Beginner that needs help finalizing decision!

JoshKC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ive been trolling the forum for quite some time / using every search function on here and google with multiple variations of most questions!

Quick background: Had a pool table in my basement for about 4 years now and just casually used it to play with friends, playing on my own, etc. Just have standard balls / 4x sticks it came with, which until recently have been fine (i guess?).

I'm looking now to invest in some sort of upgrade (+/- $100), I'm a broke college kid FWIW that just like to play and even i know these cues this table came with are horrendous, and i'm starting to take the game much more serious / want to get better and am looking for just an all around stick i can grow on (will be using this cue for everything except for breaking and jumping cause i figure that must damage a stick?)

I've narrowed my choices down to either a Player or Schmelke..

I have been reading the Player Sneaky Pete can be a good value / starter:
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/plcuesnpesp.html - is what I've been looking at and was wondering what people thought / if any of those "optional tip changes" would b worth the extra money.

As far as Schmelke is concerned I've been looking at the..
http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cues/schmelke/schmelke_sneaky_pete_cues.htm
http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cues/schmelke/schmelke-m-series.htm
http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cues/schmelke/schmelke_pool_cues_pg1.htm

Obviously the cues in there around $100... but for the life of me and all the research I've done (i can feel this next sentence is going to get me flamed hard, im hoping not *crosses fingers*).. cannot figure out what the difference between Schmelke's sneaky petes, s series, m series, BW & T series, etc differences are since they all seem to be around the same price.. is it strictly looks? And again those tip changes Schemelke offers make it worth getting one when I buy one of their sticks?




Thank you to anyone that helps me in advance!!
 
I started with a players. But by the time I got it I was an above average C player.
If you can get out and test the cues? But that most likely wont happen, since they are lower grade and no one who knows what they are doing will be carrying it around[although it is possible, since I do].

You can look at viking as well, and every once in a while there are cues around your price range on the wanted/for sale.

If you can save up some money I would suggest going for a brand called Poison, I just sold one other wise Id offer it. They are affordable and shoot well, I believe there is a vx2.9 on the w/fs.

I know its kinda rambling but here in simple.

Check out viking, and poison. There is a poison in the w/fs section, and if you cant save up players shoot well HXT or regular.

Good luck with your search
 
will be using this cue for everything except for breaking and jumping cause i figure that must damage a stick?

no, not really. It maybe makes the tip mushroom some the first few times you do it if its a soft tip, but once its compressed down that stops happening too. I know someone who has a 30 year old cue + shaft that plays frequently that uses it to break...

Only one of my butt/shaft combos I don't break with, and that's because it was turned down to 10.75mm and the ferrule is pretty thin on it, so easy to crack.

I've narrowed my choices down to either a Player or Schmelke..
Obviously the cues in there around $100... but for the life of me and all the research I've done (i can feel this next sentence is going to get me flamed hard, im hoping not *crosses fingers*).. cannot figure out what the difference between Schmelke's sneaky petes, s series, m series, BW & T series, etc differences are since they all seem to be around the same price.. is it strictly looks?

basically yes. When you are talking all the cues within that price range, the only real variance is looks. If you were in the $300 price range a $20-30 difference between cues could make more functional differences - ie a fancier looking $300 cue might come with a plainer shaft, but a plainer looking $320 cue might come with a higher performing or low deflection staff.

And again those tip changes Schemelke offers make it worth getting one when I buy one of their sticks?

no. You are talking about 10% of the purchase price to upgrade to a not that much better tip. Wait till the first time you need to replace the tip then have someone local put a better tip on.
 
For the money it's tough to beat the cuetec R360. They don't play bad. I'm not a fan of production cues for the most part, but If I were on a budget of $100 give or take I would shop around to find one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cuetec-...587?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256fcccc5b

This one seems to work good for Shane. He had his shaft retapered a little and then bent it up some. Plays lights out now!

best,

Justin
 
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I've been very happy with my Players HXT10. It comes with a Kamui Soft tip at no extra charge. But it runs about $130.
 
If you can find a straight old Canadian maple Dufferin sneaky pete on Ebay or in a pool hall, that would be the way to go, imo.
 
Schmelke makes their own spliced blanks. Because it takes a lot of skill and machinery to do this they also sell this product to "custom" cue builders. This is not mentioned much here. So other than paying for a better tip (maybe) and a known name stamped on the butt or maybe a plastic Hoppe ring what is the real upgrade? They make a nice Sneaky Pete. You can even get the one with high grade wood for $140. Or pay someone $400 for his name. Hey, just sayin'.
 
First:

You'll be able to get a perfectly fine pool cue for around 100.00. Try not to pay attention to the 300.00-30,000.00 pool cue discussions.

I've used (according to some) low grade pool cues and have moved up to mid range so I have some experience in this price range.

If you get a stick with a hard tip then feel free to break with it. I wouldn't break with a soft tip. It's more maintenance/trouble then it's worth and you'll probably always have a house cue around.

I've never used a Player cue but I've owned a custom Schmelke and my wife is shooting with one now. Schmelke's are NOT bad cues just because they're cheap.

I would focus about 0% on the look of your first cue and about 100% on how it feels to you. Really make an effort to find a place that will let you try a few cues out. Some places won't (I'll never understand this) and some will. Don't go crazy with the stick you haven't paid for just gently chalk it and hit the cue ball around the table. Does it feel funny? Does it feel fine?

The only characteristic I'd suggest you pay attention to is weight. As a new(ish) player I'd go for something in the 18-19oz range.

Taper, tip type, inlays, wood type, joint type etc aren't vitally important at least right now. Right now you want a straight cue that feels good in your hands. You can gamble and order from the internets and you may find something good but you'd be doing yourself a huge favor test driving some first.

As for deals? Keep an eye out on AZ in the for sale section. Yeah there will be a ton of stuff out of your range but you will see some in the 100ish range. If someone lists a "brand x so and so" just google it and see what it's worth and if you can find any reviews. Same thing with your local craigslist.

Take your time and don't settle. Pool is such a psychological game (with yourself) that you're way better off getting a no name or off brand that others dislike rather then a name brand that the cool kids like.
 
Schmelke makes their own spliced blanks. Because it takes a lot of skill and machinery to do this they also sell this product to "custom" cue builders. This is not mentioned much here. So other than paying for a better tip (maybe) and a known name stamped on the butt or maybe a plastic Hoppe ring what is the real upgrade? They make a nice Sneaky Pete. You can even get the one with high grade wood for $140. Or pay someone $400 for his name. Hey, just sayin'.

This is not entirely true. There is a bit more work than a "plastic ring" a high grade shaft goes a lot further than a fancy butt anyway. Most customs worth buying have WAY higher grade shafts than the average Schmelke.

It's tought to beat the cheap end of the LD shaft world. They are NOT junk, they are cheap, AND they play pretty well!

best,

Justin
 
Buy Made In U.S.A

My opinion, buy made in USA. I will for my next choice. I am on a tight budget and have been looking in the 100 to 150 range and found some interesting choices in the production market. I am looking at Viking's Vallhalla , Schemelke and McDermott. "Looking" is the operative word here as I haven't been able to get any of these in my hands yet. For this price area, a life time warranty is also a bonus. I've given away at least 8 big box imports cause they just don't hold up.
 
My opinion, buy made in USA. I will for my next choice. I am on a tight budget and have been looking in the 100 to 150 range and found some interesting choices in the production market. I am looking at Viking's Vallhalla , Schemelke and McDermott. "Looking" is the operative word here as I haven't been able to get any of these in my hands yet. For this price area, a life time warranty is also a bonus. I've given away at least 8 big box imports cause they just don't hold up.


It's funny that you mention import cues not holding up. It's not import cues that don't hold up. It's cheap junk cues. They make plenty of POS cues at the three places you mentioned. Buying made in USA doesn't always mean made well. I would be willing to bet those three manufacturers import there maple from Canada.

In the $100-150 range I'd try to find a good used JOSS. If new, I'd go Cuetec R360.


best,

Justin
 
Wow!! I appreciate all the extra info it looks like i still have some more research to do. My worry with buying used is that i guess im scared of getting a used or beat up product and not being able to return it. I would be more inclined to buy a used one off someone on this site vs ebay tbh.

Is there any sort of census on the players sneaky pete vs a schmelke?

Or what specific schmelke series people would suggest particularly?
 
Wow!! I appreciate all the extra info it looks like i still have some more research to do. My worry with buying used is that i guess im scared of getting a used or beat up product and not being able to return it. I would be more inclined to buy a used one off someone on this site vs ebay tbh.

Is there any sort of census on the players sneaky pete vs a schmelke?

Or what specific schmelke series people would suggest particularly?

different retailers will take back cues that have been used. i know ozone will. like stated earlier schmelke makes their own blanks where I do not think players does. players is made over seas and schmelke in wisconsin. the difference in the schmelke sneaky series are the looks of them. some are made of different woods that cost a little more than other hence the price. I would recommend any schmelke. they are a great company and make good products.

either cue you buy will do what you want it to and will be a good buy for you. choose which one you think fits your personality better. :)
 
My opinion, buy made in USA. I will for my next choice. I am on a tight budget and have been looking in the 100 to 150 range and found some interesting choices in the production market. I am looking at Viking's Vallhalla , Schemelke and McDermott. "Looking" is the operative word here as I haven't been able to get any of these in my hands yet. For this price area, a life time warranty is also a bonus. I've given away at least 8 big box imports cause they just don't hold up.

Viking Valhalla cues are made in China. This does not make them bad cues-just not US made.
For a $100 I would buy a Schemelke 1st and a Players cue 2nd.
Buying used on AZB can be a gamble. I would only buy from someone here that has a good and long I-Trader rating. I certainly would not buy used off of E-Bay.
 
different retailers will take back cues that have been used. i know ozone will. like stated earlier schmelke makes their own blanks where I do not think players does. players is made over seas and schmelke in wisconsin. the difference in the schmelke sneaky series are the looks of them. some are made of different woods that cost a little more than other hence the price. I would recommend any schmelke. they are a great company and make good products.

either cue you buy will do what you want it to and will be a good buy for you. choose which one you think fits your personality better. :)

im starting to lean towards Schmelke.. the US made is very appealing to me compared to something thats going to b made overseas.. i assume china?

that and i dont think of the hundred of comments i've read.. anyone every said anything particularly bad about a schmelke?
 
im starting to lean towards Schmelke.. the US made is very appealing to me compared to something thats going to b made overseas.. i assume china?

that and i dont think of the hundred of comments i've read.. anyone every said anything particularly bad about a schmelke?

i dont recall seeing a bad comment about schmelke. they are good sold cues for the money. I still have a 30 year old schmelke that my dad bought. :wink:
 
I'm gonna suggest a Fury as an inexpensive all around cue, you can get a good stick for under $100 and then you'll have some consistency in your shots and you won't be spending a fortune. They are well made in China, but so are Predator.. when you get out of college and can afford a nicer cue, that's when you'll be able to pick and choose.
 
http://www.shootersbilliards.com/Schmelke-Pool-Cue-S1.html

This is where I ordered my old one from:
Go with the S series if you want no wrap
Go with the SP series if you want a wrap

18 oz
12.5 on the tip/shaft (it's a little slimmer and will do you some good)
Shaft type: laminated (it'll give you less deflection and that's a good thing)
stained/laminated if you want it to match the butt.
joint: 5 16/18 is a common joint so later you can change out the shaft but keep the butt. Some people like the uni loc but I don't.

You can add a leather wrap or pearl pieces but that'll add to the price without adding to the functionality.

If you're on the taller side (say over 6 ft) and you find yourself holding on to the end of your pool cue then add an inch or two to knock off that bad habit and have a better stroke.


Wow!! I appreciate all the extra info it looks like i still have some more research to do. My worry with buying used is that i guess im scared of getting a used or beat up product and not being able to return it. I would be more inclined to buy a used one off someone on this site vs ebay tbh.

Is there any sort of census on the players sneaky pete vs a schmelke?

Or what specific schmelke series people would suggest particularly?
 
http://www.shootersbilliards.com/Schmelke-Pool-Cue-S1.html

This is where I ordered my old one from:
Go with the S series if you want no wrap
Go with the SP series if you want a wrap

18 oz
12.5 on the tip/shaft (it's a little slimmer and will do you some good)
Shaft type: laminated (it'll give you less deflection and that's a good thing)
stained/laminated if you want it to match the butt.
joint: 5 16/18 is a common joint so later you can change out the shaft but keep the butt. Some people like the uni loc but I don't.

You can add a leather wrap or pearl pieces but that'll add to the price without adding to the functionality.

If you're on the taller side (say over 6 ft) and you find yourself holding on to the end of your pool cue then add an inch or two to knock off that bad habit and have a better stroke.

hmmmm now thats a little different.. from most people i've talked to they've told me just get a 19oz and a 13mm tip since thats basically the standard? any reason for light n smaller?
 
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