Buying a new cue

J

jburkm002

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Let's say you walk into a store that has every maker but their names aren't on the cue. You can't tell one cue maker from another. Let's for the sake of argument. Say they all are plain jane cues and one isn't fancier than the next. You are allowed 10 test hits with each cue. What do you look for and what would you do with the 10 test hits? Me I like to do draw shots. I feel if I can draw with the least amount of effort than playing other english shots should have equal results. I also want the right feel on the hit. No vibration.
 
10 test hits isn`t alot, but maybe all you need to find your dream cue.
I myself like the cue to be well balanced, just like its an extension of your arm.
I also don`t like my cues whippy but not overly stiff as well.
Just my 2 cents worth
Jeff
 
Can't believe you're asking this, the answer is obvious. You want a cue that hits a ton. Simple :)

Kidding obviously. I prefer a particular tip size; 10.5mm so let's say they all have that diameter tip.

I'm looking for a couple of things. Firstly is how well I can control speed with each cue. You can adjust easily if its not to your liking but I'd rather not have to adjust. Hit some stop shots, draw and follow and see how close I get to my mark on each of those. Then I do the same but contact a rail or 2. Whilst all this is going on I'm getting an idea of how the cue hits. I like a soft hitting cue, one that has very low vibration and you hardly realise you've hit the ball.

Lastly I'm looking at how the cue handles off centre hits. Not really looking for what gets the most action or what deflects the least, just looking for one that comes closest to what I'm used to.
 
you will also have to ensure that the cue is going to last, and that the building materials are good. a cuemaker built me a cue and told me to break with it. he says, if it warps within 6 months, he'll repair it free of charge.
 
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I like to try the "Earl" shot when feeling out a new cue...slight angle, below the side, 1/2" off the rail, shoot up the rail to the far corner, inside spin 3-4 rails back to the bottom rail. I also like to shoot into the side with a slight angle with inside to come back 2 rails. Then I shoot some straight in stop shots and some soft draws to see how it feels. I'm looking for the balance of the cue, power of the shaft taper, and feedback to my hands. If all feels good, it hits a ton. Then I've gotta like how it looks.
 
jburkm002 said:
Let's say you walk into a store that has every maker but their names aren't on the cue. You can't tell one cue maker from another. Let's for the sake of argument. Say they all are plain jane cues and one isn't fancier than the next. You are allowed 10 test hits with each cue. What do you look for and what would you do with the 10 test hits? Me I like to do draw shots. I feel if I can draw with the least amount of effort than playing other english shots should have equal results. I also want the right feel on the hit. No vibration.
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Always pick the pool cue that doesn't miss a ball. That is the one.:thumbup:
 
They say it's not good to try multiple cues at the same time because they will all start to feel the same and you won't notice the differences as much

Chris
 
cues

I would Blind fold yourself , Then have the sales man hand cues one at a time.
The ones that feel good put to one side, then have the sales man hit a few balls with each cue so you can hear the hit , and put the cues that have the best sound off to one side.
I know this sounds extreme, the point that I am trying to make is go by how the cue feels and sounds before looks and cost

Then You should take a few hits with each cue .
Put the ones that you like to one side.

From there I would go by were was the cue made and if you like how it looks and cost.
There are some cues that don't last, cheap glue or the wood wasn't cured, or for what ever reason there cues seem to falls apart.

MMike
 
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