Break cue question

Stylez777

Stylez777

New member
I've always broke with a house cue. I'm stepping up to buying a dedicated break cue and I was curious if anyone had any opinions about the joint construction on a break cue. I've seen some come with wood, resin or steel. I know wood-wood usually gives a softer hit while Stainless Steel gives a harder hit. Also would steel joint be a better choice for all the high impact it takes when breaking? Anyone have a preference when it comes to a break cue or does it not really matter at all to anyone?
 
I think you will find that a phenolic joint will hold up just fine. I think the most important thing is the shaft taper and tip combination. A playing cue and breaking cue need to have two different tapers. Break cues typically have a shorter taper to reduce any deflection. Find a good hard tip that imparts enough spin to control the ball and not so much that you are drawing the ball all the way back the table.

Chris

Stylez777 said:
I've always broke with a house cue. I'm stepping up to buying a dedicated break cue and I was curious if anyone had any opinions about the joint construction on a break cue. I've seen some come with wood, resin or steel. I know wood-wood usually gives a softer hit while Stainless Steel gives a harder hit. Also would steel joint be a better choice for all the high impact it takes when breaking? Anyone have a preference when it comes to a break cue or does it not really matter at all to anyone?
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Break cues

Recently I purchased a Predator BK2 break cue as I've heard very favorable things about them. Prior to receiving the Predator, I'd been using a Stinger from Jerry Powers. Upon receiving the Predator, I broke with both cues for several hours to see if there was a distinct advantage of one vs the other. After several days of breaking with both cues I discovered both are very similar and I really couldn't say one was better than the other.

I've had several other break cues but in my opinion I'd have to say the aforementioned have been a couple of the better ones I've tried. I'm sure there are OTHERS that rival the two I've mentioned but I haven't had my hands on them. I understand Mezz and OB Cues have a couple good ones but I haven't tried either of them.
 
Depends on how much you want to spend. You can get a J&J j/b cue for under $100 which works fine, or you can step it up and spend $550 on a custom Steve Lomax j/b which works splendidly.
 
Get a Jerico Stinger

Or in the middle you can get a Jerico Stinger. Read me recent thread about his customer service, let alone that it is one of if not the best J/B available. Just make sure you get a Jerico Stinger not the McDermott Stinger, JMO!!!!!
Jerry Powers customer serivce is second to none, Nuff Said!
Dan
 
The only extra thing I'd suggest for sure is that you have joint collars on the cue. The ones I've tried that didn't all felt like they were "giving up" a little.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Buying a $500 break cue or a $100 isn't going to make much difference in my break. I break very well with a house cue as is. My question really had to do with the difference in the joints. Like take J&J break cues. They have a model 4410 that has a steal joint/collar by the pin and on a few other models it looks to be wood. I was curious as to how that would affect the actual hit on the break. Would the one with the steel collar be more sturdy over time be a bit stiffer and have a firmer hit vs the wood one?

While the predator, OB, Stinger all might be Awesome break cues I can't see how it's going to improve my break over a J&J or a cheaper model if I am already breaking well with a plain ole house cue so really can't justify myself dropping $400.
 
mdavis228 said:
The only extra thing I'd suggest for sure is that you have joint collars on the cue. The ones I've tried that didn't all felt like they were "giving up" a little.
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I totally agree with this. I'm pretty hard on break cues and have snapped a couple that didn't have joint collars.
 
I think all break cues need joint rings for strength. They don't need to be stainless as both types break fine. I also feel the flat laminated shafts are a little heavier and stiffer, which keeps the shaft on the cue ball and is optimum for breaking. With the heavier flat laminated shaft you have more front weight and less flex also. I like a real thin very hard leather tip for breaking. It gives a little more cue ball control than the phenolic tips do. Cues like these sell for $275 to $295 and are USA made.
 
good advice

cueman said:
I think all break cues need joint rings for strength. They don't need to be stainless as both types break fine. I also feel the flat laminated shafts are a little heavier and stiffer, which keeps the shaft on the cue ball and is optimum for breaking. With the heavier flat laminated shaft you have more front weight and less flex also. I like a real thin very hard leather tip for breaking. It gives a little more cue ball control than the phenolic tips do. Cues like these sell for $275 to $295 and are USA made.
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I find the style of joint will affect the stiffness of hit more than material as you said, but I've had wooden collared joints that hit harder than most every steel jointed cue I've played with. Follow chris's advice on the stiff shafts, a great taper for a break cue is a conical taper, its super stiff and stays on the ball well and deliver all its power.

Just don't fall into the group of people that think they need a break cue so they can break harder, thinking that the harder you can break the better your breaking is BS, sometimes you have to adjust to barely make 1 ball on a tough table. Thats why you want the thin leather tip chris mentioned, that phenolic and g10 is out of place and wrong for the reason that you don't smash the balls to get success, you methodically find where the balls are falling and exploit it, and keep the rock in the center of the table.

Use a break cue to your advantage, don't let it be a hinderance to your game, because it can and will do that if you let it.
 
That's so great info I appreciate it. I'm still not sure if I really want to spend 250-300 for a break cue. I' been checking out info on the J&J cues don't seem to be able to find too much info on the different model about what kind of taper the shaft is or what kind of collar etc etc. Seen bunch of people who like them used them and say for the money they are pretty good. Just not sure which model is the best to go with. I've looked at the Fury J/B cue also for a bit more but it's hard to compare construction of the fury to the J&J to see which is better bang for the buck.

My break form is pretty good I'll hardly ever miscue with a house cue, I can get good power and get the balls moving. I just want to buy something that is: lightweight, solid construction, has good energy transfer through out the whole cue, has a 5/16x18 pin since I have an extra shaft I'm going to put a samsara tip on so I can have 2 shafts one with a phenolic tip and the spare shaft with the samsara tip so I can have options when breaking and the cheaper the better :-)
 
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