Best way to use the Willard’s nickel

RailKing85

RailKing85

Active member
Ok so I’ve watched 3 different methods so far to shape the tip using the Willard’s nickel.

I bought I true wood Cynergy with a dime sniper tip and I’m finding I’m not liking the shape much. Also it doesn’t seem to be holding chalk in the middle after a couple weeks of play. See pic first on left* I then got a tapper and rolled it in a circular motion and it then “seemed to be looking good with the chalk see pics 2 and 3*

But then I was back at square one within a day or two. So I ordered and got a Willard’s nickel and am looking to reshape it to a nickel and also be roughing it up at the same time. Hoping it doesn’t take too much meat off.

So in short, what the best way to do this smoothly and straight, minus a pocket or real lathe.

*side note, I’m also finding it more difficult to make rail shots with this shaft. Anyone experience this?

Thanks in advance fellas.
 

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RailKing85

RailKing85

Active member
GentlemanJames said:
I am a big fan of the Willard's shaper.

With one hand, I simply roll the shaft back-and-forth atop my thighs while seated; and, hold the shaper cupped in my other hand. Do a little at a time, adjusting the angle of the shaper and check your curvature often. - GJ
Click to expand...
Was thinking this may be best because of the taper of the shaft. Saw this on YouTube from the like 10 years ago. Thanks for the input.
 
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S

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Porper Shaper Tacker

PORPER_TACKER_THUMB__08290.jpg

There's a cupped side that will do crude shaping. I use this flat side to dimple the tip. Roll the tip and spiral inward. I usually count 30 or so .25" increments to roughen a 13mm tip. This removes no leather and as long as you don't perforate the edges, is very tip life friendly. I use other cupped abrasives to actually shape a tip.
 
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Pool Hand Luke

Pool Hand Luke

Well-known member
I start with the Last Forever on the dime side, rotating the shaft between each stroke, then switch over to the Williard dime to finish while holding the shaft at an angle to reach the very center of the tip. Before buying the Last Forever combo tool I used the same procedure GJ described with the Williard dime.
 
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B

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Pool Hand Luke said:
I start with the Last Forever on the dime side, rotating the shaft between each stroke, then switch over to the Williard dime to finish while holding the shaft at an angle to reach the very center of the tip. Before buying the Last Forever combo tool I used the same procedure GJ described with the Williard dime.
Click to expand...
why would you go to the willard after the last4ever??????????
 
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G

garczar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i use a combo of a cue-cube and a dime willards. don't think it matters how you use the willards as long as it's pressed firmly against the tip. on newer/flatter tips i'll use a Tweeten shaper to get the initial shape right. for just light scuffing i use a knockoff kamui-style scuffer i got on fleabay for 10bux.
 
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Pool Hand Luke

Pool Hand Luke

Well-known member
Okay, I bought the Last Forever tool thinking it would be a one step solution but for whatever reason the very center of the tip would still not come into contact with the tool. I even tried using the nickle side thinking that would work. Eventually it did but I was taking too much material off the tip to suit me and changing tips (Elkmasters) too often.
I switched tips and now use LePro and Milk duds and as an experiment tried the method I described in my first post. I'm able to finish the job much faster with less material removed and the tips now rarely need scuffing or shaping. I'm sure you're right, that the LF tool would do the job, but I just found a quicker way that works for me. Getting rid of those soft Elkmasters might be another reason I'm having better luck now. Next time I need to shape my tip I will use the LF only and see what happens.
 
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B

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Pool Hand Luke said:
Okay, I bought the Last Forever tool thinking it would be a one step solution but for whatever reason the very center of the tip would still not come into contact with the tool. I even tried using the nickle side thinking that would work. Eventually it did but I was taking too much material off the tip to suit me and changing tips (Elkmasters) too often.
I switched tips and now use LePro and Milk duds and as an experiment tried the method I described in my first post. I'm able to finish the job much faster with less material removed and the tips now rarely need scuffing or shaping. I'm sure you're right, that the LF tool would do the job, but I just found a quicker way that works for me. Getting rid of those soft Elkmasters might be another reason I'm having better luck now. Next time I need to shape my tip I will use the LF only and see what happens.
Click to expand...
thanks for the reply......(y)
i find if i angle the last4ever to the tip
instead of perpendicular i can get to the center better
my own 2 cents is you only hit the very center of the tip on a perfect center hit on the cue ball which for me is rare
as long as i get the radius i want i am happy
thats just me
 
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