Biggest "leak"- 9Ball the Break.
- Thread starter Beware_of_Dawg
- Start date
here are three basic breaks from buddy hall's chalk off series with instruction:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukq4NNpBTsQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjLgW7L0wsc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2bUwLd0njc
Its no "racking secrets" but it might be helpful.
good luck!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ukq4NNpBTsQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjLgW7L0wsc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2bUwLd0njc
Its no "racking secrets" but it might be helpful.
good luck!
did you answer the guy that asked "are you jacking up"? you playing on 9 footers or bar box?
Here's my thoughts:
If the CB flies off the table, two things are happening. 1) You're not hitting the 1 ball full in the face and 2) you're jacked up at point of contact with the CB.
If you're scratching in either side, you're drawing the ball with some outside english.
The ups and downs of a power break...it's good for getting the balls moving, but it's not good for accuracy. The more power, the less accuracy...
This is what I aim for when I break, no matter where I break from. I aim through dead center of the CB to the bottom of the 1 ball (where it meets the table bed) because that's on the vertical plane through the center of the ball. I'm almost guaranteed to hit it full in the face. Although I will occassionally use the "side break" with low outside english if I'm in stroke, but I'm still aiming for the same spot on the head ball.
Joe Tucker's dvds are GREAT for learning to read the rack and knowing how to break certain ways, it will definitely help!
If the CB flies off the table, two things are happening. 1) You're not hitting the 1 ball full in the face and 2) you're jacked up at point of contact with the CB.
If you're scratching in either side, you're drawing the ball with some outside english.
The ups and downs of a power break...it's good for getting the balls moving, but it's not good for accuracy. The more power, the less accuracy...
This is what I aim for when I break, no matter where I break from. I aim through dead center of the CB to the bottom of the 1 ball (where it meets the table bed) because that's on the vertical plane through the center of the ball. I'm almost guaranteed to hit it full in the face. Although I will occassionally use the "side break" with low outside english if I'm in stroke, but I'm still aiming for the same spot on the head ball.
Joe Tucker's dvds are GREAT for learning to read the rack and knowing how to break certain ways, it will definitely help!
i used to have the same problem as you, i have 2 breaks which i use depending on the table and how i'm playing..i can play a med-soft break where i break from the left, hand on the rail, playing just below center getting the wing ball every time and the one just misses the middle pocket hit the rail comes off the bottom rail and close to the corner pocket from where you broke from, the white it in center you should have a clear shot.
The second break i have is a power break, breaking from the same side hand on rail again, i hit them hard with again just below center following through, i start with my chin on the cue, i aim below where i am going to hit and drop my arm at the last second to hit just below middle, at the end of the break i am in a upright position, i have my right leg completely straight on both breaks left slightly bent(right handed).
On of the most important thing i found when i improved my break was i started looking at the one ball when hitting the cueball, i use to go from CB to one ball and back again a few times whilst taking some practise strokes then CB last but now i look at the one ball whilst hitting the CB and try to keep focusing on the one ball until you have broke...i play on the UK pro tour and Euro tour but on both tours we have tapped tables and this guarantees a perfect rack every time, every ball touching and dead center not on an angle so if you hit the one ball you can almost always get the wing ball.
hope this helps, good luck
The second break i have is a power break, breaking from the same side hand on rail again, i hit them hard with again just below center following through, i start with my chin on the cue, i aim below where i am going to hit and drop my arm at the last second to hit just below middle, at the end of the break i am in a upright position, i have my right leg completely straight on both breaks left slightly bent(right handed).
On of the most important thing i found when i improved my break was i started looking at the one ball when hitting the cueball, i use to go from CB to one ball and back again a few times whilst taking some practise strokes then CB last but now i look at the one ball whilst hitting the CB and try to keep focusing on the one ball until you have broke...i play on the UK pro tour and Euro tour but on both tours we have tapped tables and this guarantees a perfect rack every time, every ball touching and dead center not on an angle so if you hit the one ball you can almost always get the wing ball.
hope this helps, good luck
poolplayer2093 said:
Was jacking up a bit, and yeah 9 footers exclusively.
D_Lewis said:
I agree someone with my skill level should not have so many holes in my break game. I told you it was my biggest leak but it's not as bad as it sounds I quit smacking whitey off the dance floor some time ago. WHen I gave up trying to break like a gorilla... Still I am not happy with the results of my break as far as consistancy and potting balls.
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Beware_of_Dawg said:
I have a good amount of success with this. I also only break at say 70-80%, maybe even less at times. I hit a lower center ball, generally make the right wing ball, send the one toward the side or off the rail to the upper right corner. The 9 will usually migrate toward the lower left pocket, but not always. I usually end up with the CB in the center area of the table or slightly up table.
I practiced this quite a bit before I found what worked for me and consistently at what speed. If I am coming up dry or need to adjust, I find I only need to move the CB along the head string a few inches from where I have it laid out and it all comes right back.
This works for me, may not work for you. Good luck.
Craig
One of the things I have my students do is this:
1) Never sacrifice accuracy for power
2) Perform the transfer of energy from stroke - to cue ball - to rack
3) Start out at 50% break power and gradually increase to see where you get your best results
Never sacrifice power for accuracy
Power is not all that important on the break. Accuracy is! Over a period of time, you will see that a ball is more likely to drop on the break by being more accurate (as opposed to being more powerful).
I believe that the less that's flying around the table, the better chances I have of a ball dropping into the pockets. The Big Bang Theory of nine ball has always puzzled me. I would rather know exactly where my cue ball is going, and exactly where the one ball is going. This way I know I will have a shot when something drops.
How many times have you made a ball on the break only to get stuck rolling out or to be left with no shot at all? How many times have you had your cue ball fly around the table hitting other balls after you contact the 1 ball? How many times have you scratched because of that?
It's okay to exercise a bit of power as long as you use only the amount of power you can control.
Accuracy is exactness. Repeat that statement over and over in your head just before you break the balls.
Transfer of energy
The tip should stroke the cue ball accurately so that the cue ball can can be directed and guided to make contact with the one ball accurately. Anything less than accurate will create problems for you. Above all else, remember that.
You need to transfer the energy of your stroke to the cue ball. The cue ball should transfer all of that energy into the rack. If the cue ball is still flying around the table, you did not transfer the energy properly, or you did not accurately contact the 1 ball properly.
When we try to HIT the rack as hard as we can, we tend to come off the cue ball, or to come off the 1 ball. This means you don't stroke the cue ball where you want - or if your cue is not level, you have a bouncing or flying cue ball ball going towards the rack. Nothing good ever happens when you do that.
STROKE the break shot, don't BLAST it or HIT it
I recommend that you stroke the shot just as you would with any other shot. Shoot it like a stop shot, and have the cue ball sliding until it contacts the one. Test this out at 50% speed - pay attention to your accuracy - and I guarantee you that you will be amazed at the results.This is NOT the soft break at all. This is a controlled shot - at 50% of your total breaking power.
After you see how well this works, you can increase your stroke power gradually, but pay attention to the results you are getting at various speeds. Most players I have worked with get the best results by using 50-65% of their power. Imagine that!
Using all of our strength is useless
When we muster all of the strength in our shooting arm to blast away at the rack, we tend to tense up. When we tense up, our shooting arm becomes tight and our stroke's fluidity gives way to rigidity. You end up blasting the rack and hoping for something to drop, and usually the only thing that drops is your ass in the chair after you hand your opponent the cue ball.
Only use the amount of power that you can control. You wouldn't want to water the plants in your house with a fire hose, would you? It's too much force and power that is necessary to complete the task at hand. It's overkill. It's the same thing with the break.
Like I said to you in the PM I sent you - if you have any other questions - give me a phone call.
1) Never sacrifice accuracy for power
2) Perform the transfer of energy from stroke - to cue ball - to rack
3) Start out at 50% break power and gradually increase to see where you get your best results
Never sacrifice power for accuracy
Power is not all that important on the break. Accuracy is! Over a period of time, you will see that a ball is more likely to drop on the break by being more accurate (as opposed to being more powerful).
I believe that the less that's flying around the table, the better chances I have of a ball dropping into the pockets. The Big Bang Theory of nine ball has always puzzled me. I would rather know exactly where my cue ball is going, and exactly where the one ball is going. This way I know I will have a shot when something drops.
How many times have you made a ball on the break only to get stuck rolling out or to be left with no shot at all? How many times have you had your cue ball fly around the table hitting other balls after you contact the 1 ball? How many times have you scratched because of that?
It's okay to exercise a bit of power as long as you use only the amount of power you can control.
Accuracy is exactness. Repeat that statement over and over in your head just before you break the balls.
Transfer of energy
The tip should stroke the cue ball accurately so that the cue ball can can be directed and guided to make contact with the one ball accurately. Anything less than accurate will create problems for you. Above all else, remember that.
You need to transfer the energy of your stroke to the cue ball. The cue ball should transfer all of that energy into the rack. If the cue ball is still flying around the table, you did not transfer the energy properly, or you did not accurately contact the 1 ball properly.
When we try to HIT the rack as hard as we can, we tend to come off the cue ball, or to come off the 1 ball. This means you don't stroke the cue ball where you want - or if your cue is not level, you have a bouncing or flying cue ball ball going towards the rack. Nothing good ever happens when you do that.
STROKE the break shot, don't BLAST it or HIT it
I recommend that you stroke the shot just as you would with any other shot. Shoot it like a stop shot, and have the cue ball sliding until it contacts the one. Test this out at 50% speed - pay attention to your accuracy - and I guarantee you that you will be amazed at the results.This is NOT the soft break at all. This is a controlled shot - at 50% of your total breaking power.
After you see how well this works, you can increase your stroke power gradually, but pay attention to the results you are getting at various speeds. Most players I have worked with get the best results by using 50-65% of their power. Imagine that!
Using all of our strength is useless
When we muster all of the strength in our shooting arm to blast away at the rack, we tend to tense up. When we tense up, our shooting arm becomes tight and our stroke's fluidity gives way to rigidity. You end up blasting the rack and hoping for something to drop, and usually the only thing that drops is your ass in the chair after you hand your opponent the cue ball.
Only use the amount of power that you can control. You wouldn't want to water the plants in your house with a fire hose, would you? It's too much force and power that is necessary to complete the task at hand. It's overkill. It's the same thing with the break.
Like I said to you in the PM I sent you - if you have any other questions - give me a phone call.
One thing I have learned in the nine ball break is not to try to blast the rack with everything you have.
Start slower, and progressively hit the rack harder as you become better at contolling whitey.
Personally I don't hit the pack any harder than I can control. Some days my control is better than others, so I can blast away. Other days, if my control is a bit "off", I'll opt to ease up on the power, and go with a more controlled break.
Better control means keeping the cue ball out of a pocket and on the table, and a better chance of having a good shot with a realistic chance of running the rack after.
Just my .02.
Start slower, and progressively hit the rack harder as you become better at contolling whitey.
Personally I don't hit the pack any harder than I can control. Some days my control is better than others, so I can blast away. Other days, if my control is a bit "off", I'll opt to ease up on the power, and go with a more controlled break.
Better control means keeping the cue ball out of a pocket and on the table, and a better chance of having a good shot with a realistic chance of running the rack after.
Just my .02.
D_Lewis said:
Those are the %'s I aspire to be able to achieve.
I should defineately dedicate entire sessions to just practicing breaking and have tried to put more time into it. I'm certainly paying close attention to that aspect of my game recently....
Something Blackjack said rings very true from my 3 hour session last night... I moved to the leftside rail of the table last night so I could get my bridge hand flat to the felt to ensure I wasn't jacked up on the CB and went a half tip down from center and really consentrated on transfering full energy to the 1... I was able to lay into the rack with some serious force without the cueball leaving the table at all... I tested to see how much power I could get into the break and still controlling the cue ball (keeping it on the table w/ no scratch) and when I pounded the rack I made 3 balls and got a really nice spread on the remaining table (a reasonably easy run-out)... yet I missed the first cut shot because it required a smooth stroke to the side using a ting of throw... My body was so rigid from the break I couldn't pull off a shot that I normally hit without any problems... (before even seeing his post about that this morning) I even made a comment to playing partner that it was very very difficult to break that hard and get back into my normal stroke which is soft and generally smooth... after that power break, it was anything but smooth. I decided at that point, the power break is not for me.
I have been working on my break as well, everywhere I read it is a huge part of staying in control of the table. If you look on YouTube, in the BClub videos, there are 3 teaching segments from Buddy Hall on different breaks. He expains how the 3 breaks work pretty well. It's brief but good info.
The one I use is a few inches off the rail, straight into the 1, a bit off center, using half tip of low, no side spin. Usually, if the 1 does not go in the side, it will come uptable, and the bit of draw will bring the cue in the same area for a shot. I think the key is not to aim at the exact top of the 1, as from the side angle you are cutting it if you hit the top, which would cause the cue to race around the table, and maybe jump. You want to aim a bit toward the side you are breaking from, so from the right, aim a tip to the right on the 1 ball.
The one I use is a few inches off the rail, straight into the 1, a bit off center, using half tip of low, no side spin. Usually, if the 1 does not go in the side, it will come uptable, and the bit of draw will bring the cue in the same area for a shot. I think the key is not to aim at the exact top of the 1, as from the side angle you are cutting it if you hit the top, which would cause the cue to race around the table, and maybe jump. You want to aim a bit toward the side you are breaking from, so from the right, aim a tip to the right on the 1 ball.
Vinnie said:
Vinnie, you are WRONG. Joe Tucker's book was revised, improved & include in it's entirety, in my book, "The GREAT Break Shot", by Charley Bond, published May 2005. www.greatbreakshot.com
The way you described this is a little confusing to me, but I think I know what you mean: aim to hit the head ball straight on from wherever you are, so there's no cut angle.
pj
chgo
In the book, Joe has detailed 4 breaks for 9 ball & 5 breaks for 10 Ball.
There are lots of facets about the Break Shot. The tables, the cloth, the balls, tournament rules, safety play, cue balls, Cues & so on... all of these determine your direction on the break shot. It's not just a shot to start the game.
There are lots of facets about the Break Shot. The tables, the cloth, the balls, tournament rules, safety play, cue balls, Cues & so on... all of these determine your direction on the break shot. It's not just a shot to start the game.
If you aren't jacked up, or hitting with a downward angle, you still might be hopping the cue ball because you are hitting the cue ball too high - even with a level cue. This will also result in the cue ball hopping down the table. And, as you know, if the cue ball hits the head ball on an "up" hop, then the cue ball will end up flying somewhere.
A common scenario for hitting the cue ball too high is being a "body" breaker (i.e., you move your shoulder, body, hip, kick a leg, etc. when breaking). In my experience, about 50%+ of people are body breakers meaning they use a completely different stroke for breaking than shooting, i.e., they use a power stroke that has body movement.
What happens in this scenario is that you are aiming at the center of the ball, but striking it above center due to body movement - usually the shoulder dropping. Even if your cue is level, if you hit the cue ball above center, you will end up with cue ball hop. And, the key is to hit the cue ball at the center. A way to fix this is to aim lower on the cue ball when you break (some people aim like they are shooting draw, but end up hitting center ball due to their body movement). A better way, in my opinion, is to move your bridge hand closer to the cue ball and use the same break technique you always use. Maybe move a 1/2 inch at first to see if that fixes it. If not, then an inch. If not, a bit more. Eventually you will get to the right distance for your body movement. Keep in mind, this requires (1) you already have a consistent breaking stroke, and (2) you are a "body" breaker.
-td
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Cool
Thanks for the info. I never would have found it without your help.
NOTE: For people interested in buying the book, you can find it at http://www.breakrak.com/Accessories.html
ceebee said:
Thanks for the info. I never would have found it without your help.
NOTE: For people interested in buying the book, you can find it at http://www.breakrak.com/Accessories.html