Box/Bridged Points

Boxed Points

I can tell from this photo the steps that I believe were taken to accomplish these. It looks as if the first two are "re-cuts" with rings added on after each. Then the v-spliced veneered points were put in giving a more vertical line vs. the obvious mitred corners usually found on these. The use of maple at the end was brilliant as you can barely see the lines. I have no idea at this point how people construct the boxes with the obvious mitred pieces above the wrap??

Anyone??

IMO of course.

Chris
 
Poulos Cues said:
I can tell from this photo the steps that I believe were taken to accomplish these. It looks as if the first two are "re-cuts" with rings added on after each. Then the v-spliced veneered points were put in giving a more vertical line vs. the obvious mitred corners usually found on these. The use of maple at the end was brilliant as you can barely see the lines. I have no idea at this point how people construct the boxes with the obvious mitred pieces above the wrap??

Anyone??

IMO of course.

Chris
Click to expand...

Which cue are you referring to, my JMW or the Searing?
 
That is correct....the Searing is not a full-splice. I included pics because there was confusion as to what a box/bridged veneered points looked like.

And yes, even in a short-spliced cue, it is a lot of work...but when done effectively, it's all worth it. It makes for a great impact in the cue's forearm.

Lisa
 
Those have been referred to as "boxed" points for a long time. Tim Scruggs/ Bob Frey did a nice one for me in about 1979-1980. I first saw the boxed style on 70's Joss cues. I've always liked that look, especially with 4 veneers and some tasteful inlays. I've been advised by more than one cuemaker that milling in the boxes around the bottom of forearm weakens the cue structurally. I've steered away from it for that reason on a pair of Searing Hoppe style cues I ordered many moons ago.

Martin


ridewiththewind said:
That is correct....the Searing is not a full-splice. I included pics because there was confusion as to what a box/bridged veneered points looked like.

And yes, even in a short-spliced cue, it is a lot of work...but when done effectively, it's all worth it. It makes for a great impact in the cue's forearm.

Lisa
Click to expand...
 
jazznpool said:
Those have been referred to as "boxed" points for a long time. Tim Scruggs/ Bob Frey did a nice one for me in about 1979-1980. I first saw the boxed style on 70's Joss cues. I've always liked that look, especially with 4 veneers and some tasteful inlays. I've been advised by more than one cuemaker that milling in the boxes around the bottom of forearm weakens the cue structurally. I've steered away from it for that reason on a pair of Searing Hoppe style cues I ordered many moons ago.

Martin
Click to expand...

Yes, I agree totally that this would weaken this area, however, I really don't see how it would do any more harm than flat bottom inlays and or points in this area. This area has always worried me when constructing cues with floating or flat bottomed points. At present my cues are built between centers so that the cue is not as large in diameter at the A-joint as I would like it to be. I am in the process of building a new CNC shaft/butt tapering machine so that I'll be able to have a compound taper on the butts of my cues. I like my joint size and I like my butt-cap size but using a straight taper I don't like my A-joint size.

Dick
 
zeeder said:
The boxed/bridged cue here looks like it might be full splice. You never know though.
Click to expand...

Doing it the full splice way, you need a bigger gap between the base of the points, which results in a more narrow point... but then the base veneers would have to be inlayed at that part which I believe does harm to the full splice contruction... another point is you gotta have a decicated machine for that to have the angles corerect all the time. Another thing is cuemakers I believe are more keen on having sharp points at bothe ends of the fullsplice rather than having a gap. Better of doin it with a halfsplice or inlayed cue.:)
 
ridewiththewind said:
This cue right here will be one of my absolute favs of all time.:D
Click to expand...
Every time I see that Searing, I want to hop on a plane, hunt Si down and . . . . .

beg him to let me hold it. I'm so pathetic . . . .:o :D
 
ridewiththewind said:
And yes, even in a short-spliced cue, it is a lot of work...
Lisa
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Dennis told me, it took 11 days just to construct the forearm, on that cue. He also said, that this cue is his favorite, that he has made.

Tracy
 
buddha162 said:
I'm sorry but I don't see anything on Bear's website depicting what Lisa's talking about.

I have seen ONE veneered full-splice with "boxed" bottom veneers...and that was on a full-splice tascarella. One of the prettiest cues I've ever laid eyes on, but IIRC the boxed veneers were not as clean and pronounced as the short-spliced White Zeeder is getting. I think it was more just squared off at the bottom splice, and the veneers met where they may...

-Roger
Click to expand...
Yeah your right...The pic I pulled up only showed veneer points, unless you scroll to the right...I am wrong, but like the posting of some nice cues...
 
"Dennis told me, it took 11 days just to constructorearm......"

I can see 8 days....1 for each set of points and 1 for each ring. That is if you only give the cue 24 hrs dry time before the point is milled. That is how I can envision this front being constructed anyways. still...a TON of work that was WELL DONE:)

Chris
 
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