Best tip for diamond bar boxes

pw98

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When playing on some diamond bar boxes I have speed control issues but others I do not. The ones with the 860 I am fine. The ones with the 3030 I constantly overrun positions.

When on a 9 footer (brunswick or diamond) or 860 diamond bb I use a thinner predator victory medium (medium-hard). When on the 3030 diamond bar boxes I've been using a kamui black soft.

There is a major difference between my speed control on the 3030 between both tips. With the medium-hard tip I constantly overrun positions and lose games because of it. When I switch shafts to the soft tip my speed becomes much better but overrunning positions is still a bit of a problem. The main difference being my mistakes are more recoverable with the softer tip because when I overrun the results don' seem to be fatal as is the case with the harder tip where I completely butcher the position.

Anyways, the question is does anyone else have similar problems when switching between tables with vastly different speeds? And if so does changing tips help you as well?

Also, another question. Should I try a super-soft tip to see if I get even better results since the kamui black soft seems to help quite a bit? I only have 2 shafts and am a little reluctant to change the tip because I get alright results with the soft on the 3030 but my speed still leaves more room to be desired because on the 860 I actually have what I consider to be good speed.

Its probably worth noting that on the 9 foot diamonds w/ 3030 I play with the medium-hard tip and my speed is decent.
 
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In my opinion you are messing with stuff too much. Stick with one tip. Same make and hardness.
Adjust to the cloth/table.
When you warm up be very deliberate. Try to close in on perfect shape. After working through a few racks if you can't get the speed down I'm not sure even God could help you.
 
In my opinion you are messing with stuff too much. Stick with one tip. Same make and hardness.
Adjust to the cloth/table.
When you warm up be very deliberate. Try to close in on perfect shape. After working through a few racks if you can't get the speed down I'm not sure even God could help you.
The thing is this cloth is so damn fast compared to 860 which I've played on all my life. Add in fast diamond rails that are boinging a little from humidity and a small table and I just tend to overhit anything I try to finesse. Its really irritating.
 
The thing is this cloth is so damn fast compared to 860 which I've played on all my life. Add in fast diamond rails that are boinging a little from humidity and a small table and I just tend to overhit anything I try to finesse. Its really irritating.
That combination is very fast. Sometimes on quick tables or going from 9' to 7' trying to hit the object ball fuller takes some of the speed out of the cueball. Playing shape for fuller angles could help. Pool is a frustrating game, good luck.
 
When playing on some diamond bar boxes I have speed control issues but others I do not. The ones with the 860 I am fine. The ones with the 3030 I constantly overrun positions.

When on a 9 footer (brunswick or diamond) or 860 diamond bb I use a thinner predator victory medium (medium-hard). When on the 3030 diamond bar boxes I've been using a kamui black soft.

There is a major difference between my speed control on the 3030 between both tips. With the medium-hard tip I constantly overrun positions and lose games because of it. When I switch shafts to the soft tip my speed becomes much better but overrunning positions is still a bit of a problem. The main difference being my mistakes are more recoverable with the softer tip because when I overrun the results don' seem to be fatal as is the case with the harder tip where I completely butcher the position.

Anyways, the question is does anyone else have similar problems when switching between tables with vastly different speeds? And if so does changing tips help you as well?

Also, another question. Should I try a super-soft tip to see if I get even better results since the kamui black soft seems to help quite a bit? I only have 2 shafts and am a little reluctant to change the tip because I get alright results with the soft on the 3030 but my speed still leaves more room to be desired because on the 860 I actually have what I consider to be good speed.

Its probably worth noting that on the 9 foot diamonds w/ 3030 I play with the medium-hard tip and my speed is decent.

What weight cue are you playing with?
 
Layered tips are a gimmick. The glue layer will eventually leave fly specks of glue on the cueball. They should be outlawed. There are tips available in an entire range of hardness without the gimmick that leads to paying $30 for a defective tip. Of course they only cost a fraction of the miracle tips that will have you making miracle shots......well between the miscues when the glue releases and transfers to the cueball. Oh Yeah don't forget to clean the cueball, well and often. 🤷
 
Layered tips are a gimmick. The glue layer will eventually leave fly specks of glue on the cueball. They should be outlawed. There are tips available in an entire range of hardness without the gimmick that leads to paying $30 for a defective tip. Of course they only cost a fraction of the miracle tips that will have you making miracle shots......well between the miscues when the glue releases and transfers to the cueball. Oh Yeah don't forget to clean the cueball, well and often. 🤷
I have 6 different shafts for 3 different cues.
There is a mix o fsolid and layered tips on them and I cant tell any difference in how they play.
I think it's Triangles,Le Pros,a Sniper and an ultra skin.
 
So is he supposed to play on one size table for the rest of his life?
Read the post before you respond. Nothing about tip hardness has to do with size of the table and the speed of the table. All of them issues has to do with the person and their stroke.

A player needs to play on various sized tables and various speed cloth. A tip change is not going to make you a bar box specialist
 
In my opinion you are messing with stuff too much. Stick with one tip. Same make and hardness.
Adjust to the cloth/table.
When you warm up be very deliberate. Try to close in on perfect shape. After working through a few racks if you can't get the speed down I'm not sure even God could help you.
This x 1000!

I know plenty of players who have more cues than ability...
They are constantly messing with a setup... and wonder why they are not consistent.

Basic biology.
Humans have muscle memory.
We get better at things through repetition.
Translation: Practice, put the time in.

Adjusting what equipment you use too much messes with the variables.
Cue, tip, chalk etc...

Anyone, including Professionals I have seen, take a minimum of 3 months to adjust to a new setup.
Then, they rarely change.
Some are forced to by sponsors... but, not in Snooker.

As for adjusting from 9ft to 7ft tables, cloth, balls...
That is something that again, comes with practice.
Don't mess with stance, addressing the ball.

Play style and patterns remain the same, mostly... 7ft tables is more about touch and feel with breaking out clusters and 9ft is about playing for lines and areas... in my experience.
I often spend a week of solid practice, I mean 10 hours min, I have a job... so... moving from 7ft to 9ft or 9ft to 7ft.
That is just me, you adjust pace and get used to the conditions.
Again, secret is time and practice and muscle memory.
Effort is the key word.
 
What most have said here...dont overthink this....play better patterns, shoot into large position zones, or down the line shape so that speed is less of a factor
 
It is the stroke.

It is the tip.

If OP had one stick, he has a problem in that he has to figure out how to develop his stroke for one table without messing up the stroke he is comfortable with on the other table.

But, he has two, and both work with the stroke he has developed for one stick matched to one table/cloth. It works... don't screw with success.
 
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