Ask The Cuemaker Topic

[FAST_N_LOOSE]

Longer Cues

Blud,
What Are Your Thoughts On Longer Cues? What Is Too Long? Should It Be Equal Lenght Butt/shaft, Or Longer Shafts?

 

[gwvavases]

Balance points are differant from cuemakers to cuemaker. I balance mine about 1-1/8th " in front of my wrap.
This seems to work well for me.
As far as bolts, I do not use them. I install a Nylon 5/16 x 18 1" machine screw in the butt of my cues. This is not for wieght, it's only to have something to fasten the bumper to.

I can not say what to do with another brand of cue. I surly hope you understand.
blud

That location of your balance point sounds like it's almost exactly where I would prefer it (rather than at the forward edge of the wrap). I'm curious as to how a cuemaker like yourself can adjust the balance point of a stick without adding something like a weight bolt, given all of the variables involved with the different components of a stick. Any insight you'd care to share?

 

[blud]

balance

That location of your balance point sounds like it's almost exactly where I would prefer it (rather than at the forward edge of the wrap). I'm curious as to how a cuemaker like yourself can adjust the balance point of a stick without adding something like a weight bolt, given all of the variables involved with the different components of a stick. Any insight you'd care to share?

I balance my "cues" [ not sticks] with the woods I use. Not to tough. Fairly simple.

A good cuemaker should know where the balance point should be to make his cues play there best. If he doesn't, shame on him.

A cue needs to be built with out adding something to change the feel of the woods. [weight bolts] my opinion, here sir........it ain't broke, ain't gonna fix it either........


In my opinion, if a cuemaker uses to much steel or weight, you can't feel the natural feel of the cues woods, the ball is struck. The "mass" or added "weight bolts" makes the cue have a hard hit, and throws the balance point off and the cue will not play as designed.


They hit so hard, all shots feel the same. This is not what you want. You need to feel the soft, to the hard shots with your hand, weather they were meant to be soft or hard. The cues going to deliver the "shock wave or feel" to your hand, not matter what the weight or balance point.. If it's to solid or to slugish feeling your not going to improve with time. You hit it hard one time and to hard the next. You got to feel the shot, for top preformance.

blud

 

[blud]

long cues

Blud,
What Are Your Thoughts On Longer Cues? What Is Too Long? Should It Be Equal Lenght Butt/shaft, Or Longer Shafts?

I don't like cues being longer than 58".
When I build one [rarely] I build the shaft longer than the butt. This way, you have a standard lenght cue butt.
58" is a good lenght for me. By adding lenght, you move the balance points, and the cue plays a lot differant than my standard 58" cues.
don't like going there.
blud

 

[gwvavases]

Blud - What I'm trying to get a feel for is how a cuemaker manages the weight of a cue. Let's say that I placed an order with you for two identical cues, one for me and one for my skinny brother. I want my cue to weigh 21 oz, and my skinny brother wants his to weigh 18 oz.

What do you do to make one cue 3 oz. lighter if the same wood, inlays, joints, ferrules, etc, are used?

I'm just trying to understand how you can make a cue so precisely weighted.

 

[kokopuffs]

Just an fyi. At my request my Phillippi was made with a 30 inch butt and a standard 29 inch shaft. Why, because "everyone" makes a 29 inch shaft but not everyone, unlike you, Blud, makes a 30 inch shaft. I can go literally anywhere to get a standard 29 inch shaft if the need arises.

 

[Jon]

Just an fyi. At my request my Phillippi was made with a 30 inch butt and a standard 29 inch shaft. Why, because "everyone" makes a 29 inch shaft but not everyone, unlike you, Blud, makes a 30 inch shaft. I can go literally anywhere to get a standard 29 inch shaft if the need arises.

also, just an FYI, most shaft blanks/dowels/squares are cut at least 30", and i can get them at 32", and most "final sanding size" blanks, are 30", i guess they want you to figure out which end to cut off..., i leave mine at 30", and the cue i'm ALMOST FINISHED making is 29.5" (that is as long as i could make it with that long ass radial pin, that F#$ker is a little longer than 1.5", thats insane... i'll just make my own damn pin at 1.25", and then i can make a 30" butt for myself, that will actually fit in the Case, and i'll get around to making my own case too lol, and i'll just stop buying other peoples stuff... that oughta make 'em happy), but i know what you people are getting at, the first shaft i made was for my pechauer, and it was 30" and i matched the taper pretty close, and the shaft being longer, does make it more flexible, and the only problem with making a 60" cue is it needs to have bigger dimensions than a 58"er, therefore heavier, therefore more planning... i'm getting a headache... if you can decipher that jumbled mess... please tell me what i just said???

Thanks

Jon

 

[blud]

weight

Blud - What I'm trying to get a feel for is how a cuemaker manages the weight of a cue. Let's say that I placed an order with you for two identical cues, one for me and one for my skinny brother. I want my cue to weigh 21 oz, and my skinny brother wants his to weigh 18 oz.

What do you do to make one cue 3 oz. lighter if the same wood, inlays, joints, ferrules, etc, are used?

I'm just trying to understand how you can make a cue so precisely weighted.

Some things I just can't tell you. However, come on down to my place here in texas, and I'll show you how it's done. It's not that tough if you been doing it as long as I have.
blud
PS, hope you understand. I teach this stuff, and get paid for it.

 

[fast larry]

Some things I just can't tell you. However, come on down to my place here in texas, and I'll show you how it's done. It's not that tough if you been doing it as long as I have.
blud
PS, hope you understand. I teach this stuff, and get paid for it.

\
Hey blud, every time evey one gets totally bored she yit less with this endless cue making dribble and it goes totally off the board into limbo where this turkey belongs, you or one of your pals, fake some post to bring it back up so you can run your free ads, keep your name out there and gather your attention so you might get lucky and sell something. You also are doing this because I have the biggest post in history and you figure if you and your dealers keep asking each other questions your already know the answers to you may eventually excdeed my post. That is why all this band width is being wasted, for you wasted ego dude. At least I knew when mine was time to go and let it pass, I had the class to do that, do you?

Your gettin mooned, and there is not a damn thing you can do to stop it.

 

[blud]

shafts

Just an fyi. At my request my Phillippi was made with a 30 inch butt and a standard 29 inch shaft. Why, because "everyone" makes a 29 inch shaft but not everyone, unlike you, Blud, makes a 30 inch shaft. I can go literally anywhere to get a standard 29 inch shaft if the need arises.

Hio kokopuffs, long time no visit.

It's easy as hell to make a 29" shaft into a 30"er.......
Most of my shaft stock is 30" to start with, but when I do make a longer shaft, you can do it two differant ways when your stock is 29" or 30".
normaly the joint end of the shaft is [rings] about 5/8" of an inch long. Before the tenon is cut, you can drill and plug the joint end and gain 5/8, over the regular lenght, so now it's 30-5/8 long going to say 31-1/2..... Simple, drill and plug the ferrule end. Drill at least two inches in, [ with the new tenon 1" long] and then plug it with a tennon.

There are no telling how many cues i have repaired long before I started building cues with this method.
In the old days, a guy would chunk the broken shaft and order a new one when they droped there cue and it broke the ferrule and tenon off at the shoulder of the shaft. I would simply drill and plug. If this is done properly, you can't tell it's ever been repaired this way. The same goes with the joint end of your shaft, when it's been stripped out.

I have no Idea of how many of the stripped wooden threads i have repaired over the last 25 to 30 years or so. I have even fixed some that had "inserts" that had stripped and turned. Do this same steps, drill out and plug, and re-drill and tap for the brass insert.
Hanger guys, just a hanger...
blud

 

[fast larry]

Hio kokopuffs, long time no visit.

It's easy as hell to make a 29" shaft into a 30"er.......
Most of my shaft stock is 30" to start with, but when I do make a longer shaft, you can do it two differant ways when your stock is 29" or 30".
normaly the joint end of the shaft is [rings] about 5/8" of an inch long. Before the tenon is cut, you can drill and plug the joint end and gain 5/8, over the regular lenght, so now it's 30-5/8 long going to say 31-1/2..... Simple, drill and plug the ferrule end. Drill at least two inches in, [ with the new tenon 1" long] and then plug it with a tennon.

There are no telling how many cues i have repaired long before I started building cues with this method.
In the old days, a guy would chunk the broken shaft and order a new one when they droped there cue and it broke the ferrule and tenon off at the shoulder of the shaft. I would simply drill and plug. If this is done properly, you can't tell it's ever been repaired this way. The same goes with the joint end of your shaft, when it's been stripped out.

I have no Idea of how many of the stripped wooden threads i have repaired over the last 25 to 30 years or so. I have even fixed some that had "inserts" that had stripped and turned. Do this same steps, drill out and plug, and re-drill and tap for the brass insert.
Hanger guys, just a hanger...
blud

Turkey, did you not read what the people said, take your cue repair crap off the main board and put it in your internal newsletter or go on a sub board. Nobody gives a she yet about how you repair cues. We just play pool with the friggen things. You totally hi jacked and took over the entire board with this crap, now people have come back to post and talk pool, go take a hike.

 

[pooljunkie73]

Larry why don't you please shut the f#ck up already. If you don't like this thread...don't read it.

Kent Mc.

 

[classiccues]

Turkey, did you not read what the people said, take your cue repair crap off the main board and put it in your internal newsletter or go on a sub board. Nobody gives a she yet about how you repair cues. We just play pool with the friggen things. You totally hi jacked and took over the entire board with this crap, now people have come back to post and talk pool, go take a hike.

Hey is this the same Fl who said he was leaving 1000x? Also did you happen to see the name of this thread and that it was started with the blessing of AZ billiards.. Why don't you take your drivel and your totally bogus claims and take them to a sub board.. or start your own thread "Talk to Psycho Larry". It will be the shortest thread the board has seen.

One other thing.. did I read where you support something made in Thailand? Did you know Thailand has more kids in prostition and sweatshops than any place else on the pacific rim? and you want to blast elephant killers? Nice job pal..

Joe (---FL "Fast Larry" hell no "Fruit Loop" most likely

 

[prewarhero]

enough already

I have never attacked anyone on this board. Nor, do I think I have said anything negative about anything. But, I just can't keep my big fat mouth shut any longer. The way I see it, there was a nice discussion on cue repair, until Larry started in with attacks and name calling. I refuse to call people names or belittle someone. So, I will try and tap dance around this. Thread after thread, and post after post, I see name calling and attacks, but most off all, senseless quarrel and a tic for tac game. GROW UP. If I made some posts, that others have made, I would be really embarrassed. If you don't stop acting like an absolute child, I will not return to this forum. Just think before you post. Is this helping the thread or am I just opening my mouth to be a moron? It is clear there is a battle between two users, and it is clear that one just tries to antagonize the other with post after post after post. People have said "shut up" with no avail.
The best I can say is: Larry, if you are a true leader in the sport, and a representative of the best in the game, then please act like it. There must be some strong self-esteem issues residing deep inside, but if you are a champion, then there is no need for that then is there? I have never met, nor spoken to Blud, EVER! It is ridiculous to think that blud would give free cues, as you claim. Blud is a clear asset to this board and I would hate to see your ramblings lead him away from here.
Larry, I am not attacking you. I would just like to see adults act like adults so this forum can thrive. I don't think that is too much to ask for. DO YOU??????????????

 

[Cybercup]

I'm going to order my first custom cue but I got entangled with large number of custom specificationsas. As I've been playing only with serial cues I didn't think much about such things so I have some questions about types of joints/ferrules.

What advantages has brass screw over others?
What is the major difference between Ivorine 3 and Ivor-x ferrules?
What advantages and disadvantages have Linen Fiber and Phenolic joints?
What kind of joint/ferrule would you prefer and why?

Please reply or post a link to a site where I can find the answers.

Thank you in advance.

 

[carlton31698]

Larry why don't you please shut the f#ck up already. If you don't like this thread...don't read it.

Kent Mc.

Hey I have a great idea Larry you don't post on cue topics and Blud will not post on trick shot topics.
So Larry just let it go. Blud is giving useful information to those that want to learn about cue making. I for one hope he keeps posting about building cues. At least we can learn something.
Blud dont respond to Larry,and mabey he will leave you alone.

 

[Joseph Cues]

Hey I have a great idea Larry you don't post on cue topics and Blud will not post on trick shot topics.
So Larry just let it go. Blud is giving useful information to those that want to learn about cue making. I for one hope he keeps posting about building cues. At least we can learn something.
Blud dont respond to Larry,and mabey he will leave you alone.

Larry has the symptoms of a sociopath.
He's not invited to the party so he tries to spoil it.
Get over it Larry. Grow up and leave this thread alone.
Everyone here appreciates this thread.

 

[blud]

super/billiards/expo

Larry has the symptoms of a sociopath.
He's not invited to the party so he tries to spoil it.
Get over it Larry. Grow up and leave this thread alone.
Everyone here appreciates this thread.

Hey Joseph, are you going to the suoer/billiards/expo???
Let me know. We can discussd more about cues and ferrules, without an interuption from you know who.
blud

 

[Jon]

Different Ferrules

Blud,

At the list of being labeled a "dealer" and with hopes of getting a free cue , i would like to ask another question, and get this thread going again. So here she goes:

What kind of ferrule offers a solid medium (or medium-soft/medium-hard) hit and feel, and delivers the ball well, and i believe you use LBM (linen based Melamine) ferrules, and from my experience (only one ferrule ), it was really hard, and i had only .500" of the shaft out of the chuck (1.500" counting the ferrule), and it still pushed off, and i was only taking around a few thousands off at a time, and slowly at that, and it was a new bit (actually it was an indexable carbide bit, that was just rotated to a fresh side, gotta love those things...), and the hit was hard, and i found it hard to play with (i am used to the CT ferrule that came standard on my Pechauer, That i love, even though it's a SS piloted Joint...) I am wanting to try Micarta, but the blanks from atlas are crap, and i am contacting different people to get quotes on some rolled and molded micarta (they offer paper, linen, cloth, and glass epoxy reinforced) rods. In short, what ferrule would you recommend for the above parameters.

Thanks

Jon

P.S. I asked another cuemaker (that is questionable, i won't give his name, but i would like to know more about this guy, send me a pm) that wouldn't tell me a thing about ferrules, acted like choice of ferrules was protected by the CIA...

P.S.S The expo is drawing closer as we type, and it's almost a sure thing that i will not be able to attend, after you get back and settled back in, would i be able to order the point jig (with veneer jigs) and some Blud tips???

 

[Jon]

Dammit blud... i wanted the first post on the 6th page lol , you beat me too it... you must type fast....

Thanks

Jon Ha He, Ha He, Ha He

P.S. I'm really getting hungry... I know a good mexican place on the corner, and it's calling my name... ummm Arroz con Pollo (con queso)...