Break cue shafts

twal

"W"
Silver Member
I am a little confused when looking at break cues and why the shafts are not bigger in diameter.
Most are 13 MM, I wonder why not bigger in the 13.5 to 14 MM.

From my own limited understanding of science… it would seem to make more sense to make the shaft as thick as allowed.

Maybe I am looking at this incorrectly but my reasoning is the bigger the diameter of the shaft the stiffer it would be. This would translate into the least amount speed lost at impact from the tip to the cue ball.

I of course am assuming you have the same tip across the board.

Is there any reason to have a less stiff shaft when it comes to the break cue? Why?

I can only compare them to golf club shafts.
The stronger you are, the faster the club head speed is and stiffer the shaft you want.
The less strong you are, the slower the club head speed, the more flex you want in the shaft. The additional flex will aid the slower club speed and allow the golf ball to farther.
Think if it more of like a whip at the end and how it snaps.


So back to my question, is that why we see these shafts at 13 MM? To make them a little more whippy for masses?
 
You were correct in your thinking all the way up until your golf-club analogy.
The stiffer the shaft the more energy gets transmitted to the QB.
If the shaft flexes or buckles, that's lost energy.

Now if we were to swing the cue at the ball, your G/C analogy works.
All motion with a cue is straight-ahead impact.
Unless you get involved in a bar-fight. Then, different rules of physics apply.

Most people are totally lost on the dynamics of a break-shaft.
You seem to have a pretty good grasp.

KJ
 
Break shafts

A lot depends on the wood the shaft is made from and the skill of the player..
If a player is used to shooting with a 12.75mm shaft he (or she) might
not be comfortable with a larger diameter shaft. Also, is it to be a Pro or
Euro taper? In my experience a 13mm PH shaft has all the energy (power)
transfer that you need. There is no point in using a sledge hammer to drive a thumb tack.
 
I tend to agree that larger shafts break better. But you have to keep them within the comfort zone of the player. If it feels bad they will not like it no matter how well it breaks. I have sold many 13.5mm break shafts.
 
I guess I am not one who subscribes to the school of thought that you need to use the same weighted cue for playing and breaking, or for that matter the same size diameter shaft for breaking and playing.

Just my opinion, but I think one should use special equipment (as it is available) for each shot.

If BCA allowed four cues I would likely have a Masse cue as well.
Instead I have a break, jump and playing cue. All of these are specifically designed for those shots.

So back to the break shaft...

As I see it, (with everything else being equal - taper and ferrule and tip) it would seem to be an advantage to have the shaft of your break cue be as big as 14 MM.

I think QMAKER said that there was no point in using a sledge hammer to drive a thumb tack. But most of us are looking for that sledge hammer. We want more scatter of the balls, more chance of pocketing something and staying at the table.

Just like with every other shot, if the shaft ends up being too powerful it is easy to just back off some. It is harder to go the other way around.

So with all of this being said, what would be the down side of something like a 14 MM break shaft?

If it is too powerful I guess I am just shocked that more to make these at 13.5 MM or more.
 
Purple heart break shaft and cut it to whatever size suits you :)
Mario
 
I tried all kinds of stuff on my break cues over the years.

I had a "belled" ferrule at one time. The shaft diameter was 13.5,but it was a full 14mm at the tip,reverse taper. The shaft was eventually taken down to 13,but I still wasn't getting the result I wanted. I now believe the taper may have been a factor,it felt like that Jerico Stinger-type taper. Those cues are a fine product,but to me feel like a dadgum club.

My next break cue was a PJ Meucci,with a 13.5 shaft,standard taper and a black Future synthetic tip. It worked BETTER,but had the standard Meucci ferrule problem,they just wouldn't stay together. This was before Bill McDaniel introduced me to the original Aegis.

I went to a 1st gen Joss SP,and used it for 15 years,no problems other than 2 insert failures due to sketchy wood.

I also believe people don't want a break cue that performs perfect if it also feels uncomfortable to use.

You can go up in diameter,but feel like you should really lengthen the taper out in those cases. The stiffness added by more diameter offsets what you might lose with a longer taper,in my mind.

Tip and ferrule are also considerations. I'm using a Schon to break with now,and getting it done with the original stock tip. I'm going with the Samsara or Madman when it needs replacing. Tommy D.
 
Since Mcues brought it up...
Why Purple Heart wood for the break shaft?
I have seen that a few times.

Mezz also has the Ask core or Massarandba wood.

What wood characteristics are needed or desired for a good break shaft?

I guess I have always just had hard maple.
 
No cuemaker here but some food for thoughts, maybe....

there are many ways to break the balls, the hard hitters - I guess thats what you are loooking for in a break cue?

A break cue for a guy that splatters them like "butter" will not be a stiffer than any cue on the planet - sort of speak, imo anyway. Because to stiff makes the cb jump to easily. A very stiff cue like most 3c cues for a example have much less tip size than pool cues, let´s say around 12 mm or close, a very conical taper makes a very stiff shaft - that is if you use a good material, but from whatever material you use, bad/good etc it will be stiffer to use a conical taper then a long pro taper from the same material.Look at the pyramids, kind of strong...:smile:.

So a good break cue needs to have a bit of a flex to take care of the times you don´t hit the cb perfect - and when using all the power you have or close you will most likely not hit it perfect.

Look at Shane when he breaks, he seems very concerned to come in level with the cue at impact. He raises up but have the butt leveled. At least that what I see. So doing that he gets most of the energy straight forward on the cb, not down on the cb. Less friction - most energy forward.

I have played pool using my 3c cue for trying it out and it plays great, it´s a Lambros cue with a 12,25 tip and a very strong taper, shoots very ld. The negative about it when playing pool is that it´s shorter, the taper feels a bit odd when cueing and that it´s so strong that when you are elevating the butt, jacking up etc it makes the cb jump more easily.

I have a Lambros B/J also and I havn´t measured the taper etc but it´s the greatest B/J by far I have ever had. Mike is a good player and knows what to look for.

To put it like this, If it was a robot that was shooting it would probably be good to have a big shaft and a very, very stiff shaft to produce the biggest impact, less energy loss on the break shot but.... we are humans and we don´t shoot like a robot, we have our flaws, we put unintended english on the cb, we go down on the cb so it jumps to much etc etc.

For me and my break Lambros B/J works like a charm, think it will for most of us but we are different and one shoe doesn´t fit us all.

Btw, I´m concerned about the consistency, the impact and the result on my break. Not my speed. I´m not a hard breaker - when I try to hard - not that good:o. I also favor to break with my playing cue or a cue that is close to my normal specs, weights, balance etc. - Why make things more difficult.

My cue do hold up very good to the hard hitters though, my friend who is a former Junior world champion (long time ago now) and that is very famous for his break used it a bit and just like some of these guys that doesn´t seem to put much effort/muscle behind it wacked the balls pretty good. Haven´t heard that sound from my cue when I break:embarrassed2:.

He has actually made 11 racks in a row in competion and 13 in a row playing ring game - he´s a pretty good 9 ball player....:rolleyes:

This is my thoughts about a good break cue and not scientific facts, just feel and observations.

Regards Chrippa
 
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