Best glue to use for installing a new tip?
- Thread starter Comeback Kid
- Start date
The best without fail is Insta-Cure from Tiger Products. It is a cyanoacrylate glue that is not tempermental about the ferrule nor tip material.
> I had some glue problems a couple months ago,and attributed it to a bad bottle of Loctite Quicktite (the stuff in the bottle with the squeeze grips on the side) purchased at Wal-Mart. I solved this by getting the same glue from another Wal-Mart,and using a CA accelerator made by Testors. I seal the back of the tip with brush on CA,then sand the back smooth on a piece of 400 sandpaper glued to a flat steel plate,then coat the face of the ferrule,smear the glue around with the tip,clamp in place with my thumb,then take a small steel plate and beat the tip several times to force out all the air,then hit it with the accelerator. No more problems for me,but in case I do,I also have the Satellite City glues as well. Anyone have any input on the rubber-toughened glue that Cue Components sells? Tommy D.
Fred Agnir said:
Hey, thanks, Fred.
On the link, he said my varying of the pressure during drying time might allow air under the tip with the resulting problems. I haven't had any of the problems he mentioned as I don't think any air is getting sucked up under the tip becaue the glue is sealing the gap---and super gel doesn't need air anyway, right? I suppose that there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Anyway, still wondering if my "different strand lengths" theory holds...anyone?
Jeff Livingston
Fred Agnir said:
You know, that might be the reason why some of my last tips all had a maddening click to them. They never threatened to come off, not even close but there would be this very slight clicking on certain shots, depending on how I rotated the shaft.
-Roger
Yes, I also believe there is something to It. I clamp them while drying,does not take long, and after it sits for a few minutes, I take the shaft out hold It in my left hand, and slightly tap the center of the tip. This seems to help make sure the center bonds well also. Can't remember the last time one popped off on us, so i guess it does the trick.
Greg
Greg
Hi everyone:
I love this topic.
I use 454 gel as well.
I would like to share a few things I do which has really helped my tips to stay on. Any comment will be appreciated. Thank you.
1) I keep my glue in the fridge. Am I the only one doing it?
2) I do not tap it or squeeze out the glue. I believe there has to be glue between the tip and the ferrule for the tip to bond--when the tip is squeezed too hard, most glue are squeezed out and they are simply wasted doing absolutly nothing but making a big mess around the ferrule. I clamp it with a few rubber bands right after the tip is put on and then I just leave it.
3) I only apply glue on one side.
4) I leave the tip overnight before I trim it on my lathe. The gel seems to take a bit longer to fully cure so I just let it sit.
5) I think the most important thing is to have the surfaces completely flat. I believe this is the most important step and the rest do not really matter too much.
6) I believe it is also important to know the properties of various ferrule materials. I may be wrong but I think the moisture/oil content of each material affects the curing/setting time of the glue. For example, I find the 314 ferrule to react very differently as compared to for example, Aegis.
7) I use a tape to stick out all the dust/dirt on the bottom of the tip and the top of the ferrule after sanding before I apply my glue.
8) I think the gel results in a better hit than CA glue.
Any comment will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Richard
I love this topic.
I use 454 gel as well.
I would like to share a few things I do which has really helped my tips to stay on. Any comment will be appreciated. Thank you.
1) I keep my glue in the fridge. Am I the only one doing it?
2) I do not tap it or squeeze out the glue. I believe there has to be glue between the tip and the ferrule for the tip to bond--when the tip is squeezed too hard, most glue are squeezed out and they are simply wasted doing absolutly nothing but making a big mess around the ferrule. I clamp it with a few rubber bands right after the tip is put on and then I just leave it.
3) I only apply glue on one side.
4) I leave the tip overnight before I trim it on my lathe. The gel seems to take a bit longer to fully cure so I just let it sit.
5) I think the most important thing is to have the surfaces completely flat. I believe this is the most important step and the rest do not really matter too much.
6) I believe it is also important to know the properties of various ferrule materials. I may be wrong but I think the moisture/oil content of each material affects the curing/setting time of the glue. For example, I find the 314 ferrule to react very differently as compared to for example, Aegis.
7) I use a tape to stick out all the dust/dirt on the bottom of the tip and the top of the ferrule after sanding before I apply my glue.
8) I think the gel results in a better hit than CA glue.
Any comment will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Richard
DaveK said:
I generally use any longer setting epoxy that's readily availabe (90 min setting time). Currently this is the Loctite brand. But a few months ago I had to get a tip on fast and tried the 5 minute version (Loctite). Although it's not supposed to fully cure for 24 hrs, I played with it a few hours later and the tip is still holding fine.
I don't know what material the ferrule is made of, but I have no problem removing the epoxy with an Exacto knife. After doing so, I very lightly sand the ferrule with a sanding stick. The sanding stick helps keep the top of the ferrule flat and square, but I doubt that the sanding is even necessary.
Jim