Hello, what would be the very best glue to adhere/grip on slate, I want to try a little experience, to glue a hard plastic piece to the slate with a bolt threated in for the possibility of leveling system up and down, I want tro try from a moment, the plastic piece will be hard but a little flexible too and i will do some little dovetail on for a solid glueing.
Thank You!
Hello, what would be the very best glue to adhere/grip on slate, I want to try a little experience, to glue a hard plastic piece to the slate with a bolt threated in for the possibility of leveling system up and down, I want tro try from a moment, the plastic piece will be hard but a little flexible too and i will do some little dovetail on for a solid glueing.
Thank You!
Hello, what would be the very best glue to adhere/grip on slate, I want to try a little experience, to glue a hard plastic piece to the slate with a bolt threated in for the possibility of leveling system up and down, I want tro try from a moment, the plastic piece will be hard but a little flexible too and i will do some little dovetail on for a solid glueing.
Thank You!
Not a very lot but I trust that I will do well, I'm a good machinist and I have a lot of knowledge in many domain. My intention is to do one table first, we have 24 tables here. I want to put 11 support by end slate, all mounted with bolt that I will be able to push and pull, 9 all aroud the slate that the bolt will pass through the slate and two that I will glue the block support to the slate, one at seam and one right in the middle of the slate. The support will be bolted on the frame and and the bolt that pass through the slate will pass through the support with a flat washer and a nut on each side, I know that make a lot of support point but I want to married the slate to the frame. Made a little draw of the support, that take me 1 minute and half...
The table photo:
I want to put 11 support by the two end slate, all mounted with bolt that I will be able to push and pull, 9 all aroud the frame that the bolt will pass through the slate like the original counterbore hole(I will have to drill some more) and two that I will glue the block support to the slate, one at seam and one right in the middle of the slate. The support will be bolted on the frame and and the bolt that pass through the slate will pass through the support with a flat washer and a nut on each side, I know that make a lot of support point but I want to married the slate to the frame. Made a little draw of the support, that take me 1 minute and half...
Just a curious thought, if the wood frame moves (expansion and contraction) with the elamants. Wouldn't the slate move more at the through bolt points and cause some slate sag or rise? Possibly causing the need for constant adjustments?
I want to put 11 support by the two end slate, all mounted with bolt that I will be able to push and pull, 9 all aroud the frame that the bolt will pass through the slate like the original counterbore hole(I will have to drill some more) and two that I will glue the block support to the slate, one at seam and one right in the middle of the slate. The support will be bolted on the frame and and the bolt that pass through the slate will pass through the support with a flat washer and a nut on each side, I know that make a lot of support point but I want to married the slate to the frame. Made a little draw of the support, that take me 1 minute and half...
You use the rail bolts to pull the slate to the frame, you use the leveling system in line with each rail bolt to push up. You can't use slate screws to mount the slate to the frame of the table, because they prevent you from being able to level the slates after the table is assembled. Is rare that you ever have to pull the slate down for level, as the idea of leveling is to raise up the low areas, not pull down the highs, that's why this is an equal force system, pull down matches the push up.
I want to put 11 support by the two end slate, all mounted with bolt that I will be able to push and pull, 9 all aroud the frame that the bolt will pass through the slate like the original counterbore hole(I will have to drill some more) and two that I will glue the block support to the slate, one at seam and one right in the middle of the slate. The support will be bolted on the frame and and the bolt that pass through the slate will pass through the support with a flat washer and a nut on each side, I know that make a lot of support point but I want to married the slate to the frame. Made a little draw of the support, that take me 1 minute and half...
Not a very lot but I trust that I will do well, I'm a good machinist and I have a lot of knowledge in many domain. My intention is to do one table first, we have 24 tables here. I want to put 11 support by end slate, all mounted with bolt that I will be able to push and pull, 9 all aroud the slate that the bolt will pass through the slate and two that I will glue the block support to the slate, one at seam and one right in the middle of the slate. The support will be bolted on the frame and and the bolt that pass through the slate will pass through the support with a flat washer and a nut on each side, I know that make a lot of support point but I want to married the slate to the frame. Made a little draw of the support, that take me 1 minute and half...
The table photo: View attachment 711349
The cross members on the ends of that frame won't support the pressure point weight put on the dead center of them if you need to raise the center of the slates for being low. That's the same frame used on the Brunswick Medalist and new Anniversaries.
The cross members on the ends of that frame won't support the pressure point weight put on the dead center of them if you need to raise the center of the slates for being low. That's the same frame used on the Brunswick Medalist and new Anniversaries.
Do you think that the Rasson aluminium frame is stronger than a 2 1/4 X 6 1/2 inch laminated. I will put a member on the opposite side of the frame where the leveler will be fixed on the exterior side of the frame to avoid the frame to warp, that's the Rasson frame don't have.
Anytime your lift system is not in line with your pull down system, you're creating a situation of waves in the slate. Pulling down, NOT where you're lifting buckles the slate surface.
Do you think that the Rasson aluminium frame is stronger than a 2 1/4 X 6 1/2 inch laminated. I will put a member on the opposite side of the frame where the leveler will be fixed on the exterior side of the frame to avoid the frame to warp, that's the Rasson frame don't have. View attachment 711505
The upward force to raise the slate creates compression at the point of lift, the bottom of the frame suffers the stress force needed to keep the frame from sagging.
Anytime your lift system is not in line with your pull down system, you're creating a situation of waves in the slate. Pulling down, NOT where you're lifting buckles the slate surface.
The upward force to raise the slate creates compression at the point of lift, the bottom of the frame suffers the stress force needed to keep the frame from sagging.
Yess that's like all system work, how many pounds of force that need to bend the slate? Take de distance between the two corner fixation that will give you the length of the frame that will force or counterforce to lift or down the slate, is a pretty short length and I really think that's stronge more than enough to do the job!
A member puted on the opposite side of the frame where the leveler bracket are, strengthens the system maybe 4 time in avoiding the frame to warp, when I see the Rasson frame I really think that's a poor engineering design.
I will put a long bolt in the frame slate holes and a bit larger flat whasher than normal and fix these bolts to the slate with a nut, by these time the bolt will be strongly fixed to the slate after that the bolt will cross my leveling bracket that will be fixed on the frame but lower on the frame to give me access to the upper nut that will seat on top of the bracket and with the other nut on the bolt too under the bracket i will be able ton raise or down the slate.
I will put a long bolt in the frame slate holes and a bit larger flat whasher than normal and fix these bolts to the slate with a nut, by these time the bolt will be strongly fixed to the slate after that the bolt will cross my leveling bracket that will be fixed on the frame but lower on the frame to give me access to the upper nut that will seat on top of the bracket and with the other nut on the bolt too under the bracket i will be able ton raise or down the slate.