Brunswick GC 3 parts ??

Matt90

Matt90

Trust the Process
Silver Member
I have a GC 3 and was wondering what are the best rails
to use and where to get them . Also mine has the gold painted
corners and they are flaking off , is it possible to get the metal
corners and side pieces for a GC 4 with the brunswick logo on
them and use them on this GC 3 .Or is there a good looking paint
that I can use that will stay on . Thanks for any help
 
Matt90 said:
I have a GC 3 and was wondering what are the best rails
to use and where to get them . Also mine has the gold painted
corners and they are flaking off , is it possible to get the metal
corners and side pieces for a GC 4 with the brunswick logo on
them and use them on this GC 3 .Or is there a good looking paint
that I can use that will stay on . Thanks for any help
Click to expand...

Sorry matt..
the parts to upgrade to a gold crown are available as a kit from brunsiwick only..
the rails on a GCIII are different lenghts than a GCIV..the corner casting;s (mitres)are also differant size ..thats probly why they did them differant ..so we would have to by the whole kit...blinds are the same pockets are differant also...

Rubber replacement (super speed rails) is not that bad like a 100.00 bucks...
you can have the casting powder coated ...you just need to find someone with the right color or close...I upgraded 10 tables to GCIV's 4 yrs ago...hung on to the old parts for a while finaly found someone to by them..

the new rails dont have score counters on them ..we hate that...but we built some portable counters for the room for players to use when needed...
the kit cost me about 2500.00 each.. the new kits have some things i dislike but i felt at the time and my budgit it was the best way to go.
my GCIII stuff was 22 yrs old the rails had about 50 recovery's on them and they was showin the wear ... I sold 6 of the III's and I had 4 sets of them castings powder coated ...they did not have that bronze finish look so we had them finished with an hammered gold and brown finish that looked pretty good...(moved one since then and they still had no faults) ... if ya need more info put a message in my email here...leave your phone and i will call ya...Terry
 
Gc3

Matt,

I have been using k55 Championship Tour Edition rubber on alot of Gold Crowns that I have been working on. It plays good and seams to be holding up. Also the new Super Speed that they have been using on the GC4's seams to be doing alright to, I cover alot of GC4's.

As far as the corner castings go the ones off the 4's are completly differnt than the 3's. I have been getting them powder coated in what is called penny vein. It is basiclly a copper and black textured finish. We just powder coated all 21 tables at Stix Billiards in Rancho Cucamunga including the feet so everything matches, I think it looks better that the original finish. I will try to post pics later.

If you have any questions, just let me know.
Steve
 
tablemechanic. I thought the GC rubbers are K66 and not K55.

Anyways one of the nice things about GC3s are there are tons of them that have been scrapped. Pool halls take absolutely no care of their tables and they get torn up. Also when a pool hall closes normally a liquidator comes in and just lets some guys come in and rip them apart. This causes them to break slate and many other table parts. Which means the table will often be useless.

Usually if you can call around to local shops they'll have scrap laying around.

Powder coating works great. Our shop has a guy we use for that on the castings. The thing is the leg levelers are going to have to come off too so your table is going to have to be completely disassembled. That can get costly.
 
K55

Brunswick developed K55 for thier tables. The only other table I know that uses that profile is Diamond. K55 is over all larger than K66. The newer Valleys also are using K55 now. If you put K66 on Gold crowns the rubber will be high. You would have to recut the angle on the rail to make it work right.

Let me know where all those Gold Crown parts are. I work on them everyday and could use some spare parts.

Steve
 
K55 and K66 are the exact same nose hieght. If they weren't there would be different size balls used on K55 tables. The table deminsions will change but to my knowledge the nose height stays at 1 13/32"

If you need GC parts call Howard Taylor of Edison Billiards in Edison, OH. He is one hell of a guy and always has an answer.
 
Poolschool said:
K55 and K66 are the exact same nose hieght. If they weren't there would be different size balls used on K55 tables. The table deminsions will change but to my knowledge the nose height stays at 1 13/32"

If you need GC parts call Howard Taylor of Edison Billiards in Edison, OH. He is one hell of a guy and always has an answer.
Click to expand...
You are right, to an extent. ;) K55 and K66, denote the angle the rail is cut in relation to the slate. There is an 11 degree difference, which will make the nose height wrong, if used with the wrong rails. The two are not interchangeable.

Tracy
 
I've interchanged K66 with K55 and never noticed a considereable difference. Maybe I am missing something??? How is the angle different with respect to the slate? Thanks for the reply
 
Poolschool said:
I've interchanged K66 with K55 and never noticed a considereable difference. Maybe I am missing something??? How is the angle different with respect to the slate? Thanks for the reply
Click to expand...
Check this page out. Read the 3 part article entitled, "That's How the Ball Bounces", it explains it much better than I could. There are also illustrations that show the angles.

Tracy
 
Wow that man is very well educated. Thanks for the link... I still don't agree... Is he refering to a GCI only? The angle he says would have to be increased to 35 degrees? Thats a dramatic difference. I'll snap some pics the next time I put Artemis or Accufast on a GC (II for sure, It may be different on a I?). The nose height is exactly the same...
 
Poolschool said:
Wow that man is very well educated. Thanks for the link... I still don't agree... Is he refering to a GCI only? The angle he says would have to be increased to 35 degrees? Thats a dramatic difference. I'll snap some pics the next time I put Artemis or Accufast on a GC (II for sure, It may be different on a I?). The nose height is exactly the same...
Click to expand...


RSB has it right. The angle cut on the wooden rail determines what profile of cushion to use. Some older low end tables used a U-23 profile cushion. ALL cushions should contact the ball at the same height which is 1 29/64" or 1 29/32". I can't remember which at the moment. Using the wrong cushions will result in the ball striking the cushion too high causing a weak bounce or or too low causing the ball to hop as it comes off the cushion.
 
I just did a test... I put a piece of K55 and K66 flat on a table. I also put both of the noses at the same horizontal line(K55 is higher but on the same height with respect to the ball)... Both cushions are still flat on the table. How would the angle com into play?
 
Rubber angle

K55 and K66 profiles are completely different. K55 uses a 27 degree angle and K66 uses a 23 degree angle. So if you put k66 on a table that uses k55, the rubber will be high and the playing area will be a little bit big. If you put k55 on a table that uses k66, the rubber will be a little low and the playing area will be a little smaller.There is about 1/8" diffence in the size of the rubber to. K55 is bigger than k66. Brunswick uses K55 on all of thier tables. All of the Gold Crowns from the 1 to the 4 uses k55. Some of the antique tables use a different profile. If you lay k55 and k66 flat on a table and put thenm end to end with the top edge of the rubber in line with each other. You will see that K66 will be about a 1/16" higher than k55. The correct height of the cushion should be 1 13/32". U23 is used on a lot of bar tables.

Steve
 
SlateHumper said:
RSB has it right. The angle cut on the wooden rail determines what profile of cushion to use. Some older low end tables used a U-23 profile cushion. ALL cushions should contact the ball at the same height which is 1 29/64" or 1 29/32". I can't remember which at the moment. Using the wrong cushions will result in the ball striking the cushion too high causing a weak bounce or or too low causing the ball to hop as it comes off the cushion.
Click to expand...


The rail height is to be 1 25/64". I have and ADOBE file that wuold be good information re rail height and angle---but I am not able to upload it to this post. If you have any suggestions on how to upload it---I wil try.
 
K66 cushions are NOT interchangable with K55 profile cushions with out first changing the sub-rails to correct the bevel and add wood if going with K66 to replace K55 cushions;)

Glen
 
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