options. Option 1 is to try to keep the 1B near the side, you do this by trying to hit the rail about a diamond from the side pocket, toward the rack area. Speed and spin are important. Option 2 is to send the 1B toward the corner pocket at the end you are breaking from. To do this you want the 1B to hit the rail past the side pocket, about the 3rd diamond and then hit the end rail about 1/2 diamond from the corner pocket. Option 3 is to pocket the 1B. This is useful if you play where the 2B is racked in the back as you can control where it goes.

The third objective is to keep the CB in the center of the table (or where you can make the lowest ball). Center table gives the best probability of getting a shot on the low ball. If you are doing option 3 above (1B toward breaking end corner pocket) then you can also draw the CB to the head rail for an easy shot on the 1B when it's near the corner pocket on the head rail.

Here's the kicker. Each of these breaking styles need quite a bit of practice to get proficient at. Think of SVB or Corey practicing breaks for hours upon hours.

Look up Dr. Dave's info on breaking, both that PDF and the pages on his site. The important part here is seeing where each ball has a tendency to go. I've seen other diagrams of where they tend to go but I forgot where I saw them probably a Dr. Dave video or in his book. If you get good enough to read a rack you can break with the knowledge of where a ball should go. Like say the 2B is your wing ball. You want to pocket the wing ball, and also decide to pocket the 1B in the side. The 3 ball is sitting on the opposite side wing ball. So, the 3B is your next ball. The 3 has a natural tendency to go 3 rails and track toward the head of the table. This tells me to stop the CB in the center so I will have a shot on the 3. It's also a good idea in case I miss the 1B I will still have a shot at it. Getting a shot on the low ball isn't just a matter of happenstance, but it takes discipline to learn this stuff.

This all sounds like a huge complicated thing doesn't it? Well, it is but at the same time it isn't. You must pay attention and observe (I suggest pattern racking balls in numerical order and keep them the same while learning, it's easier to extrapolate info that way). Eventually you will get an idea of what the balls want to do naturally from their position in the rack. Sure you have kisses and such but that isn't the point. You want to learn their natural tendency. If you do this enough you will have an idea of where the balls should end up and can break differently depending on where they are racked. This is an elite skill. To get a similar but not as strong benefit, learn the 3 objectives I listed above and practice consistency. It's dead easy to make a wing, send the 1B toward the head corner and draw the CB back for a shot. Learn this first. It won't be insanely difficult, but it won't be dead easy. You have to take initiative and put in the work while carefully observing.

Also pay special attention to what the balls want to do with different speeds and spins and also with different CB starting locations. There's a million different combinations on the break but you'll find adjustments to do what you want to do. The PDF shows some of that (diagram 4) but the devil is in the details when making adjustments and different placements. Use that PDF as a practice tool and learn it by heart.

Now unless you're an elite level pro player this info isn't absolutely required. Quit worrying about running every rack from the break and instead focus on making a ball and getting the CB in the center of the table. You won't run every rack from there, but you are in control of the table and can initiate a safety battle or just straight up lock your opponent up. Running racks means something obviously but winning means just as much as long as you maintain control of the table and figuratively keep your hand around your opponent's throat you will win. Think of a boa constrictor, just suffocate the air out of them. A constricting style of play is tough to fade. How can your opponent win if they have no room to breath at every chance at the table?

The two breaks you posted are examples of still controlling the table. In the first photo do a "kick and stick" on the 1B. Send the 1B down table, preferably on the middle of the end rail. The CB is now behind the 6B and your opponent is at a huge disadvantage. You control the table and it's in your hands to win. Could your opponent get lucky? Sure, but percentages say you've won this rack from here.

The second break picture... sure, that's rough, but there are a dozen ways to play a safe here, a few including the jump stick. If you're not comfortable playing the safe here, push out. I'd probably try to kick 2 rail into the 2, hitting the first rail about 4-6" to the right of that chalk. It's about angle, speed and spin (top only for me here) but you should be able to easily hit the 2B. You're probably not going to get anything in the pocket but go for separation and try to leave them a tough shot. You may lose this match, but you could also win it with a smart move. Not all racks are winnable, but you would be WISE to practice strategy and shooting at least the first shot after the break. Practice a push out, or just try a kick and stick or something, see just how hard of a shot you can leave the next guy... play a safe and lock him up, etc. These are great learning opportunities and if you're just re-racking instead of working out the strategy/puzzle, you're doing yourself a great disservice.

Good luck and enjoy the different aspects of this great (and cruel) game of ours. :)
 
Ok, here you go. These were my first two breaks. As you can see in Rack #1 the 1B is right behind the 6B. No shot here. Imagine that.

And in Rack #2 I actually made three balls but, as you can see, the CB got kicked around and there is no shot on the 2B. Imagine that.

This is the norm. And it's about this time after 3-4 racks of the same crap as this that I start to get that shitty attitude. Here we go again, that's what I say to myself.
Welcome to 9B. To answer your original question, there's nothing wrong with your table. You just need to practice your break to consistently squat the CB and control the 1B to bank two rails to set up in one of the lower corners (side depends on which side you break from). You also have to realize POOL IS HARD. Without knowing your skill level, you may only break and run 1%-5% of the time. Other have asked (including me) what your Fargo Rate is but you've yet to tell us. If I had to guess, I'd say somewhere in the high 400's to low 500's. Keep at it. There's no magic bullet and the only solution is practice. Perhaps you can seek out an instructor in your area to assist.
 
I am firm believer in 4 3/4 inch pockets for the person who has a home table and would like a table enjoyable for all family members, friends, and casual match play. A very, very small percentage of people who play this game actually would enjoy a table with small pockets. The people on this site who advocate for very small pockets are either hard core players or delusional about their abilities and /or aspirations in pool.

For the person who works full time, has significant family involvement time, has a home and property to mange, has a nice group of friends, family who visit the home on a fairly frequent basis --- ask yourself what your true aspirations are regarding pool and a significant investment in a home billiard room. I had a home billiard room for over 30 years- three different tables, by far, by far, my best choice was a Brunswick GC with standard 4 3/4 inch pockets-- Everyone who visited had a great time, I was able to become a more than decent player for life, and both my sons will play this game forever at a very decent level- consider the BIG picture on any major purchase.
Great points. The pool table should fit your needs. I play on 7 ft Diamond bar boxes all the time, plus I have a fairly small space for a table. The only player is me (practice), so I opted for a 7 ft Diamond with 4.24" pockets. It forces me to focus. The habit of better focus has made me a better player on regular bar boxes.
 
... You just need to practice your break....
Maybe not.

I have a lot of students who are really concerned about their breaks. They are not going to run the table more than one in 100 or maybe one in 10,000. Really.

I tell such students that they should work on increasing their stroke speed, but what they need to work on most is not scratching on the break. The cue ball should not hit any cushion unless it gets kissed.

Until the OP can run the table with ball in hand at least 10%, his break is practically irrelevant for competition. Of course he may give it more weight as a personal goal, but I'd say it is not the right goal for him.
 
Maybe not.

I have a lot of students who are really concerned about their breaks. They are not going to run the table more than one in 100 or maybe one in 10,000. Really.

I tell such students that they should work on increasing their stroke speed, but what they need to work on most is not scratching on the break. The cue ball should not hit any cushion unless it gets kissed.

Until the OP can run the table with ball in hand at least 10%, his break is practically irrelevant for competition. Of course he may give it more weight as a personal goal, but I'd say it is not the right goal for him.
Just for grins, he inspired me to play the ghost 10 games yesterday.

Broke and could see the lowest object ball 4x. Broke and ran 1x. The other 3x I missed fairly easy shots (but maintained shape). The B&R is pretty rare for me.

I usually do a variation of the ghost that includes safety play. After the break, I get a BiH for every ball made during the break. So if I make 2 balls on the break, I stick a marker at the 2nd diamond. Proceed with BiH after the break. During the game I can use the BiHs earned during the break, or, if I can play a legal safety and hook the ghost where they cannot directly see the object ball, I get BiH. This helps encourage making balls during the break, and safety play, without frustrating me to the point of throwing my cue through the nearest window.
 
Until the OP can run the table with ball in hand at least 10%, his break is practically irrelevant for competition. Of course he may give it more weight as a personal goal, but I'd say it is not the right goal for him.

This wouldn't really be a problem. More like 30-40%.

I guess it depends on the spread. Taking BIH when there is an extremely difficult spread on the table isn't a recipe for runout success. And I don't care who you are. And that includes prime Efren.

Speaking of the break - last night I watched an Accu-Stats DVD from the 1999 U.S. Open match between Bustamante and Rempe. I've watched the first nine (9) racks. So far they are 0-9 when it comes to squatting the CB.

From what I have seen squatting the CB and keeping it in the middle of the table is almost rare.
 
Ok, here you go. These were my first two breaks. As you can see in Rack #1 the 1B is right behind the 6B. No shot here. Imagine that.

And in Rack #2 I actually made three balls but, as you can see, the CB got kicked around and there is no shot on the 2B. Imagine that.

This is the norm. And it's about this time after 3-4 racks of the same crap as this that I start to get that shitty attitude. Here we go again, that's what I say to myself.
Where are you breaking from and how are you trying to hit the 1?

I primarily play 10b, which I've found can be a really touchy break. Often the classic Choose 2: make a ball, control the cue ball, or get a good spread.

I have found that backing off the break power tends to work better than adding more (especially with templates). If you take video of the breaks see if the back balls are coming off the foot of the table and swatting others away from pockets.
 
This wouldn't really be a problem. More like 30-40%.

I guess it depends on the spread. Taking BIH when there is an extremely difficult spread on the table isn't a recipe for runout success. And I don't care who you are. And that includes prime Efren.

Speaking of the break - last night I watched an Accu-Stats DVD from the 1999 U.S. Open match between Bustamante and Rempe. I've watched the first nine (9) racks. So far they are 0-9 when it comes to squatting the CB.

From what I have seen squatting the CB and keeping it in the middle of the table is almost rare.
You have people that possess more knowledge then you trying to bestow it upon you and you revert to "but my Accu-Stats DVD showed this"
If you think breaking and taking bih on a difficult runout isn't a recpie for success, then once again you fail.

You aren't out with bih 3 or 4x out of 10, so go back to fundamentals.
 
This wouldn't really be a problem. More like 30-40%.

I guess it depends on the spread. Taking BIH when there is an extremely difficult spread on the table isn't a recipe for runout success. And I don't care who you are. And that includes prime Efren.

Speaking of the break - last night I watched an Accu-Stats DVD from the 1999 U.S. Open match between Bustamante and Rempe. I've watched the first nine (9) racks. So far they are 0-9 when it comes to squatting the CB.

From what I have seen squatting the CB and keeping it in the middle of the table is almost rare.
Run out with BIH 30-40% of the time? How did you get to be a high 600 to low 700 FR player without becoming intimately familiar with the break??
 
Just for grins, he inspired me to play the ghost 10 games yesterday.

Broke and could see the lowest object ball 4x. Broke and ran 1x. The other 3x I missed fairly easy shots (but maintained shape). The B&R is pretty rare for me.

I usually do a variation of the ghost that includes safety play. After the break, I get a BiH for every ball made during the break. So if I make 2 balls on the break, I stick a marker at the 2nd diamond. Proceed with BiH after the break. During the game I can use the BiHs earned during the break, or, if I can play a legal safety and hook the ghost where they cannot directly see the object ball, I get BiH. This helps encourage making balls during the break, and safety play, without frustrating me to the point of throwing my cue through the nearest window.
See I must be some kind of masochist because I'll get in safety battles with myself for several minutes and eventually get so annoyed I'll force myself to shoot fliers. It practices patience and focus, which can sometimes be the difference in a set. Some of these shenanigans last for way longer than they should. A solo rack of 9B or 8B playing both sides should not take 35 minutes, but it does if you have to follow my ass. 🤣 I think I enjoy safety practice as much as running balls. It kind of reminds me of 1P, which I quite enjoy.
 
This wouldn't really be a problem. More like 30-40%.

I guess it depends on the spread.
So you can run a cosmo 30-40% of the time, or how often? Cosmo layouts only happen maybe 20% of the time. The rest you have to work your ass off for and you can still have a run ending error even on the most simplest out. Simplest out... there is no thing, as mythical as a unicorn!
 
See I must be some kind of masochist because I'll get in safety battles with myself for several minutes and eventually get so annoyed I'll force myself to shoot fliers. It practices patience and focus, which can sometimes be the difference in a set. Some of these shenanigans last for way longer than they should. A solo rack of 9B or 8B playing both sides should not take 35 minutes, but it does if you have to follow my ass. 🤣 I think I enjoy safety practice as much as running balls. It kind of reminds me of 1P, which I quite enjoy.
I love practicing safes against myself. Helps with speed control and kicking.

"Oh that's a good one...@&^$ how do I get out of this...?"
 
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