Break Cue? Really??

I've read more than one cue maker saying that if you can't break with the cue they made then it isn't made right.

That being said. You might want to have a cue dedicated to breaking that you can put a hard tip on so that you don't harden up the tip on your playing cue.

And just to be clear, I've had a dedicated breaking cue for years. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.


I absolutely agree with this. A well made cue can be used to break. That doesn't mean it will break as well as a dedicated break cue. It just means you won't damage your nice custom cue when you slaughter the rack in 9ball.
 
I've read more than one cue maker saying that if you can't break with the cue they made then it isn't made right.

Sure.

All my players have Ivory joints and ferrules. You can break with them just fine.....but some parts of some cues are just going to handle the abuse a bit better and cost a whole lot less if they don't.

;)
 
I'l play...

I have a break cue cause it's another cue. How is there any arguement against having more cues ?

/end thread/

I'm lazy and I don't like carrying things. Hence the one 15oz cue in a flip-open case with a handle.. no chalk, no tools. :o

I misread that.. I do own one. I leave it at home in case my girlfriend ever surprises me with a table and it happens to be harder to break on.
 
I'm lazy and I don't like carrying things. Hence the one 15oz cue in a flip-open case with a handle.. no chalk, no tools. :o

I misread that.. I do own one. I leave it at home in case my girlfriend ever surprises me with a table and it happens to be harder to break on.

I roll one of 2 ways.

Full custom leather 4x2 case
Player (2 shafts)
Full Breaker
Dedicated Jumper
Bridge/bridge handle (Telescopic rod)

Or....

Player in a 1/1 vinyl tube case when I feel as you do. ;)
 
Great info...

I really am liking this thread. A lot of good points. Some with how I was taught and others with a different point of view.

BTW.... I do have more cars than The one in my Avitar! LOL

Also sounds like train of thought has changed in the last 15 years.
Now I did jump with my cue. I didn't know that break cues were made different... Guess some of this could also go with the newer golf balls go farther and more straight, drivers hit hard and sport tec on and on...etc

Again thank you for a different trains of though.....:thumbup:
 
I play with an LD shaft that is hollow for about 4 inches behind the ferrule. Do you think I'm going to smash a cueball on a regular basis with this type of shaft?

Maniac

If you do like I did, this is what will happen: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1353127164.904221.jpg
 
Maybe I am about to show Im stupid to some people but...

I have never had a so called break cue. I have had 2 shafts incase one got messed up. I have had two cues at the same event incase I wanted a change due to a table. I was told two differnt things... why would you not break with your cue? If it cant handle it then its no good anyway.. and other s would say it can mess with the tips on the cue.
I even tried the tips with the layer of what looked like rubber between the leather and the cue.

Question is, what reaaly is the main purpose of a break cue and if you really need one why not just buy a cheap Duffrin or Cutec for just breaking?
Open to all points of view, dont think there really is a correct answer unless a lot has changed over the last 15 years from when I really played alot... :)
If you have to ask then you probably don't need one

Pros:
. In 8 ball, 9 ball and 10 ball the break shot can be the most important shot in the game, and, the better the players, the more this applies. Investing time and money in a successful break provides measurable returns.
. Uses an extremely hard tip (90+ on the Durometer scale) for better energy transfer to cue ball resulting in more speed for same effort. Less effort = more accuracy.
. Harder tip on break cue will not mushroom, and, makes your playing cue tip last longer and maintain shape by not using it as a hammer
. Harder tip works well for jumping if you need a long 1/4 to 1/2 ball jump and like the accuracy of a full sized cue. Dedicated break cue gives you another tool.

Cons:
. Additional expense
. Need larger cue case
. Heavier to carry around a second cue

If you really want to take your break up another notch, use a low deflection break cue shaft like the Predator BK2 and the inaccuracies from any off center hits will me minimized.
 
break cues

I've read more than one cue maker saying that if you can't break with the cue they made then it isn't made right.

That being said. You might want to have a cue dedicated to breaking that you can put a hard tip on so that you don't harden up the tip on your playing cue.

And just to be clear, I've had a dedicated breaking cue for years. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.


My fast or hard breaks are not that good .
my soft break with my main player is killer.
that being said .
I agree with super green man every cue should stand up to being used to break with.
the only reason you shouldnt break with your main player is that it compresses your tip and makes it harder or mushrooms it.

there is another big problem is, if your main player has a short tip
I think there is a big chance that you might break a ferrule and possible crack your shaft.

Juicy girl
from what I understand most pros break with a cue that is the same weight or slightly lighter then there main players.

sounds like you and your husband really enjoy pool , good for you guys.

There are a few guys on our local league that are use a 27 oz break cues
I tried one out for about 10 or 15 breaks . It really didnt help much
all bust nothing dropped.

When I think about the weight of a break cue I always think of tennis or golf that at a certain point the golf club the tennis racket and the pool cue , if they are to heavy it slows down your stroke to the point of getting a weak break .

but breaking with you main player will make the tip harder.

breaking with a ld shaft . I dont know if most ld shaft would hold up.

MMike
 
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Also sounds like train of thought has changed in the last 15 years.
Now I did jump with my cue. I didn't know that break cues were made different...

Although advancement like anything have been made in recent years, the idea of using a different cue for breaking is much older than 15 years. I think the first cue I recall being made specifically for breaking was in the 80's but I'm guessing others saw something earlier.

I bought my first J/B cue (a Joe Porper) in the late 80's or possibly very early 90's. Joe advocated a stiffer shaft and slightly shorter cue than the popular playing 58" length. Per the Mike Sigel philosophy of break weights, I went with a lighter weight than my player. Sigel was the first for me to recognize the importance of specialized break features.

Freddie <~~~ hysterically speaking
 
For more than 20 years I used my McDermott D-2 to break with. But I often carried my JOSS in the Fellini with no break cue...and have broken many racks with my JOSS. I don't break with it any more simply out of respect for the old girl's age and "status" but she is well up to the task if called on I am sure. I just wouldn't want to ding her on the edge of the table or anything. Minor accidents like that can happen more often when breaking IMHO.

Recently I have been using a Jump Break cue I got cheap. I really like it and the thing smashes the rack with seemingly less effort than my old McDermott. I am looking at getting another more dedicated break shaft for it too. It's the first time I have been excited about such a thing.

I am not crazy about the combined jump and break per se...but it is serving well. If I were trying to get back in top form I am sure I would have a dedicated break cue and not a jump/break which I feel is a compromise. I have yet to try to jump with it in fact. On the very few occasions I have taken a jump shot recently I have just used my playing cue. I can jump just fine with my JOSS, my Huebler, and just about any other cue I have. Close jumps would call for my dedicated JOSS jump cue, but I haven't even really used it in a long time.


Why a break cue? Why not? :smile:


.
 
I use a break cue because at the end of my break stroke I am bending the shaft a lot, not like a 'U' shape but maybe half of that.

I have not idea if this technique helps my break but it looks really cool, impresses the ladies and scares small children.
 
On average, the Break cue shaft isn't tapered like the playing cue. This added stiffness automatically puts more force behind the cue ball, and it won't bend under the pressure like a player cue will. Something's always gotta give when you apply force to anything, when you apply force to a player cue, the shaft gives..but with a breaker, the cue ball gives.
 
Something's always gotta give when you apply force to anything, when you apply force to a player cue, the shaft gives..but with a breaker, the cue ball gives.

That is why you use your breaker if a bar fight breaks out. You want your adversaries head to give when you whack him.
 
cheap breakers

See my photo of an ld shaft that I broke with in post #26 and you will know for sure. :)

I am sure that didnt make your day.

40.00 cuetec put a hard tip on. works good for me,

There is one azer who his 12 year old son can shatter phenolic break tips at will.
MMike
 
the reason i don't break with my cue is not the tip but the screw hardware which u don't want getting bent or loosening up in any way on the threads, also using all that power can sometimes go awry and you might jam the but into the edge of the table denting it or the shaft .
another reason was advice i got from bob byrne that you get more action from a lighter cue as you can get it moving faster i break with a 17 oz and play with a 19 or 20

he tested it in his garage one day where he had a table being prepped that did not have the rails on it yet . apparently he had a few pros around and they took turns with different cues and bob jewitt measured the distance the balls traveled down the driveway and calculated the speed of the ball the best speed was about 28 mph with a 17 .5 oz cue all my cues have Keith hanssons black widow tips on them so theres is no way i can mushroom a cue tip (not possible with those extraordinary tips)
 
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Here is the bottom line::

IF YOU CAN'T BREAK AND RUN, OR RUN MORE THAN 4 BALLS AT A TIME, YOU DON'T NEED A BREAK CUE.

Simple as that. Why buy a break cue if improving your break won't improve your game? Players focus too much on stuff they don't need, like fancy inlays, ivory, and $30 chalk, when what they really need is just more practice running racks. You may have the best break cue in the world that makes 3 balls on the break every time, but if you can't run the remaining 6, why bother? Get your runouts down, then get a break cue that will allow you to make those runouts consistently.
I agree with this completely.Pool is in stages or steps,so forget about
stage 5 if your still at step 1.Learn the basics first and then upgrade
down the road.
I'm thinking some guys don't really want to take the time
to improve there game,in hopes of the next great pool product
to makeup for there lack of talent.
 
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