Brand new Custom cue WARPED? what to do?

twilight

twilight

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hello guys, I need some advice on what to do. I just received a custom cue that cost over $2000 My problem is that one of the shafts is a little warped. I'm not sure what I should do. I mean it's brand new and hasn't been chalked. Should I say anything to the maker? I mean is it possible the cue got warped over shipping? Has anyone ever had this happen? what did you do. please advise, I'm having a dilema on whether I should contact the maker or not, but also how should I approach the problem?

I'd really like input from guys who deal with custom cue makers on occasion.
 
i would contact him most cue makers seem to take a lot of pride in their work.
 
What's the humidity where you are now?
IF it's below 40%, it might have moved.
When it gets back to normal like 40-50%, it might just move back.
Wood moves. They always will.
Now, pls qualify why you think it's warped.
Does it wobble when joined with the butt?
 
absolutely contact the maker. he'll probably tell you to send him the shaft so he can check it himself. if he finds something isn't right he should replace it no question. my guess is if he finds something wrong he'll want you to send the butt also so he can match the shaft perfectly to the butt.
 
What do people define as "warped"? Are you measuring it with something? Maybe the cuemaker won't think it's "warped" but you do. Defining the situation might help.
 
JoeyInCali said:
What's the humidity where you are now?

Now, pls qualify why you think it's warped.
Does it wobble when joined with the butt?
Click to expand...

humidity in my city is at 60%

one shaft rolls straight together and apart. No discernable wobble.

The other shaft is warped in a manner that when you roll it apart, the shaft is nearly flush with the table and a 180% turn will show a gap underneath. When rolled together the wobble is a tiny bit less but at one degree, it is still flush with the table, and 180% later, the gap is a tiny bit less.
 
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twilight said:
Hello guys, I need some advice on what to do. I just received a custom cue that cost over $2000 My problem is that one of the shafts is a little warped. I'm not sure what I should do. I mean it's brand new and hasn't been chalked. Should I say anything to the maker? I mean is it possible the cue got warped over shipping? Has anyone ever had this happen? what did you do. please advise, I'm having a dilema on whether I should contact the maker or not, but also how should I approach the problem?

I'd really like input from guys who deal with custom cue makers on occasion.
Click to expand...

How much is a little warped? Wood moves but if it's to far out I would definately send it back. Just went thru the same thing myself. It turned out to be a nightmare (more on that later). Any cuemaker should at least discuss your problem and offer to have you send it back for his inspection if necessary. If your not sure you could have it checked locally, a local repair guy could run a dial indicator on it to check runout.

Rod
 
It's not warped imo.
There might be a slight uneveness in the finish by the joint.
Mark where it has a " warp" when rolling by itself.
Join with the butt and roll the cue by the joint on THE TOP OF THE rail.
If you see that ferrule wobble considerably and it follows the mark you made, then it's prolly warped.
 
twilight said:
humidity in my city is at 60%

one shaft rolls straight together and apart. No discernable wobble.

The other shaft is warped in a manner that when you roll it apart, the entire shaft is flush with the table and a 180% turn will show a gap underneath. When rolled together the wobble is a tiny bit less but at one degree, it is still flush with the table, and 180% later, the gap is a tiny bit less.
Click to expand...

I'm an idiot, but it doesn't sound warped to me, by what you described. If I understand you correctly you are saying that when you roll the cue on the table, the cue stays flat but you can see light underneath the shaft as you turn it. Sounds to me like the cue(shaft) is straight but that's only the taper of the shaft. The cue (shaft) is still straight and not warped.

no-sho = no idea
 
ok how about this camera is stationary and the second picture is about a 180 degree turn. This shot is taken at the middle of the shaft. It might be best if you saved the pics then view them on your computer as a slideshow

DSC01109.JPG


DSC01110.JPG
 
no-sho said:
I'm an idiot, but it doesn't sound warped to me, by what you described. If I understand you correctly you are saying that when you roll the cue on the table, the cue stays flat but you can see light underneath the shaft as you turn it. Sounds to me like the cue(shaft) is straight but that's only the taper of the shaft. The cue (shaft) is still straight and not warped.

no-sho = no idea
Click to expand...

what i mean is that the light coming under one shaft consistenly even when rolled. THe other shaft when rolled, there is virtually little to no light passing through at one degreen then 180 degree turn later you see a lot of light pass underneath. Don't know if that cleared things up.
 
twilight said:
what i mean is that the light coming under one shaft consistenly even when rolled. THe other shaft when rolled, there is virtually little to no light passing through at one degreen then 180 degree turn later you see a lot of light pass underneath. Don't know if that cleared things up.
Click to expand...

IMHO; That's not warped. That is just the taper of the shaft or taper wobble. The cue (shaft) IS STILL STRAIGHT.

no-sho
 
hotdogg said:
Could it a be taper runout or taper wobble? Just wondering...
Click to expand...
not familiar with taper wobble could you explain? I find it hard that one shaft is straighter than the other, wouldn't the shafts have the same taper?

wouldn't the taper be uniform all the way around the shaft?
 
no-sho said:
IMHO; That's not warped. That is just the taper of the shaft or taper wobble. The cue (shaft) IS STILL STRAIGHT.

no-sho
Click to expand...

There is that word again, "define" Taper Wobble. My bet is a certain cuemaker come up with that fancy phrase to skate around a warped shaft. If it doesn't run true to the center axis then it is warped. How much is the question and should it be replaced? If so how much warp does it take for a cuemaker to replace the shaft?

It would be real interesting to here from the cuemakers on this topic and I think that question was asked over in that forum as well.

Rod
 
I'm of the opinion that you should contact the cue maker because generally, most cue makers will make their wrongs right. However, as the other posts in this thread have stated, there could be a debate as to wether or not it's really a warp or not. Lot's of factors like taper wobble, finnish inconsistencies, and a bad joint facing could be the cause. Even if your cuemaker insists that it's not warped, agree with him, but then show him the shaft that rolls true and ask him to make another that rolls the same way. Fact of the matter is, you have two shafts that roll differently right? Wether or not one or both is warped, taper wobbled or whatever, they both roll differently, so ask for two shafts that roll the same.
dave
 
What my cuemaker told me...

He said if it is 1/32" or less, it is okay. Anything over that is suspect.

If you had a PRO taper put on it, how much pro taper? Some are 13", some are 15". The 15" would more likely to show a little daylight than the 13".

Did you ask for a certain taper?
 
hotdogg said:
Could it a be taper runout or taper wobble? Just wondering...
Click to expand...

taper wobble? that's one i never heard of. maybe it's the term "wobble" .

if something is dead-on straight, then it will maintain the same relationship with the table no matter how you turn the shaft,,,,unless there's table wobble:). but almost all cues have some degree of "wobble" in them.

if you feel it when you play with it,,,then it's a problem. i'd try to forget the issue if i were you, because it might affect your subconscious....pick up a shaft randomly(so you don't know which one you're playing with) and just shoot. if the difference is noticeable, then i'd contact the cuemaker again. if the shaft picked up this "wobble" after it left the shop, playing with it might straighten it out, as many times shaftwoods have "memory".
 
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Regardless if it is "warped" or has "taper roll", if it isn't the same as the other shaft Id send it back and explain the situation.
You spent $2000 on a cue you deserve the right to be happy with your investment.
Going by the photos you posted, it looks like a rather large gap in the second picture. As long as those photos are not doctored, I believe most people would feel the same as you.
Now, who is the Cuemaker?:)
 
Roll? Wobble? Tick? Warped?

For a new and custom $2 Grand cue the shafts should be consistent and VERY close to straight.

From your pics it looks like maybe a 1/8 inch wobble. Regardless of the length and type of taper it shouldn't wobble as much as the pics indicate. I would contact the cuemaker immediately and send it back for his inspection and eventual replacement. He may request that you send the butt with the shaft to confirm it's not a problem with the facing of the shaft joint.
 
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