Ask The Cuemaker Topic

Michael Webb said:
Just curious, what's wrong with the micarta from Atlas.
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out of the 4 i have TRIED to use, all 4 have split (delaminate... if you will), and the last two, i tried to bore the hole (after drilling starter hole) and it still split, when i tried to tap it (plug, then bottom tap), and even atlas knows they are a problem, they are not going to sell anymore of them after the current supply is exhausted, saying too many people are having problems??? Have you used it, and/or have you had any problems with it???

Thanks

Jon
 
Cybercup said:
My dear guys,

can you please answer my questions. :(

Thank you.
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Well, most of the answers to those questions are subjective, you could post on what cues you currently have, and what you like/dislike about them, and maybe someone would help you out.

Thanks

Jon
 
Cybercup said:
I'm going to order my first custom cue but I got entangled with large number of custom specificationsas. As I've been playing only with serial cues I didn't think much about such things so I have some questions about types of joints/ferrules.

What advantages has brass screw over others?
What is the major difference between Ivorine 3 and Ivor-x ferrules?
What advantages and disadvantages have Linen Fiber and Phenolic joints?
What kind of joint/ferrule would you prefer and why?

Please reply or post a link to a site where I can find the answers.

Thank you in advance.
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Brass screw is a little lighter than SS steel.
Ivorine 3 has weave in it, I believe it's paper. Ivor-X has no paper or linen in it and is non-porous and will not abrorb chalk unless scratched really hard.
Phenolic is linen-based resin impregnated material.
I prefer Ivor-x ferrule and buckhorn collars or capped ivory.
 
Thank you for replies.

In fact I can't say what I like/dislike because I have been shooting only with serial viking/predator and I dont know anybody that has a cue with the options that I want to try. So I have to find enough information to make the right choice. I have sent my inquiry to Mr Jackson of the Viattorre cues but he hasn't answered yet.

Thank you.
 
Cybercup said:
Thank you for replies.

In fact I can't say what I like/dislike because I have been shooting only with serial viking/predator and I dont know anybody that has a cue with the options that I want to try. So I have to find enough information to make the right choice. I have sent my inquiry to Mr Jackson of the Viattorre cues but he hasn't answered yet.

Thank you.
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did you receive the PM i sent you?
 
jigs

Joseph Cues said:
Blud, do you make jigs to cut v-point on a small lathe too?
Thanks.
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Hi Joseph, how small? I can do it, but need to know a couple of things.
1.- how high is the center of the spindle above the ways [lay a straight edge across the ways and measure up] 2.- what is the lenght of your lathe, from chuck nose to live centers point?
Normally, the cue would face the chuck.[ top towards the chuck]. With a small lathe it may have to face the tail stock, as would the taper bars. This would pose a little problem, but I could work around it.
blud
call if need be.
830-232-5991
 
head stock

Joseph Cues said:
Blud, I am trying to acquire a 9 by 24 South Bend right now.
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Joseph, that will not be a problem. Just make sure you have a big spindle hole. [Not for cutting vee points] just for drilling and boring handles, and fronts. You might already be set up for that anyway.
keep-um-comin
blud
 
blud said:
Even if he taps the hole, instead of grind cutting the threads, the hole must be of the right size.
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Blud,

Not coming from a machining background and having started performing cue repairs, I'm not familiar with this. Could you elaborate a little on grinding threads as opposed to tapping them? I know it's better to bore the hole than drill it out, but when you are working towards a 5/16" thread I'm not sure what you would use to "grind" it. Thanks for sharing the light with us heathens.
 
:D How do you drown a blond on a shallow swimming pool?
You place mirrors at the bottom.
My bad.
 
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Single point threading has a tool in the shape of the thread that is held in the toolpost. For each revolution of the lathe spindle, it moves the pitch of the thread (the thread to thread distance). This results in a spiral cut that becomes the thread.

Thread grinding is the same concept, but it replaces the stationary tool with a rotating tool cut to the same shape of the thread. So instead of cutting, which takes multiple passes and is very slow, it grinds the thread away. This is much more accurate and leaves a much cleaner thread. In fact, it wood, it is very difficult to cut the thread (wiht a single point tool) without the wood tearing. But grinding the thread leaves excellent results.

If you are using a metal lathe (as opposed to a cue repair lathe), and it has a threading gearbox, you can easily thread grind. Just make a holder to mount a dremel in your toolpost, then make or buy the cutter and thread the hole (or outer diameter) just like you would with a single point threading tool.

In the attached image, the tool would be spinning, and would advance one thread distance to the left for each revolution of the lathe spindle.

Nick.
 

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Duh! Thanks Jon.
Blond moment.
I threaded the inside of our ferrules. It's 5/16 18 inside.
The cutter is 1/4 and we threaded around 20 thou deep each side. :rolleyes:
 
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Joseph Cues said:
Duh! Thanks Jon.
Blond moment.
I threaded the inside of our ferrules. It's 5/16 18 inside.
The cutter is 1/4 and we threaded around 20 thou deep each side. :rolleyes:
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don't say i never gave you anything (beside's that cyber slap) lol

Thanks

Jon
 
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