Best way to clean up a well used shaft.....

Try a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. There is some debate as to using dry, or with water. I have had excellent results with using a damp (barely) Mr Clean Eraser, and running it with the grain of the shaft. You will be amazed at how much crap come off of your shaft. I use a few drops of water just to keep the dust down. Not that it creates a lot of dust, but just enough to be annoying.

I finish my cue with microsanding papers, and buff with white rubbing compound on a piece of leather for a mirror like shine.

The sponges last a long time too, just rinse it when you are done, and dry it out.

Brian
 
Rangercap said:
Try a Mr Clean Magic Eraser. There is some debate as to using dry, or with water. I have had excellent results with using a damp (barely) Mr Clean Eraser, and running it with the grain of the shaft. You will be amazed at how much crap come off of your shaft. I use a few drops of water just to keep the dust down. Not that it creates a lot of dust, but just enough to be annoying.

I finish my cue with microsanding papers, and buff with white rubbing compound on a piece of leather for a mirror like shine.

The sponges last a long time too, just rinse it when you are done, and dry it out.

Brian

This is what I do.

Also try some Slipstic conditoner.
 
The Magic Eraser is the best thing I've ever found to remove dirt/chalk from down in the pores of the wood. When I use it, I use it along with denatured alcohol instead of water. This helps to minimize the raising of the grain of the wood. After that, some light sanding (1000 grit and above), a quick burnishing, then SlipStic.

I don't try to wash and reuse the sponges though. I figure once that stuff gets in the sponge, they're cheap enough that I just throw it away and start with a fresh one. I cut the sponges up into 1" square strips and use all sides of the sponge when cleaning.
 
ragbug74 said:
The Magic Eraser is the best thing I've ever found to remove dirt/chalk from down in the pores of the wood. When I use it, I use it along with denatured alcohol instead of water. This helps to minimize the raising of the grain of the wood. After that, some light sanding (1000 grit and above), a quick burnishing, then SlipStic.

I don't try to wash and reuse the sponges though. I figure once that stuff gets in the sponge, they're cheap enough that I just throw it away and start with a fresh one. I cut the sponges up into 1" square strips and use all sides of the sponge when cleaning.

For light sanding, try using Scotchbrite. The green stuff your mom uses in the kitchen. It's very fine and works better than 600 or 800 ebony cloth. Your shaft will be smooth as glass. Better than any of the shaft cleaners I have tried like slipstik etc. And it costs pennies.

When I'm playing, I like to hit the shaft with Scotchbrite a few strokes about once an hour. It takes off any dirt and moisture that comes off your hands. Yes, it will act like very, very fine sandpaper, but it may take years to lose .1 mm from your shaft.
 
Yeah!

Take it to a cuemaker, and let him clean it up for $10. It is faster, cleaner, and you won't be buying products worth that much or more.
 
jay helfert said:
For light sanding, try using Scotchbrite. The green stuff your mom uses in the kitchen. It's very fine and works better than 600 or 800 ebony cloth. Your shaft will be smooth as glass. Better than any of the shaft cleaners I have tried like slipstik etc. And it costs pennies.

When I'm playing, I like to hit the shaft with Scotchbrite a few strokes about once an hour. It takes off any dirt and moisture that comes off your hands. Yes, it will act like very, very fine sandpaper, but it may take years to lose .1 mm from your shaft.

It's actually pretty rough depending on how old the brite is. I consider this my "big gun" in terms of abrasives. Next are the abrasive microfilms, then lastly the 1500 and 2000 grit sandpapers; then burnish.

I don't care if they're blue. Adds character :)
 
jay helfert said:
For light sanding, try using Scotchbrite. The green stuff your mom uses in the kitchen. It's very fine and works better than 600 or 800 ebony cloth. Your shaft will be smooth as glass. Better than any of the shaft cleaners I have tried like slipstik etc. And it costs pennies.

When I'm playing, I like to hit the shaft with Scotchbrite a few strokes about once an hour. It takes off any dirt and moisture that comes off your hands. Yes, it will act like very, very fine sandpaper, but it may take years to lose .1 mm from your shaft.

I use the Magic Eraser too. But I disagree with using the green Scotbrite pads. They are abrasive. The white ones are less abrasive but still remove wood. Use leather after the cleaning to burnish. I place a piece of waxed paper (from my wifes kitchen) between the shaft and the leather. Make a few strokes with the waxed paper and then remove the waxed paper and just use the leather.

Paul Mon
 
I use a very lightly damped paper towel and then wipe with a dry paper towel. I then use a $ 100.00 bill and briskly rub the shaft and sides of the tip. Once a year I take my shafts to a cuemaker and have them cleaned.

I never use any abrasive pads,alcohol or waxes or anything else on my shafts, they are smooth and friction free.

It is totally unnecessary to use anything else on a properly built shaft.
 
HIRUN526 said:
I use a very lightly damped paper towel and then wipe with a dry paper towel. I then use a $ 100.00 bill and briskly rub the shaft and sides of the tip. Once a year I take my shafts to a cuemaker and have them cleaned.

I never use any abrasive pads,alcohol or waxes or anything else on my shafts, they are smooth and friction free.

It is totally unnecessary to use anything else on a properly built shaft.

What do you think the cuemaker is doing to clean the shaft?
 
Snapshot9 said:
Take it to a cuemaker, and let him clean it up for $10. It is faster, cleaner, and you won't be buying products worth that much or more.

This is not for everyone. If I wanted to have a cuemaker clean my cue it would cost me $20 shipping x 2 plus the $10 fee and I'd be without my cue for a week :mad: ..... I'll stick with Magic Erasers thanks.

Dave
 
Paul Mon said:
What do you think the cuemaker is doing to clean the shaft?

He does what I do only better, he puts the shafts on a lathe for cleaning plus polishes the ferrules and burnishes the tip sides. I have the cuemaker do annual maintenance on all my shafts.
 
I know a few cuemakers using the Magic Erasers. Some have claimed that it was a "secret" among cuemakers for some time...

This is almost embarrassing, but I have never had to clean my shafts. My OCD has kept my shafts looking brand new, not a smudge of chalk dust anywhere. But cleaning other people's cues, I use Magic Erasers w/water, squeezed dry between paper towels.

Then I use 3000 grit sandpaper to smooth any raised grains, followed by a vigorous burnishing with leather.

-Roger
 
HIRUN526 said:
He does what I do only better, he puts the shafts on a lathe for cleaning plus polishes the ferrules and burnishes the tip sides. I have the cuemaker do annual maintenance on all my shafts.


Are you watching this cue maker clean the shaft? My guess is that they are using some type of abrasive. I know that on the one occasion that I had my shafts done by a cue maker I had to tell him (Dan Dishaw) NOT to us any abrasive on the shaft. He looked a little surprised and replied, “how do you think I’m going to clean it?”. He cleaned the shaft best he could with some type of solvent and then sealed it with some mixture that he would not reveal to me.

Since then I've been cleaning all my shafts. Until Magic Eraser became popular I used Denature Alcohol and a paper towel.

Paul Mon
 
Paul Mon said:
Are you watching this cue maker clean the shaft? My guess is that they are using some type of abrasive. I know that on the one occasion that I had my shafts done by a cue maker I had to tell him (Dan Dishaw) NOT to us any abrasive on the shaft. He looked a little surprised and replied, “how do you think I’m going to clean it?”. He cleaned the shaft best he could with some type of solvent and then sealed it with some mixture that he would not reveal to me.

Since then I've been cleaning all my shafts. Until Magic Eraser became popular I used Denature Alcohol and a paper towel.

Paul Mon

I hear ya. I had a guy do my shafts... I won't even call him a cue maker...maybe wood butcher... now I do my own. I asked once to get a shaft cleaned, and not reduce the diameter. He looked at like I was crazy. I get it back, the ferrule looked like a q-tip. I held a 6" steel rule to the ferrule, and could obviously see a 1/32" gap where he held his finger too long and sanded the shaft, then tried to blend it.

Brian
 
:D
I'll play devil's advocate here:

Don't worry about it and don't bother - its anal. My shaft is a nice fine brown salt and pepper spalt that's taken years to develop (like a fine beer gut) and is smooth as glass. If you could see all the fine micro-garbage on the table that your laying your hands on every shot, you'd wanna puke, anyway - so, yuck-it. Just remember - all employees must wash their hands...
Cut
 
cuttyshark said:
:D
I'll play devil's advocate here:

Don't worry about it and don't bother - its anal. My shaft is a nice fine brown salt and pepper spalt that's taken years to develop (like a fine beer gut) and is smooth as glass. If you could see all the fine micro-garbage on the table that your laying your hands on every shot, you'd wanna puke, anyway - so, yuck-it. Just remember - all employees must wash their hands...
Cut

Cutty

:D That is your 'in' to limitless wealth! Market your 'recipe' for shaft smoothness as a "Natural 'Cue' Cure." What took years to develope, can be yours now for the low price of $49.99 plus s&h.
 
HIRUN526 said:
I use a very lightly damped paper towel and then wipe with a dry paper towel. I then use a $ 100.00 bill and briskly rub the shaft and sides of the tip. Once a year I take my shafts to a cuemaker and have them cleaned.

I never use any abrasive pads,alcohol or waxes or anything else on my shafts, they are smooth and friction free.

It is totally unnecessary to use anything else on a properly built shaft.


What if the biggest bill you have is a $20?
 
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