Best tip for diamond bar boxes

In my opinion- controlled stroke acceleration is the key to managing the cue ball on super fast tables of any size. Even out the acceleration of the cue so that is becomes a more constant speed forward motion - sort of like when a baseball pitcher throws a great change- up - The cue tip gets to and through the cue ball at a very even pace throughout the stroke.
Mike summed it up best here, This is exactly, the only way you will be able to master this.
It don't matter what tip you got on, it's more likely your hitting the balls too hard.
The only way to adjust, is too learn to accelerate, slower through the cue ball. In other words, develop a slightly shorter stroke. So you can create more control, than you normally would. Bare in mind what I just described, ain't going to happen over night. Its going to take, hours and hours of practice. Even if your at decent level. It's just going to take time.
 
"he prefers the action he gets with a very soft tip on the CB with extremely soft shots"

This sentence is key. On these tables you constantly hit extremely soft shots as they have fast rails that are boingy from humidity and championship 3030 cloth which is faster than 760. The soft tip does help in these cases, for the same reason alex thinks it helps in one-pocket.
Don't confuse "action" with "speed".
 
Speed (energy transfer) is the only difference when it comes to tips.
Don't broad stroke all action that can be imparted on the CB with the label "speed". While you could simplify and say energy transfer is the only difference between tips. Labeling that "difference" with "speed" (especially within the context of this thread) is wildly inaccurate.

Are you looking for answers or just interested in imparting your personal incorrect wisdom...?
 
I suggested shortening up which I think you will find helps but it just occurred to me to ask a very basic question. Are you warming up at all before starting play? Try the old thing of hitting the cue ball across the table and back to the tip, and length of table and back to the tip. Now use those same shots to calibrate speed. Try to hit the rail and then go from back to the tip to a diamond short, then two diamonds short and so on the long way. Try the three rail shot normally used to check if a table is playing long or short. Can you stop the cue ball near the jaws of the pocket, then shorter and shorter, using the diamonds on the rails and calibrating the distance you are trying to shoot with known shots? Can you lag within six inches of the rail consistently? Practicing lags for ten minutes trying for within two inches of the rail is a good exercise too. Gonna have to grind a little.

If you can't make the speed of shots work with known distance shots you aren't going to be able to make speed work with the constantly changing distances of regular play. A plus on coin-op, the cue ball is usually free.

A quick story. I was going to play my first barbox tourney in many years. I spent an hour carefully calibrating my stroke to cue ball action. My game wasn't what it once was and I spent most of that hour adjusting to the Valley rails and cue ball to get spot shape since I had been exclusively a Diamond big track player for the few years since I came back to pool. Right before the tourney they swapped cue balls! Pretty common now but I didn't know that. So much for my last hour's work. Lots of people and few tables, I couldn't even spend a few minutes checking how this new cue ball played. I wasn't expecting to cash in this fairly big event so I just said the hell with it and rolled. Didn't do well!

Just some thoughts. Got to get the cue ball under control before working with how it plays off of other balls. One old time task master gave his students just the cue ball for a month. Then he gave them two balls, slowly adding balls as their skill increased. Sounds like a good way to learn not that most of us would have the patience to do it, including me!(grin) Just had a thought, this would be great to do learning three cushion or other pocketless billiard games.

Hu
 
I suggested shortening up which I think you will find helps but it just occurred to me to ask a very basic question. Are you warming up at all before starting play? Try the old thing of hitting the cue ball across the table and back to the tip, and length of table and back to the tip. Now use those same shots to calibrate speed. Try to hit the rail and then go from back to the tip to a diamond short, then two diamonds short and so on the long way. Try the three rail shot normally used to check if a table is playing long or short. Can you stop the cue ball near the jaws of the pocket, then shorter and shorter, using the diamonds on the rails and calibrating the distance you are trying to shoot with known shots? Can you lag within six inches of the rail consistently? Practicing lags for ten minutes trying for within two inches of the rail is a good exercise too. Gonna have to grind a little.

If you can't make the speed of shots work with known distance shots you aren't going to be able to make speed work with the constantly changing distances of regular play. A plus on coin-op, the cue ball is usually free.

A quick story. I was going to play my first barbox tourney in many years. I spent an hour carefully calibrating my stroke to cue ball action. My game wasn't what it once was and I spent most of that hour adjusting to the Valley rails and cue ball to get spot shape since I had been exclusively a Diamond big track player for the few years since I came back to pool. Right before the tourney they swapped cue balls! Pretty common now but I didn't know that. So much for my last hour's work. Lots of people and few tables, I couldn't even spend a few minutes checking how this new cue ball played. I wasn't expecting to cash in this fairly big event so I just said the hell with it and rolled. Didn't do well!

Just some thoughts. Got to get the cue ball under control before working with how it plays off of other balls. One old time task master gave his students just the cue ball for a month. Then he gave them two balls, slowly adding balls as their skill increased. Sounds like a good way to learn not that most of us would have the patience to do it, including me!(grin) Just had a thought, this would be great to do learning three cushion or other pocketless billiard games.

Hu
This sounds like a good thing to try. Thanks.

Last night I tried what glenn suggested and choked up on the cue on the softer shots and it along with the softer tip seemed to help a lot. My cueball speed improved significantly. I haven't tried the harder tip along with choking up yet and I suspect there will still be trouble unless I REALLY choke up far. The speed the CB comes off that thing just seems that much faster.
 
This sounds like a good thing to try. Thanks.

Last night I tried what glenn suggested and choked up on the cue on the softer shots and it along with the softer tip seemed to help a lot. My cueball speed improved significantly. I haven't tried the harder tip along with choking up yet and I suspect there will still be trouble unless I REALLY choke up far. The speed the CB comes off that thing just seems that much faster.

Pages before glenn another poster suggested you move your hand up on the cue, then move it up some more. I wonder who that could have been?(grin)

Hu
 
Pages before glenn another poster suggested you move your hand up on the cue, then move it up some more. I wonder who that could have been?(grin)

Hu
Thanks. I got so many responses it was hard to keep track of everything along with all the noise.
 
When a table is playing super fast, I just don't hit the ball as hard…
I'm sorry but that just shouldn't be allowed. The correct way to control speed is with multiple shafts with different tips.
If everyone adopted your method then a lot of these companies would go out of business. You're not a Communist are you?
I'm in favor of free shafts and tips myself but have leg problems and don't want to stand in line with the masses.
PS: Your other post about going the extra rail to control speed may also be frowned upon by the Kremlin.
 
I'm sorry but that just shouldn't be allowed. The correct way to control speed is with multiple shafts with different tips.
If everyone adopted your method then a lot of these companies would go out of business. You're not a Communist are you?
I'm in favor of free shafts and tips myself but have leg problems and don't want to stand in line with the masses.
PS: Your other post about going the extra rail to control speed may also be frowned upon by the Kremlin.
We will not tolerate outragous conspiracy theories!
 
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