Building up a wrap groove

"Tommy"

"Tommy"

Registered
Hello Everyone,
I have a question for my fellow cuemakers. I am interested in different methods that are being used to build up the groove for a wrap. Lets say you take off a thick leather wrap and the skin you are replacing it with is considerably thinner. I know one method is using cotton gauze and slow drying epoxy. You would build it up more than your desired thickness and then sand down to a level smooth desired thickness. This method works well but I am curious of other techniques. THANKS
 
"Tommy" said:
Hello Everyone,
I have a question for my fellow cuemakers. I am interested in different methods that are being used to build up the groove for a wrap. Lets say you take off a thick leather wrap and the skin you are replacing it with is considerably thinner. I know one method is using cotton gauze and slow drying epoxy. You would build it up more than your desired thickness and then sand down to a level smooth desired thickness. This method works well but I am curious of other techniques. THANKS
Click to expand...

Bondo works
 
A technique that I have never used, but which sounds like the gold standard for this job, I saw recommended by cuemaker Mike Webb on this forum.

His technique is to apply a layer of veneer in the wrap groove as if it was a leather wrap, then recut the wrap groove.

A search on here should turn it up. He gave a great description of the job.

Robin Snyder
 
You can also laminate 2 leather wraps of appropriate thickness. One customer just did this with an old Hoppe cue where the wrap channel was .045. The wraps can be book pressed with white glue and then installed with contact cement or vice versa if you prefer.
 
Just asking a question here.............

Why not just replace the handle wood? The cost of two wraps should offset the cost of the new wood. plus the wrap groove would be correct.
 
SC02GTP said:
Just asking a question here.............

Why not just replace the handle wood? The cost of two wraps should offset the cost of the new wood. plus the wrap groove would be correct.
Click to expand...

Tom,

I have used Martins method a few times to replace leather when there was a very deep groove. Works great.

For installing a string wrap on a deep groove I use special packing tape that has reinforcement strands in it. I carefully pre sand the groove and test the layer thickness so the depth is correct.

After the tape is on there I lightly sand the back side of the tape with 320, white glue then string wrap.

Changing a handle is major surgery on a Cue. You need to re-taper the Cue and refinish the cue to match the shafts. Most cue makers will not take on a job like that and it is very expensive.

I have done handle replacements on a few high end cues that did not roll correctly and it is very time consuming. That amount of time and money is not justified for a re wrap job. Martin's double leather and the tape method can be done with out effecting the finish to the butt sleeve or the forearm.

JMO,

Rick
 
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carguy said:
A technique that I have never used, but which sounds like the gold standard for this job, I saw recommended by cuemaker Mike Webb on this forum.

His technique is to apply a layer of veneer in the wrap groove as if it was a leather wrap, then recut the wrap groove.

A search on here should turn it up. He gave a great description of the job.

Robin Snyder
Click to expand...


Thank you Robin.
 
SC02GTP said:
Just asking a question here.............

Why not just replace the handle wood? The cost of two wraps should offset the cost of the new wood. plus the wrap groove would be correct.
Click to expand...


This is the absolute last option and should never be done without talking to the original Cue maker if available. It's not just a cue and you read this forum. This kind of work is not for everyone.
 
jazznpool said:
You can also laminate 2 leather wraps of appropriate thickness. One customer just did this with an old Hoppe cue where the wrap channel was .045. The wraps can be book pressed with white glue and then installed with contact cement or vice versa if you prefer.
Click to expand...

This is an option except for? The problem still exist. Sooner or later, it will need to be addressed. So for now it's in the quick fix category not the repaired.
 
Michael Webb said:
This is an option except for? The problem still exist. Sooner or later, it will need to be addressed. So for now it's in the quick fix category not the repaired.
Click to expand...

Another option that always plays a role. Short arms and deep pockets. Labor is labor. I don't think I need to dwell on that issue.
 
Michael Webb said:
Thank you Robin.
Click to expand...

You get both THANX and praise from me Mike.
You shared a method with me that is the absolute 'nuts'.
I've done quite a few rubber wrapped Preds that way because you have to.
Rubber wraps.....are ya kiddin me ? I did one just last week for an AZer.
The front grv-dpth was total .125". Depth at the rear,.130".
I dbl. veneered it (8hrs btwn) and installed leather.
I was extremely pleased with outcome. I hope the client shares my glee.
Lol

Thanx Again Mike, KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
You get both THANX and praise from me Mike.
You shared a method with me that is the absolute 'nuts'.
I've done quite a few rubber wrapped Preds that way because you have to.
Rubber wraps.....are ya kiddin me ? I did one just last week for an AZer.
The front grv-dpth was total .125". Depth at the rear,.130".
I dbl. veneered it (8hrs btwn) and installed leather.
I was extremely pleased with outcome. I hope the client shares my glee.
Lol

Thanx Again Mike, KJ
Click to expand...


Absolutely anything, anytime my friend.
 
You know, I've considered that several times during the process of veneering a cue.
Obviously, if you come-up a few thou. short on your sides, you will definitely have a visible seam.
Conversely, should your sides run a little long and overlap, the seam isn't quite as obvious.
I guess what it comes down to is, do you have the confidence to know you can make the seam disappear,
or if there is a seam (somewhat likely) are you going to leave it there for the world to see ?
I've seen some masterful veneer work, I just don't think I'm quite there yet.

I just recalled a CM offering exceptionally low prices on cues he had built and AZers
were falling over themselves to grab one of his bargins. Turns out, the whole cue was veneered
and buyers were screaming after discovering.
I remember seeing the pics on here and also seeing at lot of seams. FWIW
 
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pdcue said:
Yes, Mike is a clever fellow:).

I almost hate to repeat this - but this method can also be used to satisfy the current
obsession for "wrapless" cues.

Dale
Click to expand...


So true Dale. Since I shared this method. I have had quite a few request to use a burl veneer and make the cue wrapless. My honest answer has always been and will continue to be. I don't need the aggravation.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I really like the veneers and bondo. If the groove was really deep I think I would try one of those. I believe I do recall Alex talking about bondo also. Double leather is always an option too I may have to try sometime. I think I'm going to build up a little epoxy. Seems that the depth isn't really off too much after further inspection.
 
I was wondering if you have produced any numbers yet that would give us an idea of the actual depth ?
This could possibly assist us in determining the best method and or mtrl to use for the build.
 
Bondo is heavy and should only be used sparingly, not to build up the full length of a wrap channel.

Depending on depth, I have wrapped the channel with linen and then sealed it with thin epoxy or CA. Then I apply the new wrap over it.
 
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