best sneaky pete wood combo

[spliced]

Cuemakers,

If you were to build a sneaky pete cue with a G10 pin, what wood combo would you recommend to use for the handle and forearm to keep the total weight around 19oz and balanced at 19" naturally without the use of weight bolts?

Thanks,
Ian

 

[JoeyInCali]

Bocote front, maple handle, some carbide dust under the pin. Fat forearm and thin handle.

 

[spliced]

thinking more along the lines of a fatter handle, like maybe 1.28

 

[1-pocket-player]

Bocote front, maple handle, some carbide dust under the pin. Fat forearm and thin handle.

Sounds pretty good. I'll take two.

-Andy

 

[Zims Rack]

I like purpleheart or bacote into maple forearm!

Zim

 

[qbilder]

With a G10 pin, you could go bocote front with ebony handle. This will make your butt around 15.2-15.4oz. Using 3.5oz. shafts will give you a nicely balanced & naturally weighted cue.

 

[Sheldon]

Ebony in front, tulip in back. :-0
Seriously, you will either need to core the front with something really heavy, or use ebony/coco or something similar to get any kind of forward balance.

 

[1-pocket-player]

With a G10 pin, you could go bocote front with ebony handle. This will make your butt around 15.2-15.4oz. Using 3.5oz. shafts will give you a nicely balanced & naturally weighted cue.

I think I'll take one of these too.

-Andy

 

[masonh]

i made a Tulip butt with Ebony front that had a G-10 pin and came in right at 19oz or mayber 19.1oz,however my joint and butt specs are slightly skinnier than most cues,and that wil remove a little weight.


balance point was 19.25"

 

[ridewiththewind]

i made a Tulip butt with Ebony front that had a G-10 pin and came in right at 19oz or mayber 19.1oz,however my joint and butt specs are slightly skinnier than most cues,and that wil remove a little weight.


balance point was 19.25"

That cue was the shiznit!

Lisa

 

[Retail1LO]

i made a Tulip butt with Ebony front that had a G-10 pin and came in right at 19oz or mayber 19.1oz,however my joint and butt specs are slightly skinnier than most cues,and that wil remove a little weight.


balance point was 19.25"

I love the idea of tulipwood in a fullsplice cue (i.e. a sneaky)...in either the forearm or the handle...but...speaking with one cuemaker...it sounds like tulipwood is one tempermental S.O.B. of a species with a propensity to warp/move. Anyone who's had success with using tulipwood in a fullsplice...was there anything special that you did that you feel may have led to the tulipwood being viable in making a fullsplice?

 

[bnall]

I love the idea of tulipwood in a fullsplice cue (i.e. a sneaky)...in either the forearm or the handle...but...speaking with one cuemaker...it sounds like tulipwood is one tempermental S.O.B. of a species with a propensity to warp/move. Anyone who's had success with using tulipwood in a fullsplice...was there anything special that you did that you feel may have led to the tulipwood being viable in making a fullsplice?

Heres the Masonh Tulipwood/Ebony cue. Its a monster player too!

 

[MINDSEYE153]

Heres the Masonh Tulipwood/Ebony cue. Its a monster player too!

That's a real pretty cue!

 

[masonh]

this was recently discussed in another thread and there were diffeent opinions.imo it is very difficlut to het Tulipwood that is completely dry or 6-8% range.i think maybe some have made splices with green wood only to see it rack or move,but if you can find it dry i have had good luck with no movement out of it.it is rated as a stable wood as well.

problem is 90% of it i come across is completely seald in wax and labeled "air dry".let me tell you that when they say air dry they basically mean not dry.