Buying First Cue

drivermaker said:
And I have to disagree with this Celtic. I don't even know where you come up with this stuff about not wanting a SS joint. I have cues with every joint out there and the SS joint has as much feel as anything. You'll have a greater change in feel moreso from the TIP. Put an elkmaster on and then a moori or hercules hard and you'll feel some major difference, I don't care what joint it is.

I'd be willing to bet you couldn't even tell the difference between a 13 mm and 13.25. If it was a log and detrimental to the game, don't you think Dan Janes would have figured that out by now and done something about it?

I come up with this stuff simply from personal experience having hit with dozens of cues with various cofigurations and seeing that the SS joints almost always have less feeling and are often also more audible. This is the case no matter how tight you try to make them. I have compared cues by the same makers with and without SS joints (Joss, Predator) and always find the same thing, the non-SS jointed ones have more feel. The only company that ever made a SS jointed cue that I thought hit really good is Schon. For some reason they were able to make a cue that hit just great with a SS joint. I am not sure about there more recent cues but anything from 10 years ago with a SS joint I have hit with actually hit the ball sweet.

There is a reason that most top end custom cue makers dont use SS joints.

As for the tip size, trust me I noticed. I have seen 13.25mm tips and they stand out loud and clear as huge to me. I shoot with a 12.25mm tip, I also notice 13mm tips as quite large but the extra .25mm on a 13.25 will be immediately noticed by anyone who has shot alot of pool. I shot with a guys cue one time that was 13.25, before I even took a shot I mentioned how the tip was huge, he told me the size after that. Shooting with it with a closed bridge of course makes you aware of the added size, you can feel a microscopic dent in a shaft when stroking a ball, an extra .25mm on the shaft is very easy to feel as it makes the whole bridge hand feel different when stroking the ball. I also can tell different tapers when stroking the ball with a closed bridge, most people who play alot of pool can, including I am sure you DM.
 
Im going to go against the grain here and suggest the Joss over the Lucasi, but my experience with Lucasi was not a good one (I didnt play with them but I sold a few).

I will also give my standard recommendation of checking out Maddison Bob's cues before you went with either of the ones you are looking at.

Woody
 
Celtic said:
I come up with this stuff simply from personal experience having hit with dozens of cues with various cofigurations and seeing that the SS joints almost always have less feeling and are often also more audible. This is the case no matter how tight you try to make them. I have compared cues by the same makers with and without SS joints (Joss, Predator) and always find the same thing, the non-SS jointed ones have more feel.

There is a reason that most top end custom cue makers dont use SS joints.

As for the tip size, trust me I noticed. I have seen 13.25mm tips and they stand out loud and clear as huge to me. I shoot with a 12.25mm tip, I also notice 13mm tips as quite large but the extra .25mm on a 13.25 will be immediately noticed by anyone who has shot alot of pool. I shot with a guys cue one time that was 13.25, before I even took a shot I mentioned how the tip was huge, he told me the size after that. Shooting with it with a closed bridge of course makes you aware of the added size, you can feel a microscopic dent in a shaft when stroking a ball, an extra .25mm on the shaft is very easy to feel as it makes the whole bridge hand feel different when stroking the ball. I also can tell different tapers when stroking the ball with a closed bridge, most people who play alot of pool can, including I am sure you DM.


Most top end cuemakers DON'T use SS joints??? Who would that be? It's news to me. I think you better take a little refresher course in the Blue Book of Pool Cues to see what the most widely used standard joint is. Go through EVERY cuemaker listed one by one and if you come up with something different than that, I want to know what it is.

Let me say it again...feeling and sound has a lot to do with the tip. I have a Meucci Power Piston with an implex joint and an EXTRA hard Talisman on it, and two ss joint cues with a sniper and and everest and I don't even think I have to tell you which one is more audible. I also have two Herceks, one with ivory and the other SS. BOTH have a tremendous amount of feel, just different. SS or the lack thereof also lends itself to a completely different weight and balance. If you like a lot of forward balance and weight, it sure as hell isn't easy getting that in a non ss joint withouth adding weight somewhre that WILL deaden feel.

Sure, if you're using a 12.5mm tip day in and day out you'll notice a 13, and I'd immediately freak out over yours. But I use a 13 and the 13.25 in not horrible. It's in what you get used to...I have no problem going up a little to that, but I don't like going down much lower than 12.9 or 8.

In your case, it seems to be the opposite.
 
Why didnt anyone mention Action cues? If i am not mistaken they do have a very low deflection rating and a good shaft for a low priced cue.

Check out the Rings Series from Action, or even the sneaky petes.

Now Joss and Lucasi are also very good cues to start out with.

And yes the only reason you pay more for a cue is the looks.

If you are able to spend about 400$, Check out EricLeeCues.com and he has some Schon cues. Which are the best production cues made. I belive he can get a Schon STL 1 for about 400$ he is a AZ member too. But email him and check with him.

dave
 
Regarding the SS joint debate...

Maybe they do feel "stiffer" but I like that feeling! Don't discount a good Joss or Schon before you try one. :cool:
 
Have you checked out Viking? They're a respected production cuemaker that offers several good cues for under $200. Included in that price are options such as wrap and stain colors, and you can also spend about $20 more for the joint of your choice. My first cue was a Viking, and I wouldn't hesitate to play with one again.
 
drivermaker said:
Most top end cuemakers DON'T use SS joints??? Who would that be? It's news to me. I think you better take a little refresher course in the Blue Book of Pool Cues to see what the most widely used standard joint is. Go through EVERY cuemaker listed one by one and if you come up with something different than that, I want to know what it is.

You beat me to it on this one.
Let's see. Hercek, Schick, Szamboti, Searing, Tascarella, etc...

Some don't like them but most use them.

Koop
 
Celtic said:
I dont agree with that at all. The thicker shaft will be easier to avoid unwanted english due to the tip size but there is no way that it will affect the pocketing of balls in a positive way. The smaller shaft is more accurate for potting, try playing snooker with a 13mm tip compared to a 11mm tip with the small balls, you will quickly figure this out.
Here in Memphis I dont know anyone who uses a snooker cue to play golf, snooker whatever and they do OK. But I wouldnt recommend a skinny shaft for a novice player, also what the heck is potting?
 
Hey

puckdaddy said:
Here in Memphis I dont know anyone who uses a snooker cue to play golf, snooker whatever and they do OK. But I wouldnt recommend a skinny shaft for a novice player, also what the heck is potting?


potting = pocketing
 
New Meucci

I have a Meucci cue for sale, one of kind, bought from bob Meucci himself in Pa at superbilliards expo. 4pt ebont, and ivoty rings, very attractive. I am asking $400, will negotiate.
 
Sorry to get off topic but I have had this http://www.billiardswarehouse.com/cues/lucasi/lucasi_le46.htm lucasi since december.
The other day when I was playing with it, it made a rattling noise rattled. It tends to do this once in a while so I thought nothing of it and tried to screw it back in. The problem was that it didnt stop while I was twisting it. It doesn't really tighten up any more and the joint makes a loud noise whenever I shoot. Is there any way I can get this fixed? and how much do you think it will cost?
 
1st Cue on a budget...

I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest Fury...

I bought a Fury DL 9, (yes DL), for $88 a couple of years ago, ($92 now), straight, solid, SS Tru-Loc joint. It hits great, I carry it as a spare on League Night, everybody has played with it at one time or another, never had a complaint!

They are available here, they have three lines, $92-$412, and even Sneaky Pete's for $149-. Entry line is all Decal, Mid line is a mix of Decals & Inlay, w/Pro Taper, Top line is all Inlay w/Pro Taper. Best & Least amount of $$$ I've spent on a cue.

http://cuesight.com/pool-cues-fury.html


Cue Of The Week


http://www.cuesight.com/poolcueofweek.html

My 2c-
 
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