"Best" way to check for taper roll?

snookered_again said:
I checked mine last night and the shaft is a little off. also checked the girlfriend's cue. I know it was straight when she bought it about 6 months back, but not now, and she's been storing it right.
mine is a little off from about 4" from the tip to about a foot from the tip I'd say about .020, but the tip section is relatively straight to the rest of the cue. Hers wanders off about the same amount but the tip is off the axis of the cue by about .020 or so. I didn't measure it.. I thought hers was worse. How much this affects our game? difficult to tell.

I keep thinking of taking a straight 3" tube and cutting away about an inch along the length so it has an opening , then threading various holes so I can tighten up plastic screws against the shaft in strategic locations and leave them sit with a bit of pressure to help correcting things. I imagine they can be pushed back to closer to straight but if they can stay like that, not sure. I don't know if we both need new shafts or cues, they both have nice precision couplings but they are different from one another.
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Dude, if these are relatively new cues like you say, you can buy a cue shaft hanger (Straightener) on Amazon that'll keep the shafts straight and straighten mild taper roll that you describe in a short amount of time.
I'm sure somebody on here knows the actual name of these. It eludes me at present.
I use them to hang several of my cues in the display cabinet, rather than just standing them up put together. I think I paid 15 bucks for 6 of these.
They're 6 - 8 inches long, have a slice running down the length w a loop on top for hanging them from a nail or screw or whatever.
Approx 1/2" thick, Picture a round rubber piece 6" long w a cut down the side that you slip down over your cue tip and hang the rubber deally vertically from the ceiling. No slip rubber holds the cue in place and heavy duty enuf to hand for long periods of time, if necessary.
I've got an old Mali Shaft in one that you could shoot around corners with. It's coming along nicely, but it's been hanging since Xmas!! Lol.
I've heard if the shaft is too old, it'll go back to crooked once this thing is removed. Hope not. Lol.
 
Mensabum said:
Dude, if these are relatively new cues like you say, you can buy a cue shaft hanger (Straightener) on Amazon that'll keep the shafts straight and straighten mild taper roll that you describe in a short amount of time.
I'm sure somebody on here knows the actual name of these. It eludes me at present.
I use them to hang several of my cues in the display cabinet, rather than just standing them up put together. I think I paid 15 bucks for 6 of these.
They're 6 - 8 inches long, have a slice running down the length w a loop on top for hanging them from a nail or screw or whatever.
Approx 1/2" thick, Picture a round rubber piece 6" long w a cut down the side that you slip down over your cue tip and hang the rubber deally vertically from the ceiling. No slip rubber holds the cue in place and heavy duty enuf to hand for long periods of time, if necessary.
I've got an old Mali Shaft in one that you could shoot around corners with. It's coming along nicely, but it's been hanging since Xmas!! Lol.
I've heard if the shaft is too old, it'll go back to crooked once this thing is removed. Hope not. Lol.
Click to expand...

Link for reference.

 
interesting idea, thank you.
Maybe I can fashion one with a hunk of rubber hose. make it hang plumb with a little wire from the top center. I dont know how well it will work but shouldn't harm anything, so worth a try.
 
bbb said:
dude
they cost $16
surely your time and effort is worth at least that
just sayin
Click to expand...

LOL, as much as I understand that the first thing I do when I need something is look through the garage and see if I can make it ;) It's not about the money sometimes, it's about the satisfaction of solving your problems with what you have.
 
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Chili Palmer said:
LOL, as much as I understand that the first thing I do when I need something is look through the garage and see if I can make it ;) It's not about the money sometimes, it's about the satisfaction of solving your problems with what you have.
Click to expand...
since i am not a Mr. fix it
i rather spend my time doing something else
amazon prime is my friend.....;)
 
Mensabum said:
Dude, if these are relatively new cues like you say, you can buy a cue shaft hanger (Straightener) on Amazon that'll keep the shafts straight and straighten mild taper roll that you describe in a short amount of time.
I'm sure somebody on here knows the actual name of these. It eludes me at present.
I use them to hang several of my cues in the display cabinet, rather than just standing them up put together. I think I paid 15 bucks for 6 of these.
They're 6 - 8 inches long, have a slice running down the length w a loop on top for hanging them from a nail or screw or whatever.
Approx 1/2" thick, Picture a round rubber piece 6" long w a cut down the side that you slip down over your cue tip and hang the rubber deally vertically from the ceiling. No slip rubber holds the cue in place and heavy duty enuf to hand for long periods of time, if necessary.
I've got an old Mali Shaft in one that you could shoot around corners with. It's coming along nicely, but it's been hanging since Xmas!! Lol.
I've heard if the shaft is too old, it'll go back to crooked once this thing is removed. Hope not. Lol.
Click to expand...
Do you really think the weight of a shaft will keep it straight? I’ve seen expanding wood move walls! If the woods gonna move 4 ounces isn’t stopping it.
 
Rodney said:
Do you really think the weight of a shaft will keep it straight? I’ve seen expanding wood move walls! If the woods gonna move 4 ounces isn’t stopping it.
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The amazon listing says to soak it with water and hang some weight off of it. :ROFLMAO:
 
snookered_again said:
interesting idea, thank you.
Maybe I can fashion one with a hunk of rubber hose. make it hang plumb with a little wire from the top center. I dont know how well it will work but shouldn't harm anything, so worth a try.
Click to expand...
Might work. Might not.
As cheap as these things are, idk why you wouldn't just have Amazon bring you a six pack and be done w it.
They come in such pretty colors!!🤣🤣
 
Chili Palmer said:
LOL, as much as I understand that the first thing I do when I need something is look through the garage and see if I can make it ;) It's not about the money sometimes, it's about the satisfaction of solving your problems with what you have.
Click to expand...
Me too. I used a rubber tip like you see on the end of a cane. They come in different sizes and one just happens to fit perfectly over a 13mm tip.
I then used a small spring clamp attached to the end of the rubber tip and suspended it with a long loop of string and hung the cue.
As far as the taper roll question, I've run out with less than perfect cues, and missed easy outs with the straightest cues I own. My cues are inexpensive, so I really don't quibble about perfection, but I could understand someone paying $$$ for a custom cue and having an issue.
 
I made a short video using some rollers I recently got from a friend in Taiwan. The first cue honestly looks straight rolling it on a pool table so one can only imagine what cues that look like hell on the table would look like on these rollers. I believe that to have a wooden shaft appear dead straight on this type of test is tough and takes some luck. It's wood after all.

rumble.com

Testing Cue Straightness

A short video showing a true test for pool cue straightness that includes the entire cue.
rumble.com rumble.com
 
Coos Cues said:
I made a short video using some rollers I recently got from a friend in Taiwan. The first cue honestly looks straight rolling it on a pool table so one can only imagine what cues that look like hell on the table would look like on these rollers. I believe that to have a wooden shaft appear dead straight on this type of test is tough and takes some luck. It's wood after all.

rumble.com

Testing Cue Straightness

A short video showing a true test for pool cue straightness that includes the entire cue.
rumble.com rumble.com
Click to expand...


Roll the second cue on a flat surface and post that video, would be interesting to see the difference. My guess is this is what could be construed as taper roll? Just guessing.
 
Coos Cues said:
I made a short video using some rollers I recently got from a friend in Taiwan. The first cue honestly looks straight rolling it on a pool table so one can only imagine what cues that look like hell on the table would look like on these rollers. I believe that to have a wooden shaft appear dead straight on this type of test is tough and takes some luck. It's wood after all.

rumble.com

Testing Cue Straightness

A short video showing a true test for pool cue straightness that includes the entire cue.
rumble.com rumble.com
Click to expand...
Rolling on the table is more forgiving except for wrapped cues .The wrap can have a high side and make the butt wobble.
Rolling on the bed hides some of the runout at tip ( specially if it has "pro taper" ) end because that end usually hugs the felt.
Using the roller as you did really amplifies any run-out.
This taper roll discussion has caused some flame wars but, I'll throw in my 5 cents.
Curved taper/parabolic taper butts like on those SW will show exaggerated wobble their joint end. Even if they really have very little runout.
Straight one angle butts will hug that felt much better. And since you don't see any gap at the joint end, any imperctions, unless it a good amount, will not show.
Compound angles with fat middles can also exaggerate " taper roll ". Definitely should not be rolled on the felt if it has leather wrap. Better on the rail.
My 5 cents. You don't like it, ignore it.
 
the rollers might help spin the cue and some might like that. a V block doesn't; necessarily need a roller and even if you go for example, cut some wood blocks that are not very precise, It will still show the same thing basically. You just cant; spin it and let go and watch it sit there turning on it's own. - some may like that.
also if you like you can use a dial indicator to measure the runout and actually quantify it. I think buying cues online knowing no cue is truly exactly straight can lead to differences in opinion on what "straight" actually is. I'm sure that "grey area" has led to some disappointments.

The video does demonstrate quite well, how a set of V blocks placed in such a way amplifies the runout.
 
snookered_again said:
the rollers might help spin the cue and some might like that. a V block doesn't; necessarily need a roller and even if you go for example, cut some wood blocks that are not very precise, It will still show the same thing basically. You just cant; spin it and let go and watch it sit there turning on it's own. - some may like that.
also if you like you can use a dial indicator to measure the runout and actually quantify it. I think buying cues online knowing no cue is truly exactly straight can lead to differences in opinion on what "straight" actually is. I'm sure that "grey area" has led to some disappointments.

The video does demonstrate quite well, how a set of V blocks placed in such a way amplifies the runout.
Click to expand...
It doesn't amplify it. What you see is what there is exactly.

It's other techniques that hide it.
 
I don't think there is any misunderstanding or discrepancy here.

if you were to measure the runout, say put a dial indicator on it, the further you moved from the V block to take that measurement, the more run-out you'd see, I used the term amplification to describe that.. I dont think there is confusion over the mechanics of it.

if your cue was held between centers at the ends, or if you plced the V blocks at the ends of it's length then you'd measure a lot less runout than you do by the method you demonstrated. Its kind of making the cue appear worse than it is but that's ok as you are looking at the runout.. and the bend and the way its bent.

of course there is more to bend than only runout as there is also the location of the bend and whether it's a kink or a slow gradual bend..

I think the only discrepancy was just some difference in how we interpret what "amplification" means
 
snookered_again said:
I don't think there is any misunderstanding or discrepancy here.

if you were to measure the runout, say put a dial indicator on it, the further you moved from the V block to take that measurement, the more run-out you'd see, I used the term amplification to describe that.. I dont think there is confusion over the mechanics of it.

if your cue was held between centers at the ends, or if you plced the V blocks at the ends of it's length then you'd measure a lot less runout than you do by the method you demonstrated. Its kind of making the cue appear worse than it is but that's ok as you are looking at the runout.. and the bend and the way its bent.

of course there is more to bend than only runout as there is also the location of the bend and whether it's a kink or a slow gradual bend..

I think the only discrepancy was just some difference in how we interpret what "amplification" means
Click to expand...
In case this matters both of the cues in my video are plenty straight to play with. I shoot with both of them and never notice a thing.
 
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