There’s more to making a cue play and hit like you want it to, from the first stroke to your last stroke on any attempt to play.
This applies to any cue from $15 house cues with any kind of tip that they chose to have on the cue, to the finest custom cues out there, with your choice of tips.
See Bob Meucci’s cue tip video. He explains and demonstrates the deformation of soft tips and why to use the hardest tips out there.
On some strokes, the deformation doesn’t return to its normal shape and must be reformed prior to the next stroke or you don’t have any idea what part of the tip will contact the cue ball.
I have used many drill bits and can properly grind the correct drilling angle(about 12-1/2 degrees) onto any drill bit. Use the angle of a half inch drill bit to pound the chosen tip to the hardest angle that you like around the outer edge of the cue tip leaving the center three mm of the tip to be the softest part of the cue tip.
I, personally choose the single layer leather LePro cue tips that are starting about R74.
I use a flat cue tip steel shaper to pound the outer angle to the hardness that I desire which is to make the LePro tip about the same hardness as the water buffalo tips which are about R80 or so.
I then shape the tip to about a dime radius and flatten the center three mm with a small flat bastard file.
That flat center and the angled 1/4mm are the only part of the cue tip that ever touches the cue ball.
There will be no mushrooming of the tip, either.
Single layer tips can be prepared to take chalk with a tip pick.
Multi layer tips do not allow for use of a tip pick unless you intend to keep peeling tip layers off.
The entire process of hardening any tip correctly requires about 15 minutes.
More about cue tips later, maybe.