What would cause OB's to shrink Jay?? Too many times in the washer, or what??Actually the cue ball is the one that becomes smaller over time.
What would cause OB's to shrink Jay?? Too many times in the washer, or what??Actually the cue ball is the one that becomes smaller over time.
Many of the rooms I play in polish the balls regularly with what I am assuming is Aramith ball cleaner and a machine, it feels exactly like a fresh unwrapped set of new balls feel like.Well, unless you are running a professional pool tournament, use whatever you like.
I use Aramith because I want my pool balls to remain in good condition and so the
appearance is important. Of course, after coming out of my BallStar, the pool balls
have very little throw. But the shine is restored and seems to last a pretty long time.
My earlier post included an attachment that specifies what can be be used clean the
pool balls. However, I don’t think most local pool rooms give a hoot and are just trying
to preserve and maintain their pool balls. I imagine Aramith and other cleaning products
used to restore luster and shine will be widely used. For home use, who really cares? It
is solely for your enjoyment so you can hand polish every single ball by hand if you prefer.
I want the pool balls I own to look as handsome as possible. I cannot control the quality
and cleanliness of the pool balls in a local tournament. Just like every other entrant, I’d
be using the same equipment, i.e., pool balls, based on the luck of table assignments.
So I might as well play with pool balls that please me the most and that’s Centennials.
If I wanted to get ready for a upcoming tournament, I’d practice a lot and just refrain from
cleaning my pool balls with Aramith until after the event. There is a difference with cling,
especially with long cut shots, with newly polished pool balls. So if that was ever of any
concern, just practice using the tray of pool balls you get handed at the local pool room.
Actually the cue ball is the one that becomes smaller over time.
A more precise way of demonstrating the size difference for a worn-down cue ball is to surround the cue ball with six object balls, in a ring. If you get five touching the cue ball (and each other), the sixth will leave a gap with the cue ball. If the cue ball is large, like maybe a new ball, the sixth object ball won't be able to complete the solid ring and will leave a gap.It’s true that the CB is the one that wears down faster, but the other balls do also wear down.
So if you have an old ball set and the room replaces the CB, the CB could be a bit bigger.
By the way, for anyone who doubts that the CB wears down, stand a wooden rack on top of two OB (one on each corner) and then try to slide the CB under the rack. It usually slides under easily. If you try to slide an OB under the rack, it usually gets stuck.
A more precise way of demonstrating the size difference for a worn-down cue ball is to surround the cue ball with six object balls, in a ring. If you get five touching the cue ball (and each other), the sixth will leave a gap with the cue ball. If the cue ball is large, like maybe a new ball, the sixth object ball won't be able to complete the solid ring and will leave a gap.
In both cases, the size of the gap is three times the mismatch of the diameter of the cue ball to the object balls.
This technique can also detect a large/small object ball relative to the others. Is the one ball small compared to the stripes?
Bob……do you know the reason why pool balls are allowable to vary in weight up to 1/2 oz.?
If the cue ball actually does get lighter in weight over time from friction and becomes smaller
but the same isn’t true of object balls manifesting the same size reduction, I’d otherwise think
that the tolerances for object balls would be and really should be much tighter & closer in weight.
The maximum weight for a pool ball is 6 ozs. Since object balls and pool balls should be the same
weight, typically 167-169 grams, object balls shouldn’t be allowed to be vary in weight by 1/2 oz.
Is it because of the cost of replacing pool balls if the weight tolerances were tighter? The logical
reason is the higher cost of replacing pool balls that no longer meet the specs. Wouldn’t it be more
practical to use a weight variance of only 7 grams max. weight difference? Heck, if object ball weights
don’t suffer the same fate as cue balls, I’d make the max weight variance a max of 3.5 - 4 grams.
Replacing cue balls isn’t that expensive and it is not like a cue ball gets smaller in 6 months to a year
of play. In fact, how long ( hrs. of play) does it take for a cue ball to become smaller. How come this
isn’t an issue in 3 cushion where 2 cue balls are rolling all the time and traveling greater distances
on a pool cloth?
I am still startled that a cue ball will become smaller but I’m presuming that it takes a long time to happen.
Since it is a fact, I think the BCA should revisit the overly generous allowable difference in weight in pool
balls up to a 1/2 ounce. I do not understand the underlying reasons why this is allowable and hasn’t been
changed. Under the right conditions, it can affect a match’s outcome.
The spec needs revision.Bob……do you know the reason why pool balls are allowable to vary in weight up to 1/2 oz.?
...
If you look at old red circle cue balls, some of them have become pink circle, or even pink crescent. I just ran into one of these in a pool hall that may have bought the balls in the 1980s.... I am still startled that a cue ball will become smaller but I’m presuming that it takes a long time to happen....
I think your assessment is spot on. Weight is important in how pool balls are made and pool cues are built.The spec needs revision.
I think the range is to cover all the manufacturers who cared. Maybe it is from the days when some balls were clay.
A more important spec is the matching of the weights within a set. That needs to be added. I think the maximum variation in a set from lightest to heaviest ball should be 2 grams or less, out of about 170. That is about what Aramith is currently doing. Here is are the weights in the set I'm currently using:
I measured a set of Aramith Tournament balls (broken ring design) that I've been using for a few years. I used a scale that measures to a tenth of a gram. I measured twice to check repeatability and a few read 0.1 gram different on the two, so I averaged them.
The "error" is the difference from the average of all 16 balls. The errors more than half a gram are shaded.
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I would have pasted the table from Excel, but it doesn't seem to work any more.
Dr. Dave did a video where he cleaned the balls with different cleaners, then he showed how the throw changed depending on what cleaner he used:Not sure I understand all this, but I use hand sanitizer to clean the balls. Only few drops for each ball.
Seems to work fine. Am I missing something?
I bet it wears em down over time.Many of the rooms I play in polish the balls regularly with what I am assuming is Aramith ball cleaner and a machine, it feels exactly like a fresh unwrapped set of new balls feel like.
That's how we first noticed the differences in the balls at the local hall.It’s true that the CB is the one that wears down faster, but the other balls do also wear down.
So if you have an old ball set and the room replaces the CB, the CB could be a bit bigger.
By the way, for anyone who doubts that the CB wears down, stand a wooden rack on top of two OB (one on each corner) and then try to slide the CB under the rack. It usually slides under easily. If you try to slide an OB under the rack, it usually gets stuck.
Always. In the places I play, unfortunately.A more precise way of demonstrating the size difference for a worn-down cue ball is to surround the cue ball with six object balls, in a ring. If you get five touching the cue ball (and each other), the sixth will leave a gap with the cue ball. If the cue ball is large, like maybe a new ball, the sixth object ball won't be able to complete the solid ring and will leave a gap.
In both cases, the size of the gap is three times the mismatch of the diameter of the cue ball to the object balls.
This technique can also detect a large/small object ball relative to the others. Is the one ball small compared to the stripes?
Those 2 and 3 ball results stand out.The spec needs revision.
I think the range is to cover all the manufacturers who cared. Maybe it is from the days when some balls were clay.
A more important spec is the matching of the weights within a set. That needs to be added. I think the maximum variation in a set from lightest to heaviest ball should be 2 grams or less, out of about 170. That is about what Aramith is currently doing. Here is are the weights in the set I'm currently using:
I measured a set of Aramith Tournament balls (broken ring design) that I've been using for a few years. I used a scale that measures to a tenth of a gram. I measured twice to check repeatability and a few read 0.1 gram different on the two, so I averaged them.
The "error" is the difference from the average of all 16 balls. The errors more than half a gram are shaded.
![]()
I would have pasted the table from Excel, but it doesn't seem to work any more.
The owner was telling me he has to watch for players swapping out crappy balls for good ones. Says he's found some real doozies in there now and then.Leave it to Bob to come in the science and require me to do arithmetic!
I have always assumed that the one ball is smaller in older ball sets because it’s the head ball on the break in rotation games. For this reason I always rack it in the back row when playing 8b so I can get the top rows frozen.