Best Break cue < $200

B

banshee28

Registered
I am looking for the best performing hardest hitting break cue for the money. I could care LESS about looks, inlays, etc. I want quality just enough to where its performing good and lasts a reasonable amount of time.

I was thinking of a cheap Players with a Phenolic Ferrule and tip, but not sure if thats the best route. I don't want to spend much, just want something really good for the money!!
 
I don't hear a lot about them on this site but I have a Lightning Bolt and I love it. I will say this however, if you are not a hard power breaker I don't think you will like it. Mine only weighs 12.1 oz. Thats not a typo, 12.1 oz! My experience with these cues is the people who put a lot of power into the break love these cues once they get used to them.It is a bit of an adjustment going to that light of a cue. As far as a jump cue is concerned, I've tried just about all of them and this one jumps better than I'll ever use it for.
 
DiamondDave said:
I don't hear a lot about them on this site but I have a Lightning Bolt and I love it. I will say this however, if you are not a hard power breaker I don't think you will like it. Mine only weighs 12.1 oz. Thats not a typo, 12.1 oz! My experience with these cues is the people who put a lot of power into the break love these cues once they get used to them.It is a bit of an adjustment going to that light of a cue. As far as a jump cue is concerned, I've tried just about all of them and this one jumps better than I'll ever use it for.
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Hmm, I briefly looked around and seen one online. They look ok, and are super light like you say 12.1 oz!! I am starting to break harder, and use a light 18oz playing cue so I would be interested in trying it....And it seems to be a good jumper as well.....
 
DiamondDave said:
I don't hear a lot about them on this site but I have a Lightning Bolt and I love it. I will say this however, if you are not a hard power breaker I don't think you will like it. Mine only weighs 12.1 oz. Thats not a typo, 12.1 oz! My experience with these cues is the people who put a lot of power into the break love these cues once they get used to them.It is a bit of an adjustment going to that light of a cue. As far as a jump cue is concerned, I've tried just about all of them and this one jumps better than I'll ever use it for.
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Where can I get this type of light cue?? are they full graphite??
 
It is a maple shaft with a hollow graphite butt. I sell them at my store but I'd say any of the big pool websites should have them. They retail at $229 so you'll see them listed for $183.20.

Dave
 
Here's a suggestion I got when I advertised almost exactly the same requirements:
bruin70 said:
go to your local poolroom, pick a cue that has DARK prominent straight grain,,,,and/or curly figuring in the shaft area. buy it for $20, change the ferrule to aegis, get a compreme or buffalo hard tip.
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I'm thinking of having this done just to try it out, sounds like a really good idea :)
 
For the money

You ought to try a J&J j/b. I have had a bunch, liked every one. Sold a few, no complaints ever.
 
forgot to mentioon

RascalDoc said:
You ought to try a J&J j/b. I have had a bunch, liked every one. Sold a few, no complaints ever.
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The only ones I have tried were the all maple ones. Players j/b's work well also.
 
Before I got my Predator break cue (worth every penny if you've ever got the money) I used an Excalibur 18 oz cue. I despise graphite, so I made sure to get an all-wood cue. I replaced the ferrule with a Titan and I put a Tiger break tip (any super hard tip will work) on in place of the original tip. To be honest, it hit like a Mack truck, and I loved it.

You can find some nice Excaliburs on eBay for less than $50 and the ferrule and tip replacement will run you about another $30 or so, depending on who you go through and what you get. Actually, go to www.poolndarts.com (the Mueller's homepage) and request a catalog. In there, they offer professional cue service, including tip and ferrule replacement. The setup I described on my Excalibur would cost $25 and it's a trusted name, so you know they will do quality work. After it's all said and done you could end up with a hell of a break cue for less than $100.
 
Another vote ...

for J&J. I have one with 2 shafts with less than a $100 invested including shipping. I also bought one for my brother.
 
J&j

Steve R said:
Where can I get a J&J?

Thanks,
Steve
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Steve ... Send a PM (private message) to 'Chrisonline'. The second one I bought from him, and excellent service, 2 day delivery. I have the the 2419 model number which is the basic 4 pointer with Palmwood forearm. Chris will fix you up fast.
 
Walmart used to sell a gray titanium cue that breaks quite well and it's well below the $200. I personally use a Dufferin Phantom (sneaky pete) ... it hits like the telephone pole it is, and is also well under the $200 mark (heck both these cues are less than $100) !

Dave
 
DaveK said:
Walmart used to sell a gray titanium cue that breaks quite well and it's well below the $200.

Dave
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And just what part of that cue is Titanium?:rolleyes:
 
rackem said:
And just what part of that cue is Titanium?:rolleyes:
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I don't understand why you included the sarcasm emoticon in the above question, but I think that both the butt and the shaft are tapered titanium tubing. The one I tried hit very well, although some less open-minded folks may find the sound annoying.

Here is a link : http://www.bostocks.com/billiards/titanium.htm

Dave
 
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rackem said:
And just what part of that cue is Titanium?:rolleyes:
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The grey, titanium colored paint, of coarse. There is a Pool room here in town that I visit occasionally and the owner showed me a cue some home machinist had turned. It was completely metal and the owner thought it was titanium but I told him that actually it was stainless steel. This was a nice looking cue but it weighed around 7 or 8 pounds and definitely was not titanium.

Titanium is expensive and can be very hard to work if you don't know how to machine it. Here in Cincinnati, if you have a little pull, titanium is fairly easy to get as the G.E. Jet Engines plant uses tons of it and quite a bit doesn't end up in the part it was designated for.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
The grey, titanium colored paint, of coarse. There is a Pool room here in town that I visit occasionally and the owner showed me a cue some home machinist had turned. It was completely metal and the owner thought it was titanium but I told him that actually it was stainless steel. This was a nice looking cue but it weighed around 7 or 8 pounds and definitely was not titanium.

Titanium is expensive and can be very hard to work if you don't know how to machine it. Here in Cincinnati, if you have a little pull, titanium is fairly easy to get as the G.E. Jet Engines plant uses tons of it and quite a bit doesn't end up in the part it was designated for.

Dick
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Titanium tubing is not that expensive, there's only a few dollars worth of tubing in those cues. My quess is that these cues experience very little 'machining', instead I'd guess they glue in a joint and butt-cap. You are absolutely correct, titanium is tougher to machine than brass or leaded steel, and some alloys are tougher than others (ain't that always the way), but again I'm not so sure there is much machining on these cues, other than cutting.

I've been through the GE Jet Engine plant, it is some place. I recall it being about 5 exits off a freeway. They had quite an impressive data center, row upon row of Honeywell 77s and all the peripherals. The communications area was a mess, but that's the way we like it. I had to wait for a couple of days before messing with their network because the test bed (a huge room with running jet engines bolted to the floor apparatus) was conducting tests. WOW, what a place.

Dave, very serious about the material and hit of that cue, even in the face of some ridicule :p
 
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