I'm learning....what do you guys reccomend for drilling holes for pins and in shafts. I am using 3 flute solid carbide bits. Probably need new ones, so I look for your expertise.
Thanks in advance!
Rick
Thanks in advance!
Rick
Best drill for pins and shafts???
- Thread starter santeetech
- Start date
N drill, carbide spot drill, boring bar.
Most of the radial and 3/8 type pins(wood to wood) have around a .372 size. I use a .300 drill bit , after center bit to start hole , then I go in with a boring bar on my toolpost and true out the hole to a .342. This helps with putting the pins in MUCH straighter and gives you a pilot hole so to speak. If you just use a brill bit , the bit , believe it or not , Will follow the grains and go in offset.
You can go to MSC online and purchase boring bars very good priced.
Thanx and hope it helps ,
Jim Lee
You can go to MSC online and purchase boring bars very good priced.
Thanx and hope it helps ,
Jim Lee
Yeah, forgot...I am using boring bar to fine tune the hole for the collar.
"N drill, carbide spot drill"....don't know what they are, but will research.
Thanks, again!
"N drill, carbide spot drill"....don't know what they are, but will research.
Thanks, again!
I use a 5/16" DeWalt brad point bit from Lowes or Home Depot. No boring. I'm by no means saying boring is not good or does not give good results, just that I have never needed to. Brad point bits are designed for wood, to keep a bit running straight with no wondering. So long as it's sharp & you relieve chips as needed, you should have no problems. There's always more than one way to skin a cat, and so long as it gets skinned effectively who cares? I'm all about simplicity, K.I.S.S.
Eric Crisp
Sugartree Customs
Eric Crisp
Sugartree Customs
With radial pins with alignment barrels, you don't really need to bore the whole for the bottom threads. The bottom threads major is only about .364 anyway. The barrel is .372. So a little play at the bottom doesn't hurt as long as the alignment barrel's cavity/wall is dead nuts. That one I bore for sure.qbilder said:
I think a cnc carbide tipped 5/16 spot drill gives the brad point the 7.
JoeyInCali said:With radial pins with alignment barrels, you don't really need to bore the whole for the bottom threads. The bottom threads major is only about .364 anyway. The barrel is .372. So a little play at the bottom doesn't hurt as long as the alignment barrel's cavity/wall is dead nuts. That one I bore for sure.
I think a cnc carbide tipped 5/16 spot drill gives the brad point the 7.
I use a 3/8-10 flat bottom thread pin. I make them from brass. They are cut to tollerances equalling the bit, so everything fits nice. My alignment barrel is .372", fitting a .372" DRILLED hole. No room for glue, only on the bottom threads. Everything else is machine fit, nearly press. I tried the boring stuff, but found no advantage. My cues are straight & I match up multiple shafts with no ledge, so no need for me to change now. I might give the spot drill a chance if it ever strikes my interest, but the el-cheapo brad point bits do it for me. The cueball doesn't know if the joint hole was drilled or bored
I have been using parabolic cobalt drills and a boring bar to do mine. The parabolic bits seem to do a far better job of chip removal than any other standard bit I have used. Chris.
I've have done the spot drill, then carbide drill, 1/4" then used a Ti coated drill, to go to 5/16, it was all I had in that size. That's the drill that would wander off course. Now I use a spot, then a .200 cabide I got in a batch of ebay stuff, then use a 4 flute solid carbide 1/4" bit with a long cutting shaft. Goes thru like butter, and stays straight, then I tap from that, for a 3/8-10. i get very good threads doing that. Using the mill bit gives a very flat bottom, and chips come out the 4 flutes as you drill, then use a bottoming tap.
Dave
Dave
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I've tried a 4-flute flat bottom cutting 5/16 end mill as well.
After the rookie N drill, I followed with that.
End-mills don't wander on that hole. It laughs at wood.
With the spot drill, you can use it at the bottom of the hole if want just a little more clearance for the tap. It only has sharp bottom edges, nothing on the sides.
After the rookie N drill, I followed with that.
End-mills don't wander on that hole. It laughs at wood.
With the spot drill, you can use it at the bottom of the hole if want just a little more clearance for the tap. It only has sharp bottom edges, nothing on the sides.
I believe the cueball prefers IRWIN bradpoints.qbilder said:I use a 3/8-10 flat bottom thread pin. I make them from brass. They are cut to tollerances equalling the bit, so everything fits nice. My alignment barrel is .372", fitting a .372" DRILLED hole. No room for glue, only on the bottom threads. Everything else is machine fit, nearly press. I tried the boring stuff, but found no advantage. My cues are straight & I match up multiple shafts with no ledge, so no need for me to change now. I might give the spot drill a chance if it ever strikes my interest, but the el-cheapo brad point bits do it for me. The cueball doesn't know if the joint hole was drilled or bored
I use em for my bumper holes. Whap whap whap, clean bore. Done!
