Banking with the Beard
- Thread starter pfduser
- Start date
Geometrically, no, but most bar tables do not have optimal cushions on them. They can be soft or hard or the cloth stretched over them too tightly or not tight enough. As far as they systems themselves, there is no difference between a bar table and a 9' table. All other things being equal, you should be able to take the shots from one to another easily.
Quick edit here... if a bar table your on banks a little short or a little long, you should be able to determine that very quickly and adjust the shots to compensate for it. So if you're missing a cross side bank, via the system, a little short, then just adjust the shot a little long. Usually, you can count on if one bank shot is going short, they all will and vice versa.
Later,
Bob
Quick edit here... if a bar table your on banks a little short or a little long, you should be able to determine that very quickly and adjust the shots to compensate for it. So if you're missing a cross side bank, via the system, a little short, then just adjust the shot a little long. Usually, you can count on if one bank shot is going short, they all will and vice versa.
Later,
Bob
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Geometrically the tables are the same but the distances are different. I haven't tried anything from the book on a bar box so can't say for sure, but I would think some of Freddys adjustments would need to be adjusted a little (ex. 1/2 tip instead of full tip english). Best to wait for Freddy to respond or PM or e-mail him. I'd be interested in the answer.
Terry
Terry
I seemed to have some of the same trouble working with shots on my 8' table. However the problem could be me. I will say that I have not worked through the book fully or diligently and it has improved my banking a lot. I am not good and don't practice banking all that much. But the other day I played a rack of short rack banks and ran 4, 2, and 2 then made the last one on a nice bank. Yeah I had some misses in there. But that is a major improvement from the rail beating I was doing before. Never ran 4 before. Also made a killer cross bank the other day that surprised me. I am going to work with the book some more and keep on banking as The Beard suggests.;-)
The bar table is at my house and does play a little short on some off the more common angles and I also play with a standard cue ball.I start having problems with the 2,3,and 4 railers.Some of them are off as much as 2 and 3 diamonds.I am interested to see if anybody has used these systems on a bar box and had to major adjustments.kyle said:
A bar table is a bar table unless it is a Diamond
Bar tables are an semi-inferior form of pool table. The cloth is very cheap, and is glued on rather than stretched and tacked. The cushions are nowhere near a K-66 standard. The slate is not slate, and few tables are actually twice as long as they are wide. Unless you have a Diamond 3 1/2 x 7 bar table (which is standard to all the professional bigger sizes in every way) you are going to have to make adjustments. However, bar tables are still pool tables, and I banked good enough on them to beat guys like Buddy Hall, One-Eyed Tony Howard, etc. The principles in my book are sound, but you must map out your particular bar table and note the minor adjustments you will have to make. Notice I said, minor. Like someone else suggested earlier, you may need to use only 1/2 tip of English instead of 1 whole tip, or measure in 1/8ths of diamonds instead of 1/4 diamonds. I cant be more specific than that because the bar table manufacturers do not make one standard type table, they all play a little different. That's why bar pool champs were so hard to beat on their home court. But once you find the key to your particular table (longer, shorter, harder, easier, etc.) you'll start banking the eyes off them balls.
the Beard
Bank on, brother!
(Incidentally, Banking With The Beard is going to be published in the People Republic of China -- the only American Billiards intruction book to do so. I will soon be enlightening 2 billion communists.)
pfduser said:
Bar tables are an semi-inferior form of pool table. The cloth is very cheap, and is glued on rather than stretched and tacked. The cushions are nowhere near a K-66 standard. The slate is not slate, and few tables are actually twice as long as they are wide. Unless you have a Diamond 3 1/2 x 7 bar table (which is standard to all the professional bigger sizes in every way) you are going to have to make adjustments. However, bar tables are still pool tables, and I banked good enough on them to beat guys like Buddy Hall, One-Eyed Tony Howard, etc. The principles in my book are sound, but you must map out your particular bar table and note the minor adjustments you will have to make. Notice I said, minor. Like someone else suggested earlier, you may need to use only 1/2 tip of English instead of 1 whole tip, or measure in 1/8ths of diamonds instead of 1/4 diamonds. I cant be more specific than that because the bar table manufacturers do not make one standard type table, they all play a little different. That's why bar pool champs were so hard to beat on their home court. But once you find the key to your particular table (longer, shorter, harder, easier, etc.) you'll start banking the eyes off them balls.
the Beard
Bank on, brother!
(Incidentally, Banking With The Beard is going to be published in the People Republic of China -- the only American Billiards intruction book to do so. I will soon be enlightening 2 billion communists.)
freddy the beard said:
I had a Diamond 7 foot table w/860 Simonis cloth. It was an awesome table with very unforgiving pockets as they were "pro cut". The rails were extraordinary and I would put them up against any rail on any other table made! I obtained Freddy's book and applied his systems to the table no differently than illustrated. They worked great and improved my banking considerably. I then upgraded my Diamond seven footer to a new Diamond nine foot Professional with 860 Simonis cloth. The table came with 1 & 1/2 inch slate. It banks awesome and Freddy's system works almost every time and when it does not, I make a mental note if it came up short or long. Freddy is right when he says missed banks are usually missed consistently long or short and the proper adjustemnt with tip width side spin or deeper cut or lesser cut angle? The system itself is not fool proof however, it beats anything else I have ever come across on instructions about banking. Freddy is soon to have a follow on to his book and when I talked with him at the DCC, he said it was being proof read and should be out soon. By the way, priot to learning Freddy's system, my high run in banks was six balls. Within two months of reading about how to apply proper speed, cut and spin to control collision induced throw from Freddy's book, and doing daily diligence to my daily practice sessions, I have had two runs of seven balls and one of nine balls. At the DCC, I had two runs of four each and one run of five. I would have been out except I scratched on the break and owed one. I won the game in the next inning.
As Freddy would say, "Bank On Brother"
Cross Side Larry
"Learn from the best, and beat the rest"
Contact info
JG-in-KY said:
Would you recommendthis book to someone who plays primarily UK 8ball?
(small tables, lighter balls, no diamond markings etc)
The opinions on this book appear to be very complimentary but my big worry is that the book is going to be tailored to calculations using a variation of the diamond system.
(small tables, lighter balls, no diamond markings etc)
The opinions on this book appear to be very complimentary but my big worry is that the book is going to be tailored to calculations using a variation of the diamond system.