Breaking questions

mvp

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been spending a lot of time studying my break with Slo mo apps. Here's what I've been seeing: 8ft table my cue ball lands about 1-2 inches from head ball (good scatter, cue ball comes off side rail to middle of table) pretty repeatable for cueball unless a random ball hits it. Moving to the 9fter still with an 8ball rack I'm getting the cue ball to it on the second bounce (about 1-4 inches away) with slightly less cueball Acuracy. But still middle ish of table. Now my question is: playing on a 7fter my break sucks! With the same stroke I'm hitting the rack with cueball in the air, usually sending cueball onto floor,so I'm forced not to hit them as hard to have ball on table before impact.

Now the questions:
1) does everyone reduce the break speed going down in table size?
2) is it ok to have ball off table almost all the way there? Can't visually see it. Slo mo only
3)bridge off rail or off table? 7-8fter I'm off rail now, 9fter off table near headstring to have ball land correctly
4) I'm hitting cueball 1/4 tip below center with flat as possible cue, should I go to center for a more rolling instead of flying cueball?
 
both tables play the same speed ? I notice i get different break patterns on slow vs fast cloths. As far a cue jumping off the table after the break it could be other factors as well don't just assume it's your break.
 
i agree with Jost, it may not be your break. There are so many variables in the tables, the cloth the rails the rack. Instead of looking only at what you are doing, try to find what works for that table at that time. Have at least 3 different locations and and off speed break for each location as well. I look for the break that opens the pack up the best. Unfortunately for me, some of my best breaks i come up dry on and get run out on. So now, i got a theory, any break that turns out bad and the table is a horrible unrunnable mess. That's your "safety break". It'll keep you in a lot more games. lol St. <never drybreak from the same place more than twice, and look closely at what your opponent is doing, and where, if he is having success>
 
It's very important to remember that the break is not about how hard you can hit the rack. It's not about brute force. If it was, the best breaker would be some "Charles Atlas" body type, but it's not. Players of all sizes, shapes and weight have great controlled breaks. It's about speed and timing, with a light grip. Ideally, the CB should never go to a side rail, unless it gets bumped by something else.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
 
It's very important to remember that the break is not about how hard you can hit the rack. It's not about brute force. If it was, the best breaker would be some "Charles Atlas" body type, but it's not. Players of all sizes, shapes and weight have great controlled breaks. It's about speed and timing, with a light grip. Ideally, the CB should never go to a side rail, unless it gets bumped by something else.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I break one diamond in from left like the bar box 8on break angle except hit headball full, the cueball hits one diamond under side pocket. And rest between the side pockets at center table. Hitting the side rail is the most repeatable I've found after recording 40-50hrs of break shots! I'm really concerned that I need to slow my stroke down on bar boxes cause cueball is more airborn at Impact when all my data says it needs a 1" or more of roll before impact. FYI I put all the balls in the rack in order, I started filming looking for patterns that may repeat from the same spot etc and then I got carried away with data lol
 
I break one diamond in from left like the bar box 8on break angle except hit headball full, the cueball hits one diamond under side pocket. And rest between the side pockets at center table. Hitting the side rail is the most repeatable I've found after recording 40-50hrs of break shots! I'm really concerned that I need to slow my stroke down on bar boxes cause cueball is more airborn at Impact when all my data says it needs a 1" or more of roll before impact. FYI I put all the balls in the rack in order, I started filming looking for patterns that may repeat from the same spot etc and then I got carried away with data lol

If you need to slow it down, then slow it down. Contrary to popular belief, you don't need to slam it as hard as you can to have a successful break. Sure you may impress your friends and the girls making a bunch of noise, but that is about it if you can't control the cue ball and the table.

I had several breaks in a couple tournaments I played this weekend. I typically use the 8 ball break and stroke it pretty good but even though I would make a ball or a few they were bunching up. So I took some off of it and had much better success with 8 on the breaks and making balls withe a good spread.
 
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