Brand new Custom cue WARPED? what to do?

Snapshot9 said:
He said if it is 1/32" or less, it is okay. Anything over that is suspect.

If you had a PRO taper put on it, how much pro taper? Some are 13", some are 15". The 15" would more likely to show a little daylight than the 13".

Did you ask for a certain taper?
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What concerns me is the number a guy (cuemaker) comes up with. There should be some consistancy. At 1/32" (.031 thousands) the shaft will look lake a big bananna.

If a cuemaker told me that, then I wouldn't want him to build a cue for me. Remember this is a new $2000 cue.

Rod
 
Just thought I'd throw in my .02 here.

I just received a cue from a maker here. Told me right up front there was alittle wobble in the shaft. The tip never leaves the table however. When laid flat on a table and rolled, it rolls stright, but when I look at it from the side at the shaft, there is a slight wobble (if that is the word) to it, But it appears to be from the taper of the shaft not being perfectly turned, (i guess).

It doesnt effect the play of the cue as it is almost 5-6 inches from the tip and my bridge location. Thus it still plays stright and you would have to be loking at it from a direct eye level with the shaft to see it.

Now for what I paid for this (less then perfect cue) I would say it is still worth more!

Now If i ordered a 2k cue and one shaft was off like that, I wouldnt demand it fixed or anythign like that, I would explain it to the maker and ask if there is something that can be done. I would HOWEVER keep in mind, these are 100% custom made cues, no cnc, no mass production. There will be some variance between each and every part made. I guess the degree is what matters.

Me personally I love the one I have, and am already in talks on designing another one from scratch from the same maker. Important thing is if you keep it and shoot with it, FORGET about it! It will throw off your game just thinking about it.

jmo
Dennis
 
Wood moves, plain and simple. It's very common that a shaft may look/roll straight in one city but when it goes to another part of the country with a different climate, it may exhibit some roll-out or warp. That happens with every cuemaker's work.

Most playable shafts are straight....that is within an acceptable tolerance. They may move slightly or exhibit a tiny amount of warp within a tolerance of say 0.010-0.020". Shafts like that are straight, though, and will exhibit slight light variances underneath when rolled by themselves of a flat surface.

However, it's possible that the grain in your shaft is such that it may just prone to warp out more over time (ala "banana shaft"). For that reason you need to contact your cuemaker and explain that wou would like for him to take a look at it. You may ship it back to him, it sits a few days, and walla....it's straight again. If that's the case, it's probably a reasonably straight shaft. But if you are unhappy with it, he should make you another replacement. Good customer service.

I would also say this....if the expectation is that your cue or any cue will always have a 100% dead straight PERFECT shaft, then you probably should forgo a custom made cue and spend $150 or so on a Cuetec. If it goes out then the $ worry is minimal.
 
Easy decision. You will not be happy with this shaft so get it replaced. The cuemaker should not have a problem doing this if you are not happy with it.
 
I don't know if this works or not, but I heard this at a local pool hall. This guy Charlie was talking to Bill Ryan, who he had just bought a Bludworth off of, and was having the same problem. Bill said "listen I'm not shittin' ya, put a book on it". I asked the guy if it worked a week later and he said yeah. Lay it flat on the table with the gap showing underneath, and put a book, like a phone book or something, on top of it for a few days, or a week. This may take the wobble out of it. If that doesn't work, send it back, and tell him you want one that rolls straight just like the other one.
 
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I didn't ask for a special taper, just the one he usually uses. Somehow I would think that two shafts should have the same roll. Another thing that some people seem to miss is that when rolled separate, only the joint and tip touch so of course the tip never leaves the table. what does happen is that it bows to the point where the middle nearly touches the table then a half turn later it is proped up on it's two ends.

Can someone actually define taper wobble? I mean you spin it on a lathe, shouldn't it be consisten throughout? If the pro taper ends at 12 inches shouldn't the other side 180degree away also end at 12 inches? I really don't understand this taper wobble.

I think it's hard for me to get around a cuemake who's been around for over 25 years building a shaft with an inconsistent taper, but then again, why does the other shaft roll so straight? I also own one of his sneaky petes, that shaft doesn't wobble either and it's 12 years old. I can only conclude that it is either 1) warped, or 2)the wood moved. But then again isn't wood moving = wood bending = warp? When you get down to it one shaft is not as straight as the other. I just don't want to criticize this cuemaker, he does spectacular work. I don't want to insult him either.
 
????????????

Ship it back immediately tell cue maker shaft does not roll straight an would he please replace. While it is in transit i would call or e-mail an tell him the problem. I'm thinking you should recieve new shaft immediately with little discussion. I'm sure he will want more of your business. The majority of cue makers are some of the most reputable people in the business world. Good Luck


Pinocchio
 
Pinocchio said:
Ship it back immediately tell cue maker shaft does not roll straight an would he please replace. While it is in transit i would call or e-mail an tell him the problem. I'm thinking you should recieve new shaft immediately with little discussion. I'm sure he will want more of your business. The majority of cue makers are some of the most reputable people in the business world. Good Luck


Pinocchio
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Problem with that is that he may not use mandrels and may need the butt of the cue back to properly mate a new shaft up to. No need to pay double shipping. I suggest simply calling him (not email) and explaining the situation and letting him offer to make it right. Speaking about the issue is much more personable.
 
twilight said:
Can someone actually define taper wobble?
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If shafts are finished out by hand, then there may be some discernable uneveness in the roll due to the hand sanding. You see that more in used cues, though, where people haven't taken proper care of them. For the most part, shafts are cut down so close to finish size now (better automation methods) that there's little finish sanding required.

IMO, 'taper wobble' is just a euphamism for minor shaft wobble, which again is more the norm than something to be afraid of. 'Taper wobble' will not affect a shaft's performance.
 
Stand corrected

I totally agree with cueaddicts. When I think of shafts I mostly think of everyone using mandrels but I know there are some that don't. My Bad

Pinocchio
 
call him and talk to him.......

twilight said:
Hello guys, I need some advice on what to do. I just received a custom cue that cost over $2000 My problem is that one of the shafts is a little warped. I'm not sure what I should do. I mean it's brand new and hasn't been chalked. Should I say anything to the maker? I mean is it possible the cue got warped over shipping? Has anyone ever had this happen? what did you do. please advise, I'm having a dilema on whether I should contact the maker or not, but also how should I approach the problem?

I'd really like input from guys who deal with custom cue makers on occasion.
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i am new in the buisness and the same thing has happened with me........the guy called me and let me know about it and i made him a new shaft.... i was not offended, just glad he let me know and gave the oppurtunity to make it right.......everyone in here has made great points. keep in mind that i am new in the buisness so most of what knowledge i have is from other cue makers and not firsthand.......one thing i do know firsthand is almost every possible way to screw up. one thing that might have happened is that when the shaft is turned each time it is turned off of a center point on each end.....if when installing the joint pin or tapping it out you drill the hole off center a little it will cause this problem ......yes it could have warped in shipping.....the back of a ups truck is not airconditioned.........and the guy that brought up the point of humidity brought up a great point.......where is he located compared to you?........lets say he is in houston and you are in lubbock or vise versa ......... that would make complete sense. and then there is the question of if it is even warped..........don't know what to tell you there, very few shafts roll PERFECTLY straight so there is a margin of tolerance there. like anything else that needs to be within tolerance there is a gray area that would be a hard call, guess thats between you and him........but i would definatly call him and talk to him about it and see what he says.......more than likely he will replace it without a problem ( and if so as someone brought up you might need to send the butt back as well ) don't know of too many cuemakers charging $2000.00 for a stick that have just started out.......so im guessing he has been around awhile and has a good reputation or you wouldnt have spent $2000.00.......and im also pretty sure he didnt get there without standing behind his work and treating customers right. imo one phone call will take care of everything.
 
Rod said:
There is that word again, "define" Taper Wobble. My bet is a certain cuemaker come up with that fancy phrase to skate around a warped shaft. If it doesn't run true to the center axis then it is warped. How much is the question and should it be replaced? If so how much warp does it take for a cuemaker to replace the shaft?

It would be real interesting to here from the cuemakers on this topic and I think that question was asked over in that forum as well.

Rod
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What I, as a cuemaker, considers warped is irrelavent. If the customer thinks it is warped, then I replace it free of charge. On average, a person unhappy with service, of any kind, will tell 10 people. That's too many. I'll eat a shaft and have that customer tell his friends how helpful I was then have him mad and show everyone the "warp." Word of mouth is very important to my business.
 
If you ordered a custom cue from a cuemaker and when the cue arrives and you are not happy with the workmanship call the cuemaker and tell him your issue(s) and send it back......period.

Have him make any necessary repairs and/or replacement or get your money back....period.
 
hey guys I just don't think it's appropriate to name any names. I don't want to say any bad things about any cuemaker. That's just tacky. I only came here to ask for advice on what to do. Besides this guy would be on a lot of people's top ten of best living cue makers. I believe he doesn't make a cue for under $2000 either. That's why I'm not going to name him.

I appreciate all the advice and I think I'll give him a call. I'm sure things can be worked out.

I'm also not sure why someone would say I doctored the pics, I'm trying to get advice. Maybe I misunderstood. Here are more pics near the tip. As far as taper wobble goes this has a pro taper and should be consistent at least in the first 8 - 12 or 15 inches depending on the maker's preference. The next 4 pictures are of the first 6 inches and the shaft is rotated every 90 degress or as close as I could get. There is a post-it flag to follow the roll. If you watch the light under the shaft, you'll see ... something warp, taper wobble, bow, etc. whatever you want to call it. This is the least amount of wobble on the shaft. The bow starts nearly at the ferrule maybe as soon as 1/2 inch below. It would probably be best to save the pictures to your computer and view as a slideshow.

DSC01111sm.jpg

DSC01112sm.jpg

DSC01113sm.jpg

DSC01114sm.jpg
 
If it is in fact the cue you posted in the gallery, you have absolutely nothing to fear. Even the best wood, handled with exacting procedures can experience unintended movement -- due to a variety of factors. Any "top 10" cuemaker will know this, and won't bat an eye in addressing it. Wood happens.
 
i'm sure all you have to do is call the guy up and let him know one of the shafts has too much wobble... thats not unreasonable by any means. he'll probably be more than happy to replace it for you... most cuemakers have billions of shafts hanging around anyway.
 
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