center to center, center to edge with shift and pivot

LAMas

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
How to cut 0, 9.5, 19.5, 30 and 42.2 degrees:

Center to center = 0 degree

Aim center CB to center OB, shift 1/2 tip left and pivot right to CCB = 9.5 degree cut

View attachment 356212

Aim center CB to edge OB, shift 1/2 tip right and pivot left to CCB = 19.5 degree cut

View attachment 356213

Cte = 30 degree cut

Aim center CB to edge OB, shift 1/2 tip left and pivot right to CCB = 42.2 degree cut

View attachment 356214

This is geometrically correct for CB to OB separation of 12" and CB to bridge separation of 12".

Move bridge closer or farther relative to CB for other angles in between.

Move bridge farther back for greater separations between the CB and OB.

To be continued?:smile:
 
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So, you are sighting down the center of the cue stick from the butt going to the tip?

I've never been able to get my eye on the same level and position as seen in the drawing.
 
So, you are sighting down the center of the cue stick from the butt going to the tip?

I've never been able to get my eye on the same level and position as seen in the drawing.

Simple, duckie. It's a very, very short cue (perhaps a jump cue), held with the same grip for a dart stroke.

:p
-Sean <-- yeah yeah, that's the ticket
 
So, you are sighting down the center of the cue stick from the butt going to the tip?

I've never been able to get my eye on the same level and position as seen in the drawing.

Jesus Christ, man. If you're going to be a dick when someone posts something that isn't what YOU choose to use, then at least make an attempt at being accurate with your candid insults.

It's very obvious that the eye in the diagram is over the shaft of the cue, and not at the butt as you seem to think.
 
I don't know how to put this more delicately, I do not mean to offend you so please keep that in mind.

I do not understand what use this system can have? If you allready know the angle, why even bother with the pivot? Would it not be easier to memorize a stick aimpoint to the object ball or cue-ball-object ball overlap for that angle?

The beauty of most pivot systems is that you can at least partly "forget about" the angle and let the system do the work. With this system you have to not only know the intended angle, but exact pivot bridge lengths, distances etc. Maybe I'm being unfair to you, I did enjoy your post, and I will try this system later today to examine any possible benefits I may have overlooked, but as it is I can't see any.
 
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I don't know how to put this more delicately, I do not mean to offend you so please keep that in mind.

I do not understand what use this system can have? If you allready know the angle, why even bother with the pivot? Would it not be easier to memorize a stick aimpoint to the object ball or cue-ball-object ball overlap for that angle?

The beauty of most pivot systems is that you can at least partly "forget about" the angle and let the system do the work. With this system you have to not only know the intended angle, but exact pivot bridge lengths, distances etc. Maybe I'm being unfair to you, I did enjoy your post, and I will try this system later today to examine any possible benefits I may have overlooked, but as it is I can't see any.

Thanks for your constructive post to this thread.

Many years ago now, I was fascinated with the utility of the pivot as I read what Hal (RIP) proffered. I didn't find it as simple as DD, contact to contact or eclipse aiming that I was then and am now using, but I can visualize the contact point on the OB and use that ability with these non pivot systems.

I can also see the included angle created by the line passing through the OB to the pocket/target and the line from the CB to where I imagine the GB should be. If that angle is near 30 degrees, I aim the center of the CB at the relevant edge of the OB and adjust for CIT.

On thin cuts greater than 30 degrees, I cannot use the equator of the OB for a spot to aim at for I would be aiming at an imaginary spot or line on the cloth. For these thin cuts, I was hoping that pivoting away from the edge of the OB would be another way to aim to augment the methods above that I use.

At the table, I realized that a constant 1/2 tip offset and pivot that works when the CB and OB are 12" apart doesn't work when the separation is 24" or 36" etc.

In another thread, it was hoped that someone could prove that CTE could be proven by geometry or algebra or math and I conclude that it can, but the variables are legion...where to place the bridge behind the CB to get effect the same included angle accomplished at 12" for the other separations. It can be done but it would take many diagrams and who would use them?

Be well:thumbup:
 
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center to center, center to edge with shift and pivot
Sounds like a dance class.
OK I'm out of here.
 
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