Are Sneaky Petes fragile?
- Thread starter housecue
- Start date
True "stealth" sneaky petes that have no joint collars are more "fragile" than those that have a joint collar. A joint collar keeps the shaft and butt edges at the joint from chipping and helps keep the wood from expanding or splitting. But I wouldn't really say they are fragile. I'm seeing more and more "not so sneaky" petes.
I have three true sneaky petes. One an Excalibur, and two Schmelkes.
http://www.schmelkecue.com/product_...ucts_id=220&osCsid=9c1i8lu9vh191fogqbft0d5q82
Actually, I had three Schmelkes, but a friend prevailed on me and bought it from me, used, for the price I paid for it, $107 delivered from Schmelke.
I've never had any problem with the joints.
Before I ordered the first Schmelke, I asked Steve or Dave, I forget which, if their sneaky with the wood-to-wood joint without joint collars would stand up to breaking, as someone had told me a sneaky used for breaking wouldn't last more than a year. They told me that wasn't true, and their sneakies would do that work just fine, and that if there was any problem they'd make it right. My kind of folks.
BTW, I recently ordered a custom Schmelke cocobolo sneaky from them. I specified an 11 tip, with a longer than normal pro-taper, with the shaft being perfectly straight for the first 16 inches, then growing 1/2 mm per inch thereafter, and with a 1/4 inch ferrule on it. That cue is the nuts.
If my experience with wood to wood sneakies is typical, you shouldn't have any problems with one.
Flex
http://www.schmelkecue.com/product_...ucts_id=220&osCsid=9c1i8lu9vh191fogqbft0d5q82
Actually, I had three Schmelkes, but a friend prevailed on me and bought it from me, used, for the price I paid for it, $107 delivered from Schmelke.
I've never had any problem with the joints.
Before I ordered the first Schmelke, I asked Steve or Dave, I forget which, if their sneaky with the wood-to-wood joint without joint collars would stand up to breaking, as someone had told me a sneaky used for breaking wouldn't last more than a year. They told me that wasn't true, and their sneakies would do that work just fine, and that if there was any problem they'd make it right. My kind of folks.
BTW, I recently ordered a custom Schmelke cocobolo sneaky from them. I specified an 11 tip, with a longer than normal pro-taper, with the shaft being perfectly straight for the first 16 inches, then growing 1/2 mm per inch thereafter, and with a 1/4 inch ferrule on it. That cue is the nuts.
If my experience with wood to wood sneakies is typical, you shouldn't have any problems with one.
Flex
I have a Huebler bar cue conversion sneaky with no joint collar that I bought in the mid 80's. I used that cue as a player for a while and then as a break stick for thousands of racks and never had a problem. It's still in my case.
Trust me....here is the absolute truth:
Wood to wood sneakies are fine & durable if made with a small pin & the shaft has a brass insert...or even with the Huebler nylon insert. The other side of the story is that when made with a big pin like radial or 3/8-10 then there is no brass insert in the shaft...these are incredibly fragile. I've seen them split the shaft under mildest of conditions. Many cuemakers refuse to make them this style. While they do hit fantastic & I'm sure there are many out there who've been lucky and not broke the one they own....the big 5/16" hole in the shaft simply leaves little wood for strength. I've seen them break from being softly dropped on carpet, from a mild breakshot, and I've even seen more than 1 snap the shaft off when someone holds the cue up in the air and slaps it a bit against their hand to check the shaft whippiness. I have had some good luck using a phenolic insert but I won't guarantee them. If I was making me a new one today...believe me it'd have a collar on the shaft...then they are as durable as any cue made. Now you know the whole truth.
Wood to wood sneakies are fine & durable if made with a small pin & the shaft has a brass insert...or even with the Huebler nylon insert. The other side of the story is that when made with a big pin like radial or 3/8-10 then there is no brass insert in the shaft...these are incredibly fragile. I've seen them split the shaft under mildest of conditions. Many cuemakers refuse to make them this style. While they do hit fantastic & I'm sure there are many out there who've been lucky and not broke the one they own....the big 5/16" hole in the shaft simply leaves little wood for strength. I've seen them break from being softly dropped on carpet, from a mild breakshot, and I've even seen more than 1 snap the shaft off when someone holds the cue up in the air and slaps it a bit against their hand to check the shaft whippiness. I have had some good luck using a phenolic insert but I won't guarantee them. If I was making me a new one today...believe me it'd have a collar on the shaft...then they are as durable as any cue made. Now you know the whole truth.
How hard are you planning on hitting the ball? Even a power draw wouldn't put that much strain on a stick. If you are concerned don't break with it. That would be the only shot that caused stress on the stick. I saw someone split a butt, but it was on a break shot. Also, if you miss an easy shot and get frustrated don't lift up the stick like a ninja sword and smack it hard on the edge of the table. This might cause some slight stress on the stick. Another thing is don't lean the stick up against your car and forget about it and then drive over it. This, too, might cause some problems. I actually know someone who did this with a Szamboti. Luckily the case held up and protected the stick.
Just as Kevin said, I have a 27 year old Meucci with a smaller piloted pin, and a wood to wood unmarked joint. I've left it in the car all winter, broke hundreds of racks with it, and generally treated it with no respect. It has a teneey little taper wobble but still plays great ! My new sneakies, one Dayton and one Hill, both have large pins and phenolic collars. That's the way to go with a large pin I'm told...Tom
Varney Cues said:Trust me....here is the absolute truth:
Wood to wood sneakies are fine & durable if made with a small pin & the shaft has a brass insert...or even with the Huebler nylon insert. The other side of the story is that when made with a big pin like radial or 3/8-10 then there is no brass insert in the shaft...these are incredibly fragile. I've seen them split the shaft under mildest of conditions. Many cuemakers refuse to make them this style. While they do hit fantastic & I'm sure there are many out there who've been lucky and not broke the one they own....the big 5/16" hole in the shaft simply leaves little wood for strength. I've seen them break from being softly dropped on carpet, from a mild breakshot, and I've even seen more than 1 snap the shaft off when someone holds the cue up in the air and slaps it a bit against their hand to check the shaft whippiness. I have had some good luck using a phenolic insert but I won't guarantee them. If I was making me a new one today...believe me it'd have a collar on the shaft...then they are as durable as any cue made. Now you know the whole truth.
Does the 5/16X18 joint with a brass insert qualify as being "fine and durable"?
Absolutely...the tiny Meucci pin is about as small as it gets.Flex said:
As long as you have a brass insert you are fine. Its the big pin holes with no brass that are weak without collars.
Varney Cues said:Absolutely...the tiny Meucci pin is about as small as it gets.
Glad to hear that, for in that same paragraph above you wrote:
Varney Cues said:
I was worried there for a moment
Thanks for the reply.
Flex
Yes Flex, I know it sounds odd....but...your 5/16-18 pin actually uses a 1/4" hole thats then tapped. The big radial & 3/8-10 uses a 5/16 hole thats then tapped. Quite a bit of difference when you compare the two side by side.