Are table spots mandatory?

PariahZero

Member
I’m just curious. I’ve seen the adhesive dots, but never liked them - especially how the cloth around it always looked stretched on a worn table.

I’ve also been toying with the idea of a laser cross and mounting it in the ceiling - and project a marker for maybe a minute or so while racking. That way there is no permanent mark.

Is there actually a rule requiring a permanent mark on the foot spot?
 

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
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I’m just curious. I’ve seen the adhesive dots, but never liked them - especially how the cloth around it always looked stretched on a worn table.

I’ve also been toying with the idea of a laser cross and mounting it in the ceiling - and project a marker for maybe a minute or so while racking. That way there is no permanent mark.

Is there actually a rule requiring a permanent mark on the foot spot?
Depending on which game you are playing, the foot spot, the head spot, the head string, the center spot, the long string in the region of the rack, and the outline of the triangle may be required markings. If it is your own table and not used for competition, you don't have to mark anything.

You can also use a tailor's chalk pencil to do the marking. It is not permanent.

There is certainly no rule requiring a large, sticky spot to be placed on the foot spot. Its main function is to protect the cloth in smash break games and slow the creation of a crater in the cloth under the head ball of the rack.
 

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m just curious. I’ve seen the adhesive dots, but never liked them - especially how the cloth around it always looked stretched on a worn table.

I’ve also been toying with the idea of a laser cross and mounting it in the ceiling - and project a marker for maybe a minute or so while racking. That way there is no permanent mark.

Is there actually a rule requiring a permanent mark on the foot spot?
A table without a foot spot (the spot where you rack the head ball for most pool games) which 8-ball and 9-ball are played regularly, from the force of the break, the base of the head ball will wear a virtual hole right through the cloth over a period of time. As much as anything, the foot spot protects the cloth from such wear. If 14.1 and/or one pocket are primarily played on the table, a marking designating the foot spot is would work fine.
 
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playonepocket

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
A table without a head spot in which 8-ball and 9-ball are played regularly, from the force of the break, the base of the head ball will wear a virtual hole right through the cloth over a period of time. As much as anything, the head spot protects the cloth from such wear. If 14.1 and/or one pocket are primarily played on the table, a marking designating where the head spot is would work fine.
Chris,

You may want to double check your head/foot understanding.

Players break from the head of the table, the balls are racked at the foot end.

http://www.billiardsforum.com/img/d/pool-table-areas.png
 

boogieman

It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
Chris,

You may want to double check your head/foot understanding.

Players break from the head of the table, the balls are racked at the foot end.

http://www.billiardsforum.com/img/d/pool-table-areas.png
I have a spot at the head and the foot. I have drop pockets so no return end and I'm a cheap bastard, I figure if I switch break ends every week or two it might extend the life of the cloth. It's also nice to not get in a rut. :)
 

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Chris,

You may want to double check your head/foot understanding.

Players break from the head of the table, the balls are racked at the foot end.

http://www.billiardsforum.com/img/d/pool-table-areas.png
Noted - I’ve made the correction in my post, thanks. Even though I’ve played pool for over 50 years, I’ve always gotten these terms mixed up. Wouldn’t it make sense that the head ball on the rack gets racked on what you would call the head spot and not the foot spot?
 

Geosnookery

Well-known member
I’ve played 52 years and never use the terms head and foot...I would have to flip a coin to get ‘head and foot’ correct at least half the time.

I'm fussy about my cloth. I switch ends now and then and I also move the racked balls an inch or so off center. Same with the cueball, vary a couple inches When breaking not to create wear in one spot. I play almost everyday and cloth still in good condition after 8 years.

Re sticky spots . I hardly never think of them on my Pool table. Like others, I assumed they for were cloth protection. I have a box of a dozen or so I got for a dollar or so and replace the sticky every couple years if it gets loose.
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Good topic for me as I’m debating how to mark my table to. For the the most part I just use my table for drills and practice so not in a big hurry to get it done. I like that idea Bob Jewitt has about using fabric chalk. That Bob is the gift that keeps giving.
 

Palmetto cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I’m just curious. I’ve seen the adhesive dots, but never liked them - especially how the cloth around it always looked stretched on a worn table.

I’ve also been toying with the idea of a laser cross and mounting it in the ceiling - and project a marker for maybe a minute or so while racking. That way there is no permanent mark.

Is there actually a rule requiring a permanent mark on the foot spot?
Not sure about a rule, but the spot protects the cloth from wearing out.
 

pt109

WO double hemlock
Silver Member
Noted - I’ve made the correction in my post, thanks. Even though I’ve played pool for over 50 years, I’ve always gotten these terms mixed up. Wouldn’t it make sense that the head ball on the rack gets racked on what you would call the head spot and not the foot spot?
I get even more confused...at snooker, the top rail and the bottom rail are the opposite to a pool table.
 

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
Staff member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I get even more confused...at snooker, the top rail and the bottom rail are the opposite to a pool table.
Yes, not only do the UKers have a different word for everything, they turn the billiards table around before they play on it. Crazy. The "top" end is where the reds rack. The other end is the "baulk" end. Here's what the snooker rules say:

(c) Bottom Cushion and Top Cushion The two shorter sides of the table are defined as the Bottom (also known as Baulk) and Top Cushions of the table. Where a cloth with a nap is fitted to the table, the smooth grain of the nap runs from the Bottom Cushion to the Top Cushion.

For brushing a pool table (back when they had nap) the mnemonic for direction used to be "head to foot".
 

Geosnookery

Well-known member
Yes, not only do the UKers have a different word for everything, they turn the billiards table around before they play on it. Crazy. The "top" end is where the reds rack. The other end is the "baulk" end. Here's what the snooker rules say:

(c) Bottom Cushion and Top Cushion The two shorter sides of the table are defined as the Bottom (also known as Baulk) and Top Cushions of the table. Where a cloth with a nap is fitted to the table, the smooth grain of the nap runs from the Bottom Cushion to the Top Cushion.

For brushing a pool table (back when they had nap) the mnemonic for direction used to be "head to foot".
True about words. Often a dilemma when posting to the site whether to use English terms which are often originals or American terms.
I use ‘side, to pot, screw, balk, etc.’...then sometime change them.
 

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
If you break even moderately hard from usually the same place you will quickly damage the cloth. Those dots aren't the most beautimus thing in the world but sticking something there to protect the cloth is a good idea. I have been using a break cloth under the cue ball for breaking too, after seeing burn marks on my cloth.

An aside, it hasn't taken long for me to slightly damage cloth where every ball sits using a racking template. Apparently with them nicely frozen together the whole group of balls skids a bit when hit by the cue ball. Haven't tried to measure but I seem to have craters about a quarter inch long.

Hu
 
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