Backhand English at Speed

Colin Colenso

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I was thinking about how when we play hard (speed) shots we have to aim thinner with OE than the low speed line, and thicker with hard IE.

That's because of the effects of swerve and throw being reduced at speed.

Therefore, it would make sense to slide our bridge hand forward more, past the pivot point when hitting high speed backhand english shots. Shortening the bridge length leads to thinner OE shots and as luck would have it, thicker IE shots.

I do believe I have noticed this when playing, that I hit some BHE shots with OE too thick (undercut) and some IE shots too thin (overcut) when hitting them hard. Though I haven't the years of experience with BHE as others here may have.

As speed shots tend to tempt us toward using a longer bridge, it may be worth keeping in mind.

Has anyone adapted this method (of shorter bridge length with power), or noticed this tendency (to miss thick with OE and thin with IE at speed)?
 
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No.

Unfortunately, I haven't always paid much attention to exactly what is happening when I've played in the past. I've thought about things alot when I'm not playing, but when I'm playing I seem to always just want to play. I've recently started to take the game a little more seriously,(like I wasn't before!!! :) lol.) and unfortunately again, I'm stuck down here at GTMO till DEC so I can't try out any of this stuff while really paying close attention. I'll have some feedback once I get back and can start playing on some tables again.
 
Jaden said:
Unfortunately, I haven't always paid much attention to exactly what is happening when I've played in the past. I've thought about things alot when I'm not playing, but when I'm playing I seem to always just want to play. I've recently started to take the game a little more seriously,(like I wasn't before!!! :) lol.) and unfortunately again, I'm stuck down here at GTMO till DEC so I can't try out any of this stuff while really paying close attention. I'll have some feedback once I get back and can start playing on some tables again.
Thanks for the feedback anyway Jaden:cool:

When you do get to practice you can try this.

Set up a 3/4 ball angle pot. Use a 10 inch bridge and play some soft shots OE and IE using backhand english alignment.

Then play exactly the same way shooting with increasing speed and take note if the OE shots are starting to go thicker (undercut) and the IE shots are going thinner (overcut).

Then do the same thing with a 5-6" bridge.

I expect you'll find the hard shots will go more into the center on these, but the soft shots will be offline.

It will depend on the pivot point of the cue you are using, but I expect you'll see there is this variation between soft and hard shots that requires a "Speed Adjusted Bridge Slide" (The SABS System):p
 
for it to be accurate.

Yeah, ok I'll try it. I think that most people who try it, wouldn't be able to know for sure what's causing it because of difference in stroke between hard and soft shots.

Therefore, I think we need to get some people who KNOW that they have really straight strokes, and that people who are trying it pay close attention to how they are stroking the ball to ensure consistency.

I'll try it probably while I'm at Marissa's pool hall, or rather the one she suggested I go to while I'm in Georgia.
 
Jaden said:
Yeah, ok I'll try it. I think that most people who try it, wouldn't be able to know for sure what's causing it because of difference in stroke between hard and soft shots.

Therefore, I think we need to get some people who KNOW that they have really straight strokes, and that people who are trying it pay close attention to how they are stroking the ball to ensure consistency.

I'll try it probably while I'm at Marissa's pool hall, or rather the one she suggested I go to while I'm in Georgia.
Actually, I don't believe the stroke plays any significant part at all in the direction the CB takes and its effects.

The whole point of Backhand English is that by hitting the CB anywhere, left or right, the shot will be made, so long as the bridge hand is placed in the correct position during alignment.

Tuck and Roll (swiping) may come into play a little but it isn't very significant in my books. Anyone can basically stroke the cue well enough to avoid major swiping.

It's my belief that the biggest benefit in having a very straight stroke is that it helps with visualizing alignment, whatever system one uses. It helps you to place your bridge in the right position.

As a test, we could tape a mechanical bridge into a set position, with CB and OB placed on definite points. If they are aligned right to begin with, almost anyone could walk up an make that shot, hitting left, right, centre, draw, follow, poke, dink, swipe, swoosh or yip.
 
I haven't found that to be the case.

If you think about it. If you were to swipe across or actually change the trajectory of the Cue from a straight line to a curve as you are stroking through the ball you will minimize or maximize the contact time depending on the direction by causing more or less slip between the Cuetip and the CB.

You would have to, because the reasoning that some people use for using a curving trajectory is to create additional spin. The only way that it would create additional spin is by maintaining contact for less time if pulling in the same direction as the side you are putting spin on.

So either there is a lesser portion of the tip making contact with the CB or it is making contact for less time.

I have found that the only time I miss using BHE is when my stroke deviates from the desired stroke line. I have used predators, hit harder softer etc. I haven't noticed any misses Except when I don't stroke straight. As I have stated in the past it's possible that I'm subconsciously adjusting, but I don't think I am.
 
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Jaden said:
If you think about it. If you were to swipe across or actually change the trajectory of the Cue from a straight line to a curve as you are stroking through the ball you will minimize or maximize the contact time depending on the direction by causing more or less slip between the Cuetip and the CB.

You would have to, because the reasoning that some people use for using a curving trajectory is to create additional spin. The only way that it would create additional spin is by maintaining contact for less time if pulling in the same direction as the side you are putting spin on.

So either there is a lesser portion of the tip making contact with the CB or it is making contact for less time.

I have found that the only time I miss using BHE is when my stroke deviates from the desired stroke line. I have used predators, hit harder softer etc. I haven't noticed any misses Except when I don't stroke straight. As I have stated in the past it's possible that I'm subconsciously adjusting, but I don't think I am.

Sure, swiping creates additional spin on the CB, and even will change the CB line to a small degree, which becomes significant only on longer shots I believe.

That said, it takes conscious effort to swipe enough for these effects to become significant. I think almost anyone can make a cue move through straight enough such that swipe is insignificant if they attempt to do so.

I know many people think they are missing because they stroked poorly at the shot, but I think it is an illusion.

When we miss, we can often intuitively feel we are not online, and this often results in second guessing with the cue action. It feels like a force is pulling us away from cueing straight. But I feel this is just our instinct trying to compensate for our bad initial alignment, our bad placement of bring position.

Fact is, it is damn hard to explain how a bad cue action, a slight pull across can significantly influence the path of the CB, and hence the OB. Yet I often see guys missing pots by a diamond and then blame their cue action. It's simply impossible unless they moved their bridgehand during the shot. The cause of their error could have been predicted by the placement of their bridge.

Anyway, experiment a bit and keep this in mind and see what you come up with. I think you'll find that accurate bridge point positioning is 98% of the aiming game. How to get it on that right line (or point when it comes to BHE), there in lies the aiming dilemma:eek:
 
Most times I agree with you Colin.

Whie most of the time I agree with you Colin, this time I'm afraid I'm going to have to agree to disagree. I think the opposite is what actually takes place. I think that people miss because they don't trust their initial aim and misstroke rather than try to compensate because their aim is intuitively off.

Oh well that's the wonderful thing about this forum, well about people like you and me on this forum. We can disagree but not take each others heads off even though we do.

However, I will try some different tests once I get back to the states and see what's really going on. Thanks for the insight.
 
Jaden said:
Whie most of the time I agree with you Colin, this time I'm afraid I'm going to have to agree to disagree. I think the opposite is what actually takes place. I think that people miss because they don't trust their initial aim and misstroke rather than try to compensate because their aim is intuitively off.

Oh well that's the wonderful thing about this forum, well about people like you and me on this forum. We can disagree but not take each others heads off even though we do.

However, I will try some different tests once I get back to the states and see what's really going on. Thanks for the insight.
No problemo....look forward to your feedback after you get to make a few tests and think about it a little.:D

btw: If you haven't read much a pivot points, which is the basis for explanation of the effectiveness of BHE aiming, you could try a search on these threads. Then if you still think that the stroke is the main factor, you might try to come up with an explanation for how it changes the line of the CB, by how much and under which conditions.

That's some homework for you while you're waiting to play:D

Others are welcome to enter this discussion btw, I hope the back and forth b/w Jaden and I expanded upon the idea raised in my original post and its implications.
 
Colin Colenso said:
Actually, I don't believe the stroke plays any significant part at all in the direction the CB takes and its effects.
Colin, I don't think this is true, generally speaking. It would only be true if the typical cue had a squirt pivot point at the bridge hand, but I think for most cues it's well behind the bridge.

The tolerances for cue direction are surprisingly small. A spot shot requires that you make contact with the cueball within a band about .005" wide (tenth of a millimeter). A cue with a pivot point at twice the player's bridge length would roughly double this, but then swerve tends to cancel this gain out. A shot four times easier than a spot shot requires that the cue's direction is such that the tip touches the cueball within 1/100" (quarter of a millimeter) to either side of the exact spot for a center pocket drop. What's hard to figure is how we manage to actually keep the cue moving this straight. It also underlines the importance of a steady bridge.

I think your idea about shortening one's bridge length is valid for the reasons given. Many players (including myself) may think this helps to reduce the effect of play in their strokes, when in fact the mechanism you've described may be at work in many cases.

Jim
 
Colin Colenso said:
I was thinking about how when we play hard (speed) shots we have to aim thinner with OE than the low speed line, and thicker with hard IE.

That's because of the effects of swerve and throw being reduced at speed.

Therefore, it would make sense to slide our bridge hand forward more, past the pivot point when hitting high speed backhand english shots. Shortening the bridge length leads to thinner OE shots and as luck would have it, thicker IE shots.

I do believe I have noticed this when playing, that I hit some BHE shots with OE too thick (undercut) and some IE shots too thin (overcut) when hitting them hard. Though I haven't the years of experience with BHE as others here may have.

As speed shots tend to tempt us toward using a longer bridge, it may be worth keeping in mind.

Has anyone adapted this method (of shorter bridge length with power), or noticed this tendency (to miss thick with OE and thin with IE at speed)?

Colin,

I think this is an interesting train of thought, but I wanted to clarify a few things that I didn't think were clear enough in this or the BHE thread:

1) To be clear, BHE does NOT reduce deflection, it merely puts the error from deflection back onto the line of the shot. While it's true that hitting the cue on an oblique angle will reduce the time the tip is in contact with the cue, that actually doesn't make it deflect LESS, it makes it deflect MORE. The more obliquely you hit it, the more it deflects back to the line of the shot if you hit it with center ball, thereby correcting itself. The correct pivot point for BHE is the point at which the deflection error = pivot error. This changes with different cues but is usually about 18 inches back from the tip. So it is not where your typical bridge might be although on shorter shots the margin for error is probably large enough to get away with this.

2) pure sidespine does not create swerve on the cueball. For there to be swerve, the shot must be struck below or above center. A ball struck lower left will swerve LEFT and a shot struck upper left will swerve RIGHT, at a much lower rate. I had to test this for about four hours before I believed it.

3) By throw I am assuming you mean the effect of the cue ball on the object ball. This effect relates inversely to two factors, speed and angle, assuming the spin on the CB is the same. The slower the speed of the CB and the straighter the shot, the more throw is created. Hard shots have less of a throw effect and so you actually have to aim further outside to hit the OB to the point where you were throwing it to.

I think the effects you are seeing are the result of throw as you stated, but for pure IE and OE shots, swerve should not be a factor.

For combination of top/bottom side spin, I don't think moving the pivot point will work by itself, because as stated above, bottom and top create opposite swerve errors.

What I do when I use BHE is adjust my contact point to allow for throw and swerve and and line up straight on that line then pivot. That way the CB is put on the path necessary to pocket the OB with the english imparted.

Thanks for the thought provocation.

As an aside, I recently was talking about this with a well-known professional. He told me that while BHE was okay, he never used it becaues if he lined up right and stroked well, (i.e. parallel english) didn't generate enough deflection to make him miss even long shots on a 4 1/2 X 9' table, even with tight pockets. His opinion was that BHE introduced more error than it cured.

After using BHE for a long time, I didn't believe him, but we spent an hour convincing me that it was true. Now I use either/or as the situation calls for and I make most everything no matter what english I need to use.

Cheers,
RC
 
Colin Colenso said:
I was thinking about how when we play hard (speed) shots we have to aim thinner with OE than the low speed line, and thicker with hard IE.

That's because of the effects of swerve and throw being reduced at speed.

Therefore, it would make sense to slide our bridge hand forward more, past the pivot point when hitting high speed backhand english shots. Shortening the bridge length leads to thinner OE shots and as luck would have it, thicker IE shots.

I do believe I have noticed this when playing, that I hit some BHE shots with OE too thick (undercut) and some IE shots too thin (overcut) when hitting them hard. Though I haven't the years of experience with BHE as others here may have.

As speed shots tend to tempt us toward using a longer bridge, it may be worth keeping in mind.

Has anyone adapted this method (of shorter bridge length with power), or noticed this tendency (to miss thick with OE and thin with IE at speed)?


BINGO!!!!

Someone had posted about this very thing on one of the forums a few months back. It really does work.

Generally thinking, you do use a longer bridge to generate power. With backhand english, however, I find using a longer bridge(for power shots) results in a missed pot. Back hand english with a short bridge(6" give or take) for power shots is a deadly accurate combination.I generally like to use this power method when the balls aren't that far apart, say within 4 ft.

On other (longer) power shots I prefer to use tuck and roll english or straight through standard english to get the job done.


A long bridge (10"- 14") works great with BHE for real slow finnesse shots(the shorter the better) and is great for inside check sidings.
Once again conventional thinking tells one to use a short bridge for finnesse shots and this is true, however with BHE (for me) we are talking apples and oranges compared to what you would do with standard english.JMO

Set up a slow finnese shot with BHE and a long bridge and watch the ball take (supreme)stuff and the object ball get potted.

In Summary:

When the other poster posted this info some people(may have) thought he was crazy and others diregarded it entirely.I was open-minded to give it a chance on the practice table and found it to be a wonderful piece of learned knowledge.

It will take some practice getting used to the slow stuff, however, the short bridge power(short shots) shots seemed to work almost immediatly.This posted info may not work for everyone, however, I believe it is worth at least a 1/2 hour try on the practice table to find out if it is for you................. and your cue.
RJ

ps. and your stroke,grip, set-up, etc etc etc
 
Jal said:
Colin, I don't think this is true, generally speaking. It would only be true if the typical cue had a squirt pivot point at the bridge hand, but I think for most cues it's well behind the bridge.

The tolerances for cue direction are surprisingly small. A spot shot requires that you make contact with the cueball within a band about .005" wide (tenth of a millimeter). A cue with a pivot point at twice the player's bridge length would roughly double this, but then swerve tends to cancel this gain out. A shot four times easier than a spot shot requires that the cue's direction is such that the tip touches the cueball within 1/100" (quarter of a millimeter) to either side of the exact spot for a center pocket drop. What's hard to figure is how we manage to actually keep the cue moving this straight. It also underlines the importance of a steady bridge.

I think your idea about shortening one's bridge length is valid for the reasons given. Many players (including myself) may think this helps to reduce the effect of play in their strokes, when in fact the mechanism you've described may be at work in many cases.

Jim
Jim,
You may be right that many people play with their bridge forward of the pivot point, and so where they strike the CB becomes more significant.

It seems to me that knowing the pivot point of one's cue is hence very important and it would be helpful to have a cue with a reasonable short pivot point, say around 8-10 inches.

An important question is this:
If, when bridging at the pivot point, hitting the CB 2 tips right or left send the CB along almost the same line, then is the deviation when hitting 1/4 tip off our aim point going to be significant? How much deviation will be caused by a slight swiping into the CB?

My experience is that these deviations are not much compared to my lack of ability to align. I used to think the opposite was true, but have changed my mind by focusing on this subject during practice.

Colin
 
Sixpack,
A few comments below:
sixpack said:
Colin,

I think this is an interesting train of thought, but I wanted to clarify a few things that I didn't think were clear enough in this or the BHE thread:

1) To be clear, BHE does NOT reduce deflection, it merely puts the error from deflection back onto the line of the shot. While it's true that hitting the cue on an oblique angle will reduce the time the tip is in contact with the cue, that actually doesn't make it deflect LESS, it makes it deflect MORE. The more obliquely you hit it, the more it deflects back to the line of the shot if you hit it with center ball, thereby correcting itself. The correct pivot point for BHE is the point at which the deflection error = pivot error. This changes with different cues but is usually about 18 inches back from the tip. So it is not where your typical bridge might be although on shorter shots the margin for error is probably large enough to get away with this.
I agree, BHE is really an aiming system that compensates for the effects of CB deflection (squirt)...and can also compensate for throw and swerve if adapted according to a system.

I don't think the contact time point, as raised by Jaden is relevant nor proven...if it has been I missed it.

I doubt most pivot points are so far back. When my bridge gets to about 14 inches, with side, I notice the CB deviates right when struck with left side. At six inches, it clearly deviate left when struck with left side.


2) pure sidespine does not create swerve on the cueball. For there to be swerve, the shot must be struck below or above center. A ball struck lower left will swerve LEFT and a shot struck upper left will swerve RIGHT, at a much lower rate. I had to test this for about four hours before I believed it.
Swerve is produced on non-directional cloth my a vertical component in the spin. Hence, lower shots are more likely to swerve more. I think it is very hard to hit up into a topspin shot, but at least swerve should be less a factor on follow shots with side english.

I've never heard of follow with English swerving in the opposite direction. I doubt it, but I've been wrong before:eek: :D

3) By throw I am assuming you mean the effect of the cue ball on the object ball. This effect relates inversely to two factors, speed and angle, assuming the spin on the CB is the same. The slower the speed of the CB and the straighter the shot, the more throw is created. Hard shots have less of a throw effect and so you actually have to aim further outside to hit the OB to the point where you were throwing it to.
Actually, there is good evidence to suggest that the degree of throw increases for thinner angles.
See here...some good diagrams for this discussion:
http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/pool/technical_proofs/new/TP_A-14.pdf

I think the effects you are seeing are the result of throw as you stated, but for pure IE and OE shots, swerve should not be a factor.
A lot of OE shots are played slow and with draw, (swerving becomes significant) and this does create a habit of aligning considerably thicker.
For combination of top/bottom side spin, I don't think moving the pivot point will work by itself, because as stated above, bottom and top create opposite swerve errors.
As stated above, there is clearly some difference, but opposite? I haven't seen this exact point brought up before.

What I do when I use BHE is adjust my contact point to allow for throw and swerve and and line up straight on that line then pivot. That way the CB is put on the path necessary to pocket the OB with the english imparted.

Thanks for the thought provocation.

As an aside, I recently was talking about this with a well-known professional. He told me that while BHE was okay, he never used it becaues if he lined up right and stroked well, (i.e. parallel english) didn't generate enough deflection to make him miss even long shots on a 4 1/2 X 9' table, even with tight pockets. His opinion was that BHE introduced more error than it cured.

After using BHE for a long time, I didn't believe him, but we spent an hour convincing me that it was true. Now I use either/or as the situation calls for and I make most everything no matter what english I need to use.

Cheers,
RC
I've said elsewhere that I don't believe their is any significant difference in where the cue and bridge get to for what is called parallel english and backhand english.

I'd like to see a diagram that shows two different bridging postions, same bridge length, with cues on different lines contacting the same OB at the same point (let's say two tips left), that could send the CB in the same direction.

It would seem to contradict the basic laws of physics as we understand them!:eek:

I think they are just different alignment methods that bring us to the same location. The only difference is the angle of the placement of the bridge hand.

I think BHE is a very useful and potentially accurate tool, but it needs compensation factors for such things including speed of hit, top or bottom, pivot point and possibly degree of side, humidity, cut angle and possibly more.

Potentially all these could be compensated for with an adjustment in bridge length, hence any shot could played by first lining up as a center ball hit with a bridge length pre-adjusted.

Colin
 
recoveryjones said:
BINGO!!!!

Someone had posted about this very thing on one of the forums a few months back. It really does work.

Generally thinking, you do use a longer bridge to generate power. With backhand english, however, I find using a longer bridge(for power shots) results in a missed pot. Back hand english with a short bridge(6" give or take) for power shots is a deadly accurate combination.I generally like to use this power method when the balls aren't that far apart, say within 4 ft.

On other (longer) power shots I prefer to use tuck and roll english or straight through standard english to get the job done.


A long bridge (10"- 14") works great with BHE for real slow finnesse shots(the shorter the better) and is great for inside check sidings.
Once again conventional thinking tells one to use a short bridge for finnesse shots and this is true, however with BHE (for me) we are talking apples and oranges compared to what you would do with standard english.JMO

Set up a slow finnese shot with BHE and a long bridge and watch the ball take (supreme)stuff and the object ball get potted.

In Summary:

When the other poster posted this info some people(may have) thought he was crazy and others diregarded it entirely.I was open-minded to give it a chance on the practice table and found it to be a wonderful piece of learned knowledge.

It will take some practice getting used to the slow stuff, however, the short bridge power(short shots) shots seemed to work almost immediatly.This posted info may not work for everyone, however, I believe it is worth at least a 1/2 hour try on the practice table to find out if it is for you................. and your cue.
RJ

ps. and your stroke,grip, set-up, etc etc etc
Hi RJ,
Good to get your feedback...I must have missed where another poster brought this idea up.

It's interesting you mentioned using tuck and roll (swiping) when playing BHE at speed. Swiping basically has the same effect as shortening the bridge hand.

That's a useful tool to keep in mind when you're looking for maximum english or confronted with a situation where an object ball may prevent taking a shorter bridge.

Colin <--Not alone:p
 
First off the real pivot point is shorter than most peoples bridges unless you are using a Predator shaft. I wouldn't know about those I've never used one and don't think I ever will. Try hitting a shot very firm with english. Keep adjusting your bridge length until you make it. The pivot point will be very short, probably around 4-5". This will vary with different shaft sizes, tip radii and taper. The reason for a longer bridge at slower speeds is because of the increased effect of swerve. I believe deflection does not change with speed (could be wrong here). I know swerve changes.

Parallel english does not work by itself. If you line up your cue exactly parallel to the center ball hit it will cause you to miss 90% of the time. There has to be a compensation for speed, distance and amount of english. Again we are not talking about Predators.

Another thing to realize here is that you get more sidespin for draw shots than you do when using topspin. The amount of spin is directly proportional to how low the cue ball is hit. So you will get more swerve the lower you hit on the cue ball.

Someone mentioned that there is no swerve for straight right or left english. This is absolutely not true. Please do not state your opinion as fact if you do not know what you're talking about. I'm really sick of wading through all the fallacies posted on this board as the truth.

BHE does not work for all shots at all speeds but it does give you a point to start from. You can adjust from there. Someone else mention to me that they will pivot their whole body instead of just their back arm so they can stroke normally.
 
mnShooter said:
Someone mentioned that there is no swerve for straight right or left english. This is absolutely not true. Please do not state your opinion as fact if you do not know what you're talking about. I'm really sick of wading through all the fallacies posted on this board as the truth.

.

I got it from Jack Kohler's "the science of pocket billiards". In that book he sets it up and measures it scientifically to determine the effects of different types of English. The proof that he demonstrates is pretty convincing. Perhaps you could post some proof as to why you think it's not true instead of just stating it to be true and saying other people don't know what they're talking about. If the cloth is high-nap, the nap can add a negligible amount of swerve, but not enough that it's meaningful in this conversation.

Cheers,
RC
 
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Colin Colenso said:
Sixpack,
A few comments below:


I don't think the contact time point, as raised by Jaden is relevant nor proven...if it has been I missed it.

I agree, I just mentioned it as an aside.

Colin Colenso said:
I doubt most pivot points are so far back. When my bridge gets to about 14 inches, with side, I notice the CB deviates right when struck with left side. At six inches, it clearly deviate left when struck with left side.

It changes with each cue. My information on that is about 12 years old, perhaps cue construction has changed.

Colin Colenso said:
Swerve is produced on non-directional cloth my a vertical component in the spin. Hence, lower shots are more likely to swerve more. I think it is very hard to hit up into a topspin shot, but at least swerve should be less a factor on follow shots with side english.

I've never heard of follow with English swerving in the opposite direction. I doubt it, but I've been wrong before:eek: :D

I should clarify this. Think about parallel english first. The swerve is created by the force created by the kinetic friction between the cue ball and the cloth. With bottom left english, the bottom of the cue ball is pushing right against the cloth, which makes it go left. If you hit topspin, the bottom of the cueball is moving the opposite way, making it go right. Because the direction of spin is helping the cue ball move instead of fighting it, the resultant vector is not as far off of straight, but it will move right.

Colin Colenso said:
Actually, there is good evidence to suggest that the degree of throw increases for thinner angles.
See here...some good diagrams for this discussion:
http://www.engr.colostate.edu/~dga/pool/technical_proofs/new/TP_A-14.pdf

When I saw you referred me to Dr. Dave, I thought how could Dr. Dave possibly be so wrong? Then I realized that you were talking about collision-induced throw and I was talking about spin-induced throw. Since we were talking about BHE I thought that the contact point chosen would already account for CIT, so I thought you were referring to SIT.

Yes, CIT does increase for larger cut angles.

Colin Colenso said:
A lot of OE shots are played slow and with draw, (swerving becomes significant) and this does create a habit of aligning considerably thicker.

As stated above, there is clearly some difference, but opposite? I haven't seen this exact point brought up before.

I've said elsewhere that I don't believe their is any significant difference in where the cue and bridge get to for what is called parallel english and backhand english.

I'd like to see a diagram that shows two different bridging postions, same bridge length, with cues on different lines contacting the same OB at the same point (let's say two tips left), that could send the CB in the same direction.

It would seem to contradict the basic laws of physics as we understand them!:eek:

When you start getting in the area of two tips off center, then you do need to adjust. His point was that for most shots, the amount of deflection from parallel (assuming that you are aiming correctly) is negligible compared to the margin of error. Like I said, I didn't believe him until he spent an hour convincing me on the table.

Colin Colenso said:
I think they are just different alignment methods that bring us to the same location. The only difference is the angle of the placement of the bridge hand.

I think BHE is a very useful and potentially accurate tool, but it needs compensation factors for such things including speed of hit, top or bottom, pivot point and possibly degree of side, humidity, cut angle and possibly more.

Potentially all these could be compensated for with an adjustment in bridge length, hence any shot could played by first lining up as a center ball hit with a bridge length pre-adjusted.

Colin

I agree with that. By the time you start analyzing all of it and figuring out everything though, won't your system become much more complicated and contain more opportunities to introduce errors than just judging those factors to begin with? :)

Cheers,
RC
 
mnShooter said:
First off the real pivot point is shorter than most peoples bridges unless you are using a Predator shaft. I wouldn't know about those I've never used one and don't think I ever will. Try hitting a shot very firm with english. Keep adjusting your bridge length until you make it. The pivot point will be very short, probably around 4-5".
I doubt this. The figure Sixpack quoted, 18", is probably more like it.

mnShooter said:
... I believe deflection does not change with speed (could be wrong here). I know swerve changes.
This is what Mike Page found with his preliminary tests

mnShooter said:
Another thing to realize here is that you get more sidespin for draw shots than you do when using topspin. The amount of spin is directly proportional to how low the cue ball is hit. So you will get more swerve the lower you hit on the cue ball.
You get a greater spin/speed ratio, but the spin itself is not necessarily any greater. It may be a little greater because of increased contact time, but I think the larger effect is the reduction of speed on the way to the object ball due to the draw, and the tilting of the spin axis forward (or backward) due to the more downward approach angle of the stick. Because of these, as you say, you do get more swerve.

Jim
 
sixpack said:
....Think about parallel english first. The swerve is created by the force created by the kinetic friction between the cue ball and the cloth. With bottom left english, the bottom of the cue ball is pushing right against the cloth, which makes it go left. If you hit topspin, the bottom of the cueball is moving the opposite way, making it go right. Because the direction of spin is helping the cue ball move instead of fighting it, the resultant vector is not as far off of straight, but it will move right.
I think Colin is right. Even with topspin, you're still hitting down on the cueball and the swerve will be in the same direction as the english. It takes an unusual setup to enable you to hit upwards on the cueball, like setting it atop a cube of chalk.

Jim
 
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